2014.3.17It’s our last day at French Polynesia. The typhoon was finally moved away. We were struggling between the Shark and Ray feeding tour around the lagoon and going to the main island, eventually we figured it’s possible to do both in one day.

We booked the Shark and Ray feeding tour in the morning. It’s a half-day tour, which doesn’t include lunch at motu. The cost is 11,500 XPF ($125) per person. The tour started at 9am. There were two other couples on the boat. Our guides are from a family. Once the boat left the resort and reached the middle of the lagoon, two young guide started playing local instruments and singing local songs.

Shark and Ray feeding tour, Bora Bora

The boat circled the main island in clockwise direction. At the southern end of the island, we made the first stop to swim with sharks. The water is shallow here. Sharks were easily visible.

Shark and Ray feeding tour, Bora Bora

Swimming with sharks, Shark and Ray feeding tour, Bora Bora

Tartoos on a local tour guide, Shark and Ray feeding tour, Bora Bora

Sailing for another quarter of a circle, the second stop was snorkeling over the coral garden. The water color contrasts clearly in this part of the lagoon.

Shark and Ray feeding tour, Bora Bora

The largest overwater bungalows, Shark and Ray feeding tour, Bora Bora

The last stop we made is the most interesting one, to feed rays. The water is so shallow that one can stand in the water. The guide held small fishes to attract rays to come around him, then he guided them to us. These rays knew there were easy food waiting for them. They were so eager and felt we were on their way so sometimes they were like trying to push us away from the behind. Occasional I could touch their mouth as they swam to me, it felt like they were biting my fingers gently.

Shark and Ray feeding tour, Bora Bora

Between these stops, two young guides kept singing and talking jokes to make sure we were entertained. They also pointed to us the luxury resorts on the motu and attractions on the main island from time to time.

A dock on Bora Bora’s main island, Shark and Ray feeding tour, Bora Bora

Old hotels on Bora Bora’s main island, Shark and Ray feeding tour, Bora Bora

We returned to the resort at about 12:20pm. The next boat shuttle to Vaitape would leave at 1pm. We had 40 minutes to take shower, pack our stuff and check out. The shuttle’s round trip charge was about 2500 XPF ($28) per person. Vaitape is on the other side of the island. The boat ride is about 35 minutes.

Vaitape is the capital city of Bora Bora. The boat dropped us at the port and confirmed with everyone on the pick-up time. The port is the center of this small town. A flee market is next to the port. Mostly selling local textile and small wood or stone sculptures. At the north side, there is a grocery store on the other side of the road.

We had lunch at Aloe Cafe. It tasted pretty good. Vaitape, Bora Bora

Fruit cart in Vaitape, Bora Bora

There are about 20 stores spreading around the port. Most of them are pearl shops and souvenir stores. My wife bought a bracelet at Bora Home. We like their selections of arts and jewelry.

Pearl and souvenir shops in Vaitape, Bora Bora

Cats at Vaitape, Bora Bora

It’s sunny for the whole afternoon. The boat picked us up at 4:30pm. When we returned to the resort, the boat that would transfer us to the airport were already waiting for us. Although the weather was not cooperating, our experience in Bora Bora was pleasant. Le Méridien’s service was very good too. Whenever a ride was needed, especially in the rainy days, we just called the front desk and they would send a cart to get us right away. Of course, it’s also an expensive experience. The boat transfer between the resort and the airport was 8500 XPF ($94) per person.

Bora Bora Airport

Our flight to the Easter Island was at 2am. We waited for 6 hours at Tahiti’s airport. Luckily, a cafe right next to the airport entrance opens 24 hours a day. We met an elder couple who were on our flight from Moorea to Bora Bora two days ago. They were on their way returning to the States. There were surprised that we were going to the Easter Island, “Is it somewhere people normal go?”. No, it’s not. That’s why we were going.

After 12am, we were allowed to check in and enter the departure hall. Compared to the simplicity of outside, the departure hall is more modern and comfortable. There are many couches.

