2012.12.31After returned to the main road, B144, we were leaving Serengeti National Park and entering Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Along the rugged road that we came three days ago, we arrived at Ngorongoro Crate at 9:30am.

Ngorongoro Crate was created by the volcano eruption and collapsion 2 to 3 million years ago. The original volcano could be as high as 19,000 feet. Today, it is the largest and the best preserved volcanic caldera in the world. Visitors can only enter the crater from the north entrance and are allowed to stay up to 6 hours on the crater’s floor.

Overlook Lake Makat in Ngorongoro Crater from the north entrance

Drive down to the floor of Ngorongoro Crater from the rim, which is 2000 feet above the floor. Stopping during descending is prohibited.

Because of the large size of the crater and the natural enclosure created by the volcano caldera, Ngorongoro crater forms its own ecosystem. For 25,000 large animals living inside the crater, mostly ungulates, don’t leave the crater in their whole lives; but some, for example, a portion of wildebeests, zebras and buffaloes, do migrate according to the season. The major animals that are missing in the crater are impala, giraffe, cheetah and leopard.

Zebras, Ngorongoro Crater

Lesser Flamingos on Lake Makat, a seasonal salt lake in Ngorongoro Crater

Buffaloes, Ngorongoro Crater

Hyenas, Ngorongoro Crater

A species that is critically endangered and can be found within the crater is the black rhino. We were very lucky to see one of them, although in a very far range. The population dropped rapidly because of poaching activities. The government has to take serious steps to protect endangered species. We often saw armed rangers patrolling the area.

A black rhino in very far range. It looked white because of mud on the body. Ngorongoro Crater.

A adult male lion in Ngorongoro Crater

The sheer size of the crater and the panorama view of the caldera wall are overwhelming. We roamed around for 3 hours within the crater, then we ascended from its east wall, drove a quarter of the cycle and returned to the south entrance.

Panorama view from the floor of Ngorongoro Crater

The crater has its own weather – sunshine and storm in Ngorongoro Crater

We’d still have almost 10 hours before our flight took off. On our final leg, we drove through all the great places we have been to. A while after we descended from the Rift Valley, a typical early afternoon thunderstorm came and lasted for about an hour. As we turned to the road to Arusha, the rain stopped. It looked like nothing would prevent us from having a very smooth trip.

Tanzania’s Staple Food – Bananas, Mto wa Mbu near Rift Valley

Maasai’s village, near Arusha

Maasai’s market, near Arusha

Rainbow over North Tanzania plains, near Arusha

Things started happening after we stopped to take pictures for this beautiful rainbow. The car just couldn’t start. It’s only 30 to 40 miles from Arusha. Justin called the office but they didn’t have a car immediately available to take us. We anxiously waited in the car for 40 minutes, luckily another car of the same company passed by and the driver must be more experienced than Justin. He in fact removed something from the car under the hood then the car just started fine. Right before we enter Arusha city, the rare-left tire got flat. We had backup, so we got off the car and Justin changed tire. It’s almost 6pm now. The city streets were just jammed. After we finally drove through Arusha and left all the noise behind, it already passed 7pm. Although we knew that we’d still have enough time, everyone couldn’t help getting a little nervous, because it’s getting dark, another car problem would cause us missing the flight.

In the end, nothing happened. We arrived at the airport at 8:30pm. The only thing we probably missed was, if without those issues, we’d have a good chance to see Mt. Kilimanjaro on our way to the airport. What we had seen actually was the dimmest hint of the mountain body, which we couldn’t even convince ourselves. We thanked Justin for his wonderful work and said goodbye to him. We would have a long trip back home.

We had a great safari trip that is much exceeded our expectations. We knew we would visit great national parks and see wildlife, but we didn’t expect wide variety of landscapes, including lakes, forest, mountains, endless flat plains and rolling savanna, and rich history of natural environment and human kind. With the world-class safari lodges, we were able to experience all these wonders in comfort. Northern Tanzania is one of our dream destinations and we had our dream come true.

2012.12.30~31The road run straightly towards southeast as we were driving to Naabi Gate. Wildebeests and zebras spread on both sides of the road as far as the eye could see. We were in the middle of Serengeti’s great migration.

The migration is the yearly movement of as many as 1.5 million wildebeests around Serengeti plains, covering more than 1000 miles. Large numbers of other animals, especially zebras, gazelles and impalas travel with them. Driven by where the rain and fresh grazing is, the annual pattern of the movement is largely predictable. At the end of the year, the herds primarily gathered at the short-grass land of Southern Serengeti, Ndutu and part of Ngorongoro Conservation Area.

