2019.6.30

There are two hiking routes along the Ilulissat Fjord: the blue and yellow trails. The trail is right next to the city, with floating icebergs on one side — walking alongside giants. These are the most recommended hiking routes in Ilulissat.

We returned to our hotel in Ilulissat around 5 PM. My plan for today was to complete a loop on the yellow trail. Since it wouldn’t get dark anyway, I had plenty of time. The yellow trail starts at a power plant. After leaving the main road, it didn’t take long to spot the trailhead sign. The yellow trail is only 2.7 km long, but in reality, there are ups and downs in the hills, occasional deviations from the marked route, and walking back to the hotel, making the total distance longer. However, the trail has little elevation gain and is quite easy.

After climbing a short wooden ladder, the trail continues over large, exposed granite boulders. The slope is not steep, but there is no defined path, so occasionally, I had to use my hands for support. Looking back from a high point, I could see the city by the sea, still covered by a vast layer of dark clouds.

Moving forward and climbing higher, I gradually saw massive icebergs floating on the sea. This is where the fjord opens into Disko Bay.

Suddenly, I heard a few bursts of air. I quickly climbed to a higher vantage point and saw two humpback whales swimming near the fjord entrance. Sometimes they lifted their tails before diving, sometimes they floated on the surface, releasing jets of mist. Sitting on a large rock, I was completely alone, surrounded by silence, except for the whales’ exhalations, the sound of their tails splashing in the water, and the gentle wind. In the distance, a speedboat was approaching, likely there to admire the icebergs and track the whales.

Making a turn around the cape into the bay, I saw icebergs stretching endlessly into the horizon. I wondered where else in the world I could witness such a scene. Majestic mountains are found everywhere, and large glaciers are common in high latitudes, but here, enormous icebergs are packed tightly within a fjord only a few kilometers wide. Some icebergs are one or two kilometers long. If they weren’t wedged together, the water between them would still be covered with floating ice — probably fragments from their collisions.

There were a few hikers scattered along the trail. In the photo below, you can see one person standing by the water, likely experiencing an even more breathtaking view from that angle. However, being too close to the water is risky. Icebergs occasionally collapse, sending waves toward the shore much faster than a person can run. I later witnessed an iceberg breaking apart and falling into the water — not too large, fortunately.

Geographically, Greenland belongs to the North American tectonic plate, but most of its plants originate from the European continent. Low-lying vegetation covers the exposed rocks, reaching only a few inches high. Many plants creep along the ground, yet some produce brightly colored flowers.

Continuing along the hillside, I saw the two humpback whales again, playing in the waters between the icebergs and the land.

Among the large boulders along the trail, pools of water formed, creating a Zen-like atmosphere. The scenery appeared as if filtered through a desaturated blue-green tint. Combined with the cool weather, any lingering restlessness faded away.

The rocks along the trail were marked with yellow paint, making it easy to navigate even when off-course.

The highest point of the yellow trail is near the end, offering a 360-degree panoramic view of both the fjord and the city. On the other side of the mountain, I could see a winding trail — it was the start of the blue route, which I planned to hike the next day.

Near the exit of the trail, I passed the Ilulissat cemetery. A little further, two signs stood, marking the starting points of both the yellow and blue trails.

By the time I returned to the hotel, it was just 7 PM — perfect for dinner after a fulfilling day of hiking across Disko Island in the morning and trekking Ilulissat’s yellow trail in the evening.

2019.6.30

Walking through the town of Qeqertarsuaq and continuing along the coastline, we reached the Kuannit trail. Since we had a boat to catch back to Ilulissat at noon, we started early and had the entire trail to ourselves. On one side of the town, there was a school with a soccer field. Looks like the soccer fields by the sea aren’t unique to Lofoten, Norway.

Crossing a small wooden bridge marked the edge of town. The trail was well-marked with yellow signs, some painted on large rocks, others made of stacked stones, making it easy to stay on track.

The hike to Kuannit is less than 4 km one way. The initial part of the trail was quite flat, surrounded by patches of wildflowers and occasional exposed volcanic rocks. Along the coast, waterfalls cascaded into the sea, and icebergs floated offshore.