2014.3.16The storm calmed down in the morning, but the heavy cloud was still hanging low. This is a long exposure shot taken from Le Méridien’s beach.

View of Mount Otemanu and overwater bungalows of Le Méridien

Breakfast buffet was held Le Tipanie restaurant. Rain started suddenly during the breakfast. Guests by the water had to move their tables hurriedly. Bora Bora are always connected with blue sky, white beach and palm trees, but this is what we saw in Bora Bora.

Breakfast at Le Méridien Bora Bora

Le Méridien was renovated in 2011. Directly facing Mount Otemanu, the resort has the best view in the island to view Bora Bora’s signature shaped mountain and the lagoon from the beach or from your private patio. The interior is modern and the overwater bungalow has bigger size glass floor than Pearl Resort in Moorea.

Inside the overwater bungalow of Le Méridien

Inside the overwater bungalow of Le Méridien

The resort is actively involved in sea turtle protection effort. Bora Bora’s turtle center is located in the resort’s private lagoon. From one side of the pool, you can walk down a couple of stairs and watch the turtles at water level. There were about 15 turtles in the pool. Some of them flew around freely, but others stayed at the corner without making any move for hours.

The Turtle Sanctuary in Le Méridien

At noon time, it seemed the tropical cyclone finally moved out of the region. The cloud was lighter. It’s soon getting hot with flushes of sunlight started breaking through. We had no plan in the afternoon. On the TV, CNN was reporting repeatedly on the disappearance of MH370 and the progress of Crimea’s referendum; the resort’s channel played Bruno Mars’ “Marry You” endlessly. Besides lying in the room, we also swam in Le Méridien’s inner lagoon.

Lunch at Le Méridien Bora Bora

View of Mount Otemanu from Le Méridien Bora Bora

Night starts to fall. I took some pictures with long exposure to smooth out the sea. Even the sky was covered by the cloud, the contrast between the gray sky and turquoise lagoon was still very striking.

Overwater bungalows of Le Méridien

More pictures after night fully settled in. Bora Bora was more like the paradise at the time.

Night view of overwater bungalows of Le Méridien again Mount Otemanu

Night view of overwater bungalows of Le Méridien

Night view of Le Méridien Bora Bora

The dinner served buffet on Sunday. It’s about $100 per person.

Dinner buffet at Le Méridien Bora Bora

Dinner buffet at Le Méridien Bora Bora

2014.3.15We are supposed to leave Moorea at 11:45am to Bora Bora. In the morning, we were worried if we could leave the island on that day, especially after seeing this during breakfast.

Rain stopped after the breakfast. We were told the flight had not been cancelled. At 9:30, a shuttle bus sent us to the airport. Moorea’s airport is small. There were about 30 to 40 passengers on the flight. All of us waited at the airport hall.

Moorea Airport

The rain was still on and off but not heavy. At 11am, we were told the flight would be delayed for an hour. Everyone got a coupon for a free drink.

A cat at Moorea Airport

At 12pm, the plane finally arrived. It’s flight from Tahiti. We watched the passenger getting off the plane and walking through the gate. They all looked fine. After all, it’s a only 10-minute flight from Tahiti to Moorea. It would take 45 minutes to get to Bora Bora. We all preyed that the weather wouldn’t become worse in the next hour.

Passengers anxiously waiting for the plane at Moorea Airport

The flight was smooth, only a little bumpy at the end. You should try to take the seat at the left side to be able to overlook the view of iconic overwater bungalows stretching into the turquoise lagoon like tentacles as the plane descending to the Bora Bora Airport.

Overlook Bora Bora’s lagoon from the airplane

Bora Bora Airport is built on a Motu. It seemed even smaller than Moorea’s airport. We were the last ones got off the plane. We let our hotel, Le Meridien, know our arriving date and flight in advance. As we walked out of the gate, the staff from the hotel were waiting for us. They put flower leis on both of us and led us to the boat. There maybe only a few planes leave and land here everyday, but people work very efficiently. We identified our bags and got on the boat. In less than 20 minutes, boats from different hotels all took their guests and gone. (There are free boats to take guests to the town on the island as well.)