Wildebeests in migration, Serengeti National Park

Grant’s Gazelle, Serengeti National Park

Wildebeests in migration, Serengeti National Park

Mountain Zebras in migration, Serengeti National Park

Wildebeests in migration, Serengeti National Park

We arrived at Naabi Gate at 12 pm and we climbed to the top of the Naabi Hill again. Two days ago, nothing could be seen on the Southern Serengeti plain, now animals in migration were all over around us.

Overlook Southern Serengeti and animals in migration from Naabi Hill

The early afternoon storm approached us from the east. We returned to the car, had our lunch while waiting for the rain to move over us.

Storm is approaching Naabi Hill, Serengeti National Park

Not very far after passing Naabi Gate, we went off the road to the south. Because we booked our trip too late, no hotel on the rim of Ngorongoro Crater could be found. We would stay overnight at Lake Ndutu area. The storm left a mess on the grass plain. Justin had to drive carefully to not to get stuck in the mud puddles.

Mountain Zebra, Serengeti National Park

After an hour and a half, the short grass plains gave away to the woodlands. In fact, Ndutu area is a primary location for wildlife watching during migration, not only because of the lake as the water source, but also the woodlands keep wildebeests and zebras safe from their predators. During January and February, about quarter of wildebeests (300K to 400K) give birth within a short window of two or three weeks. Although this synchronized birthing seems to be a feast for predators, actually they are quickly becoming satiated so that eventually more calves survive.

It took us some time to find our camp, Ang’ata Migration Camp. The camp sits on the high land of the rolling savanna overlooking Lake Ndutu. At check-in, the staff told us that the waste is first processed by chemicals in the bucket in tent’s restroom, then “after you’ve done your business, we will take your business to the business center and they will be buried underground”. It’s a quite humorous way to explain an unpleasant fact.

After some rest, we went out for a game drive around the region. Lake Ndutu is a good place for bird watching.

Bateleur Eagle, Lake Ndutu

Black Kite, Lake Ndutu

We carefully tried to avoid crossing the lakebed because it’s too muddy until Justin got calls from other guides reporting that they saw a leopard on the other side. As we arrived to the spot, there were already 5 or 6 cars. It seems to be a baby leopard, but we were able to get quite close only about 30~40 feet.

A small leopard resting on the branch, Lake Ndutu

We were joined by some professional photographers and their upgraded jeeps, Lake Ndutu.

On our way returning to the camp, we saw two giraffes fighting as others passed by. The two literally threw their necks to each other, collided and tangled together. It’s hard to imagine that the animal so elegant whose fight can be so brutal. What we saw was just a gentle skirmish.

Giraffe fight, Lake Ndutu

We had a nice dinner with fried tilapia. When they were introduced into China, it’s called “Africa Carp“, but we didn’t know that they indeed came from Africa.

The second day morning, we left the camp at 7 am. Ang’ata Camp is located in the middle of the woodland, we have seen giraffes and elephants very close to the tents. Justin said that we had just been visited by a lion in the morning. It seemed that animals were moving into the area.

Ang’ata Migration Camp in sunrise, Lake Ndutu

Migration, Lake Ndutu

As we returned to the short-grass plains, we were surrounded by thousands of thousands of wildebeests. No obvious leaders, they were all walking towards the Lake Ndutu direction, seemingly knowing there would be fresh grazing waiting for them. Indeed, clouds had been gathering over the southern sky. The wildebeests just know the rain is coming. They have done this for millions of years.

Wildebeests in migration, Near Lake Ndutu

Wildebeests in migration, Near Lake Ndutu

Hyenas, Near Lake Ndutu

We returned to the main road, B144. Our last stop was Ngorongoro Crater.

2012.12.28~30We reached Naabi Gate at 3:20 pm. This is the southeast entrance of Serengeti National Park. The gate is built next to the Naabi Hill. Unlike most other Kopjes in the Serengeti plains, visitors are allowed to walk off their jeeps and climb the hill. When Justin went to the office to check in, we walked the trail up. It’s an ideal vantage point to view the surrounding area from the top of the hill. Southern Serengeti is a vast and seemingly endless grassland, not even a single tree can be seen. The migration had not reached here yet. The total nothingness was quite a surprise to us.

Endless grassland in south Serengeti, the entrance of Serengeti National Park.

Leaving Naabi Gate, the road run straight towards northwest. Driving about half an hour, we saw more than ten cars stopped at the road side. There was a female cheetah by herself at around 200 feet from us.

A female cheetah at Serengeti National Park.

We had a game drive on our way to the camp. It’s been all gravel roads since we left Ngorongoro. We had to take three German girls with us because their car got a flat tire. We should help each other in the wild, but it’s not very convenient when all five adults trying to stand up to watch animals in a mid-size car.