Boats welcome guests at Bora Bora Airport

This is it, Bora Bora, the ultimate fantasy and wonderland. As Polynesian music played on the boat and weather was at its best in a few days, we even saw some sunsine, everyone’s spirit got lit up.

It took about half an hour boat ride to get to the hotel. We got our room after checking in. It’s over water but not far from the beach. Look out from our deck, what a view! Bora Bora definitely lives up to the reputation. It would be perfect if only the sky was not that cloudy.

Panoramic view of Mount Otemanu and Le Méridien Bora Bora

The signature view of Mount Otemanu, Bora Bora

After settled in the room, we returned to the lobby to look for something to eat. As we were walking around the central area, the storm hit again. Miki Miki Bar and Restaurant Le Te Ava both face the lagoon and Mount Otemanu by the beach. They were literally damped by the rain and wind. We were really lucky to have this two-hour window of relatively good weather to get here.

Stormy weather at Bora Bora

The storm lasted about 20 minutes. The rain lightened but never really stopped. The staff had to put everything messed up by the storm together. We had a simple lunch at the bar. After that, we caught up with our emails and played a couple of sets of pool games. Hotels on Bora Bora’s Motu are not connected by road. Not many places you could go in this weather.

Garden of Le Meridien Bora Bora

We had our dinner at Le Meridien’s Le Tipanie restaurant. Le Te Ava, normally open for dinner, was closed due to the weather. The food is delicious, looked elegant and expensive, $100 per person is normal.

Dinner at Le Meridien Bora Bora

Dinner at Le Meridien Bora Bora

The storm got severer at night. The overwater bungalows are supported by 4 poles. Every time a big wave hit them, I felt the room was shaking. I really worried that the bungalow could be toppled by the wave. It later turned out my worry was not baseless. Some bungalows in another area of Bora Bora were indeed damaged by the storm at that night.

2014.3.14Our schedule for the second day was to go to the lagoon excursion tour. Many operators offer the similar programs, which typically visit two bays, feed sharks and rays, snorkel and picnic on a Motu.

We booked the tour through Hiro’s Tours in advance. However, it’s raining heavily in the morning. The front desk told us there was a typhoon passing nearby and it would be with us for another 2 or 3 days!! The tour owner called us and let us know that the tour had to be cancelled. Although the operator associated with our hotel didn’t cancel their tour, we thought it might not worth going so we decided to rent a car to circle around the island.

Car rental with Avis can be arranged at hotel’s concierge desk. The rate is 7000 XPF for 8 hours. The car has to be returned before 5pm, so we actually only had about 6 hours left for the day. Avis’ office is near the ferry station. They sent a van to pick us up.

It’s a steady light rain as we got the car. Our first stop is Sofitel Hotel. Sofitel is known for having the longest beach on the island, but the best place to appreciate the view is to overlook the hotel at the vista point by the main road. Lines of over water bungalows floating over the crystal blue water, even the bad weather couldn’t conceal its beauty.

Panoramic view of Sofitel Moorea Resort

Our hotel, Pearl Resort, is in the walking distance of village Maharepa. We first stopped at a souvenir store and had some ice cream too. Passing the hotel, there is a small shopping center. There is a market, several bank ATMs, restaurants and souvenir stores, but the number of shops that are selling island specialty, black pearls, exceeds other kinds of business.

The Market near Pearl Resort, Moorea

The Market near Pearl Resort, Moorea

The Market near Pearl Resort, Moorea

Located between Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay, Hilton Moorea Resort is not close to any shops or market, but in terms of service and snorkeling site, it’s deemed as the best hotel in the island. We found their garden was lovely.