Saddle-billed Stork, Serengeti National Park

Grey-crowned Crane, Serengeti National Park

We got to our camp, Ang’ata Camps, at 7 pm. The camp has about 8 to 10 tents. In the center, one bigger tent is used as the dining room, a smaller one is decorated like a living room with a small library in it. Compared with where we lived at Tarangire and Lake Manyara, Ang’ata Camps is much less luxury, but Serengeti is also much further from the city, one should feel fortunate to have a comfort place to spend the night.

At first, we were curious about the pair of buckets hanging high outside of each tent. In fact, in order to provide hot shower for visitors, the staff of the camp have to cook the water with a big pot in a central area; then two workers carry the pot to each tent and pour the hot water into one bucket and the cold water into the other. The water flows into the tent after mixed. It’s not easy to offer these services in an environmental-friendly way in such a remote place. Of course, they charge the premium too.

Our tent in Ang’ata Camps, Serengeti National Park

We started our game driver on the second day at the early morning. Southern Serengeti plain sees more animals in the wet season.

Hartebeest, a species of antelope that can only be found in Africa, Serengeti National Park

Baboon troop – baboon’s hierarchical social system, Serengeti National Park

Hippo pod – although they huddle closely, hippos are not social animals, Serengeti National Park

Crocodile, Serengeti National Park

At around 10 am, someone called Justin over the phone and apparently told him there was something interesting somewhere. When we got there, we saw at least 30 jeeps around a kopje. There was a female leopard with her two cubs on the kopje. Leopards are good climbers. They spend most of time stay on the tree branches or hills. This time, she seemed didn’t like to be surrounded by so many bystanders and worried about her cubs safety, so she kept her cubs around and carried them in her mouth and hid them behind rocks.

A leopard with her cubs, Serengeti National Park

We watched the leopard family around the kopje for half an hour. It started drizzling from time to time. Continue on our game drive, we saw two young lions sitting in the underbrush, one male and one female. Interestingly, giraffes and antelopes could be seen not very far behind them. Because lions were out of their flight zone, these animals didn’t seem worried at all.

Young lions with a giraffe in sight, Serengeti National Park

Young lions, Serengeti National Park

As we on our way back to the camp for lunch, the cloud started gathering in the sky. A huge thunderstorm was upon us.

Game drive in a rainy day at Serengeti National Park

After our lunch, as we were about to leave for afternoon game drive, the rain started pouring. I hadn’t seen such heavy rain for long time. The rain, like a curtain, hung outside the tent. It’s all looked blue and dark outside. The cloud was so thick, it looked like the night had fallen. Sometimes, the sky at distance showed some hints of light and gave us hope that the rain was about to stop, but soon the light gave up and the dark side took over again.

Ang’ata Camps after the heavy rain, Serengeti National Park

Seronera area after the thunderstorm, near Ang’ata Camps, Serengeti National Park

At 5 pm, the rain finally stopped after 3 hours. We didn’t have much time and we didn’t want to get stuck in the mud either, so Justin decided to take us for a short drive to Seronera Information Center. Seronera information center and the wildlife office sit next to each other on the kopje, surrounded by large candelabra trees. The center holds an open exhibition that explains Serengeti’s ecosystem.

Candelabra trees around Seronera Information Center, Serengeti National Park

We were shocked by many huge rodent-like animals all over the place. They are hyraxes – in fact, more closely related to elephants. Can you imagine that? Hyraxes here had become very used to humans. The were at every corner, on every tree and made the huge noise.

A tree hyrax eating leaves in Seronera Information Center.

We had a short excursion before retreated to the camp. Unlike more luxury camps in other parks, Ang’ata Camps doesn’t have a dinner menu. The dinner has a soup, 2 or 3 main dishes, usually chicken and veggies, in large panes, and bread and rice.

Buffaloes, Serengeti National Park.

We checked out Ang’ata Camps the third morning. During our stay, we met another Chinese visitor, who happened to be one of two leading actresses in a famous movie series in China 30 years ago. What surprised me was, although she married to an American, her two sons spoke fluent Chinese.

Sunrise over Serengeti National Park.

We continued our game drive on our way leaving the park. We met another troop of baboons. Adult baboons are powerful animals. They are very terrestrial. One of the males showed off his teeth to warn us.

Mother and son, baboon, Serengeti National Park.

Powerful jaw and sharp teeth, baboon, Serengeti National Park.

Impalas often form into herds based on the sex and age, This is a group of female impalas.

Impala herd, Serengeti National Park.

At one point, we were driving into some hippos’ territory next to a hippo pool. Hippos stay in the water to remain cool during the day, but now several hippos were enjoying the morning walk and having breakfast in grass bushes. Hippos may seem clumsy, gentle or sometimes cute, they are one of most aggressive animals. In fact, hippos kill more humans than any other large animals in African.

A hippo in the bush. Don’t be fooled by their innocent looks, Hippo is one of the deadliest animals in Africa. Serengeti National Park.

The highlight came when we reached the south of the park facing an open savanna. There were totally 9 lions right in front of us, all females and youths. At first, we were only able to count 5 as others stayed low on the ground. As they revealed themselves one after another, people started cheering in low voices. There were four adults in the middle gazing at far distance away from us. Justin stood on top of our car but he couldn’t see what they are looking at. Lions didn’t make any move. After 20 minutes, they lost interests and started leaving.

A group of lions possibly looking at their prey, Serengeti National Park.

Lions in Serengeti National Park.

At this time of the year, wildebeests in migration mostly gathered at the area between Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Conservation Area. When we came two days earlier, the herds hadn’t all moved in. Now, we were at the middle of the great migration.

Map of Serengeti National Park.

2012.12.28We left Tindiga Tented Camp at 8:00am, drove back on the same road that we came upon. The distance seems much shorter on our way return. After 1 hour or so, we were so happy to be on the paved road again, but Justin told us it wouldn’t last long – it would be bumpy road all the way after passing Ngorongoro Crater.

Kept driving for 20 minutes, we were at the foot of Ngorongoro Crater. The road was jammed with safari jeeps in front of the entrance. The computer system was down, so the ticketing process moved very slowly. We took our time to see the exhibition in the visitor center while Justin was in line in a room filled with local guides waiting to buy the ticket. We noticed that almost all safari jeeps were Toyota Land Cruiser. Justin said that the model is sturdy and easy to maintain. The only downside compared to Land Rover is that Land Cruiser is heavier. During the rain season, it has greater chance to get stuck in the mud.

Safari jeeps waiting to enter Ngorongoro Conservation Area.

Stuffed animals in a safari jeep outside of Ngorongoro Conservation Area.

Entrance of Ngorongoro Conservation Area.

After 1 hour, the computer system recovered. We got the tickets and moved on. The eastern slope of Ngorongoro Crater rises 800 meters above the surrounding terrain. The easterly trade wind drops much of its moisture and creates the dense forest at this side of the crater.

Dense vegetation in south slope of Ngorongoro crater.

The road runs on top of the crater ridge. The elevation is about 2300 meters (7500 feet). At the south side, there is a spot for visitors to overlook both inside and outside of the crater.

Overlook Ngorongoro crater from its south ridge.

We would return to Ngorongoro and get to the crater floor on our last day of the trip. For now we just cycled half way around the crater ridge. At the western side, the annual precipitation is only half of that at the eastern slope, but still enough to support prosperous grassland. The lush and fresh greens cover the hillside and extend as far as eyes can see. Justin said that wealth is counted in the number of cattle one owns in Tanzania. People living here must be rich.

Western slope of Ngorongoro volcano.

Overlook the Ngorongoro crater and Lake Makat. This is entrance for visitors to get down to the crater floor.

A Maasai village for tourist near Ngorongoro Conservation Area.

It’s amazing how fast the environment changes. After 30 minutes, we got off B144 and turned to the north. The grassland just disappeared and the area surrounding us was like a scrubby desert. Their is no clear mark of the road. We picked up a man near the main road and drop him off at the entrance of Oldupai Gorge.

Oldupai Gorge Entrance.

Oldupai Gorge is also called Olduvai Gorge, which is a misspelling of Oldupai, a commonly found wild sisal plant in the area. It is one of the most important paleoanthropology sites in the world. Discovered in 1911, Oldupai has yielded many fossils of primitive hominid and stone tools dating back 2 million years ago in the layered sediments in the gorge. These finds convinced the world that humans originally evolved in Africa.

Oldupai Gorge.

We had lunch at the resting area and listened to an lecture given by the man we picked up earlier. It’s interesting to see how the perception of a person can change so remarkably in different settings – he was a nobody in our car and now he is a authoritative scholar.

The visitor center holds educational exhibitions about discoveries in Oldupai Gorge and Laetoli, 30 miles south where the famous footprints made by early hominid 3.6 million years ago was found. It’s one of the earliest evidences of hominids walking upright. It’s fascinating to imagine the day that these 3 individuals walking side by side with elephants. The elephants must be thinking, “What a weird creature they are! Why do they walk with two feet?” In the following 3 million years, human has taken the world and elephants are still elephants. The museum has a map that illustrates the timeline of Homo sapiens’ migration paths out of Africa and expansion to the world.

Vegetation of Oldupai Gorge.

Common Bulbul, Oldupai Gorge.

Agama Lizard, Oldupai Gorge.

We left Oldupai Gorge at about 2pm. The thunderstorms seemed so close, just behind those acacia trees.

Thunderstorm near Oldupai Gorge.

Returning to B144, we started seeing hundreds of hundreds wildebeests and zebras. We were approaching the famous Serengeti National Park.

Tunderstorm over Serengeti.

Zebras in migration near Serengeti National Park.