Garden of Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort & Spa

Garden of Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort & Spa

It’s drizzling all the time. Here was spot near on top of Opunohu Bay. It would be very nice if weather had been good.

Near Opunohu Bay, Moorea

InterContinental is the biggest resort in Moorea. We almost walked around the entire resort to look for the Dolphin Center and Turtle Sanctuary. Both of them are at the east side of the resort. Dolphine Center was closed at the moment. We saw at least 3 dolphins crusting around the pool.

InterContinental Resort & Spa, Moorea

InterContinental Resort & Spa, Moorea

Across a bridge in a small private lagoon, it’s InterContinental’s Turtle Sanctuary. It’s actually a sea turtles clinic. While we were visiting, a staff was feeding an old green turtle who barely wanted to eat and a small hawkbill turtle who is active and full of curiosity.

Turtle Sanctuary, Inter-Continental Resort & Spa, Moorea

It’s almost 3pm when we decided to sit down and have the lunch. Both the guide book and the staff in our hotel recommended Snack Mahana. It’s located about half a mile east to InterContinental Hotel just by the main road. The setup is at its basic and space is small, but the Polynesian food they offer is very tasty and delicious. Their back yard is next to the lagoon, but as it’s raining we had to sit next to the hut under the shield. Interestingly, The couple together with us on the ATV tour the earlier day was also having lunch there. The just came back a private lagoon tour.

Snack Mahana, Moorea

It’s already 1 hour to 5pm after we finished the lunch. We kept on driving to the west side of the island a little bit, but as the rain was getting heavier, we decided to turn back. The storm was on full blast on our way back. The rain was pouring sometimes. We just made it to Avis Car Rental before 5pm.

Overwater bungalow in the heavy cloudy day, Moorea Pearl Resort

2014.3.13Moorea was settled by Polynesians about 1000 years ago. Although possessing stunning natural beauty and easy-accessibility to Tahati, it’s still relatively less known compared to Bora Bora. Only 20 minutes on the ferry, we were approaching Moorea island.

Near Moorea ferry port

It’s before 7am. We didn’t see any bus service after we got off the ferry. Bus service runs in sync with ferry’s schedule, but it’s said it only starts at 8am. We hailed a taxi after waited for 20 minutes. The driver asked for 2500 XPF ($28), not cheap but acceptable. It took us about half an hour to get to Pearl Resort. The driver pointed us several places and the market we could visit along the way.

We were welcomed with flowers and drinks at the resort’s lobby. It’s 8:30am, it took a while for us to get a room.

The lobby, Moorea Pearl Resort

Infinity Pool, Moorea Pearl Resort

What we booked was a Premium Overwater Bungalow. The overwater bungalow of Pearl Resort is very close to the beach. The premium ones are at the sea side over deeper and clearer water. The inside is roomy.

Inner-view of the overwater bungalow, Moorea Pearl Resort

The stairs on one side of the balcony lead to the lower deck, which has stairs directly into the lagoon. Both of us got down to the water. We saw many small fishes. Some of them were very colorful.

Overwater bungalow, Moorea Pearl Resort

Snorkeling and kayak facilities are free to use. I did some Kayaking around the bungalows before leaving for the ATV tour.

We booked the ATV tour through ATV Moorea Tours. The rate is 21,000 XPF ($240) a bike for the Adventure Raid, and we got 15% discount as we paid in advance using Paypal. The lady from the office came to pick us up at 1pm. She is from France and had been living in Moorea for a couple of years. She told us that she liked Moorea over Bora Bora because Moorea still retained the country-side life style, while Bora Bora had been totally commercialized. One our way to the office, we picked up another young couple from Canada. They were here for their honeymoon.

At the office, everyone was given a helmet. We all looked a bit of funny now. The guide gave us a 5-minute instruction on how to operate the vehicle, and that’s it, we were on our way.

Moorea ATV Tour office

There were only our two couples on the tour. We drove back along the main road for several miles and turned off-road at the bottom of the Opunohu Bay to the inner island.

Moorea ATV Tour

We first looped around a plantation of pineapples, coconuts and other tropical fruits. The guide was humorous and never forgot to explain all kinds of vegetation to us and stop for photo opportunities.

The guide explains vegetation, Moorea ATV Tour

Moorea ATV Tour

We made a stop at Agricultural College at Opunohu. It’s basically a hovel selling fruit products. We did some tasting of their fresh jams and icecream.

Agricultural College at Opunohu, Moorea ATV Tour

We kept driving up to the mountain. At the end of road, it’s Belvedere Lookout. It’s good place to overlook Moorea’s two almost symmetrical bays, Opunohu Bay and Cook’s Bay, at the same time.

Mt. Mouaroa, the Sharktooth, Moorea

Overlooking Opunohu Valley, Mt Rotui and Cook and Opunohu Bays from Belvedere Lookout, Moorea

The discover tour would stop here, but we’d continue on. We drove through streams and mud puddles and jumped over slopes. You don’t want to wear shirt in light color, ’cause they’d be covered by splashing mud. We stopped at another high land, where we could see clearly the surrounding mountains. They are the Moorea’s crater wall.

Moorea ATV Tour

Moorea ATV Tour

Moorea’s volcanic crater and plantations, Moorea ATV Tour

The last leg was to climb the “Magic Mountain”. I’d say that it’s a little scary and probably won’t be allowed in America. We drove the car up and down along a narrow lane on the steep slope without any protection but trees by the road side. The summit offers 360° panoramic view of Moorea’s northern shore. The view is supposedly to be wonderful, but it was a cloudy day and it’s dripping on top of the mountain. At least we could see the island is totally enclosed by the coral reef and lagoons. In fact, it’s almost the best weather we had in French Polynesia. We were lucky to book the ATV tour on our first day of arrival.

Overlook Opunohu Bay at Magic Mountain. The broken reef line is caused by flushing freshwater from the river.

The same lady took us back to the hotel. I randomly took some pictures in the car.

Pao Pao at the bottom of Cook’s Bay, Moorea

Cook’s Bay, Moorea

We had dinner at Le Sud. Very plain setting and the food was unimaginative. Mosquitoes were quite active. You should consider wearing long pants or apply DEET if you don’t want to get bitten all over.

2014.3.13Our flight landed at Tahiti’s Fa’a’ā International Airport at 5am in the morning. It’s a small airport. We walked down the stairs and were welcomed by local music and dancing once we stepped into the airport.

Girls from various hotels standing at the airport exit with flower garlands welcoming their guests. We didn’t have this treatment as we were not going to stay at the island. It’s an open hallway outside of the airport. Shops were not opened yet, but there was a cafe serving food and beverage 24-hour a day. There was a bank ATM at each side of the exit. We got some cash, had some rest, then we headed to the ferry station.

Open hallway of Fa’a’ā International Airport, Tahiti

Taxi fare was 2000 XPF ($23). It took about 20 minutes from the airport to Aremiti Ferry Station. The light got brighter and the sky was rendered with the rosy color.

Aremiti Ferry Station in the early morning, Papeete, Tahiti

The ferry station is a two-level structure, very close to the center of Papeete, the capital of French Polynesia. The ticket office is at the first floor. The cost of one way ferry is about $18. The second floor is the waiting room. We bought two tickets for Aremiti 5. It’s 6am, the next boat was just about to leave.

Overlook Mont Orohena from ferry station, Papeete, Tahiti

The bottom level of the ferry is for cars. The mid-level is for passengers. There are enough space for several hundreds of people. A small cafe in the middle serving snacks and drinks. It was the first ferry of the day. There were not many passengers. The top level is the open deck. The view is nice but it’s windy. Aremiti 5 is a large ferry. There should be no worry to get seasick on board. For only 20 minutes, mountains on Moorea were already clear in our sight.

Look back at the port from the ferry, Papeete, Tahiti

Approaching Moorea