As we neared our destination, the terrain became rugged and steep. Looking ahead, jagged rocks and ridges extended into the sea. The vegetation also changed dramatically — what had been mostly tundra plants suddenly became lush greenery, with shrubs growing taller than a person. In Greenlandic, “Kuannit” refers to a plant called Angelica, which grows abundantly here with its small white umbrella-shaped flowers. I later looked up its Chinese name and realized it was Bai Zhi (白芷).

By the coast, there was a massive rock formation composed of columnar basalt, some neatly parallel and others radiating outward — clearly the result of cooling volcanic lava. Unlike the rest of Greenland, Disko Island was formed by volcanic activity, and the nutrient-rich volcanic soil allows plants to thrive.

I attempted to climb up the hill to get around the large rock, but the dense shrubs made it impossible. On the way back, we encountered a guided tour group. Their guide mentioned an alternate route higher up the hill, which offered more to explore.

On the way back, near the wooden bridge, we had a panoramic view of Qeqertarsuaq. If one doesn’t want to hike all the way to Kuannit, there’s a smaller waterfall called Qorlortorsuaq nearby. Given more time, one could even hike up to the glacier at the mountain’s peak, where dog sledding is available in summer.

Back at the hotel, we still had time before departure. We wandered into a local supermarket and saw locals dressed in traditional attire. Greenland is vast, and clothing styles vary by region. Ilulissat and Disko Island belong to West Greenland, where the outfits are particularly colorful — vibrant jackets and shawls, seal-skin pants, and knee-high white boots adorned with intricate designs.

Just before departure, we were informed that our boat was delayed due to weather. After about 20 minutes, the hotel staff suddenly told us to hurry — it was time to board.

It was on a smaller speedboat that taking us back to Ilulissat. It cut the travel time from over four hours to just two. When we set off, near the coastline, we could see the Kuannit trail from the water. The scenery had changed completely — yesterday was clear and sunny, but now thick clouds loomed low over the sea.

Approaching Ilulissat, the boat slowed. Unlike yesterday, where only large icebergs dotted the sea, the water was now covered in small floating ice chunks — likely the weather issue we had been warned about. The captain navigated carefully, weaving through the ice until we finally reached Ilulissat’s harbor.

2019.6.29

We returned to the hotel at dinner time. The hotel’s restaurant was quite high-end. A small bay was just outside the window. It was around 6:30 PM, and the sun was shining brightly. While waiting for our meal, I went outside to take a few photos. Qeqertarsuaq was once the capital of northern Greenland, and these small cannons were probably used for defense.

Dinner was as exquisite as it had been in Ilulissat. In such a polar region, seafood was abundant, but fresh vegetables and fruits were extremely limited. A good restaurant had to rely on the freshness of ingredients and the art of plating to stand out.

Shortly after dinner started, the sky outside suddenly darkened as waves of fog rolled in, gradually enveloping the peninsula and covering the entire bay. It reminded me of our experience at Mount Rainier — one moment, the sun was shining brightly, and the next, thick fog set in and lingered for days.

After dinner, we took a stroll around the hotel, which was also the center of Qeqertarsuaq. A uniquely shaped church stood by the roadside, with a pointed roof, earning it the nickname “The Lord’s Ink Pot.” Not far away was the former governor’s house, now converted into a museum, though it was already closed at that hour.

Qeqertarsuaq is actually located on a very small peninsula on the southern part of Disko Island. A small bay extends into one side of the peninsula, making it a natural harbor. In the distance, icebergs floated on the sea. The sunlight was still able to pierce through the mist, illuminating the icebergs with a mysterious glow.

A small path on the south side of town leads to the southernmost point of Disko Island, a place called Udkiggen. I wanted to explore. Along the way, I passed an open area filled with abandoned machinery and piles of wood. It made me a bit uneasy, especially since it was already “nighttime” at 10 PM. The sky was dim, and there wasn’t a single person around. But beyond that area, the landscape turned back into a coastal tundra.

Following the planned route, I left the main road and headed toward the cape. The ground here consisted of exposed granite slabs, gray and white in color, covered with patches of black and green moss and lichen. Between the rocks, small shrubs and grasses grew sparsely. Walking on the rocks made the journey easier. I was alone, surrounded by a vast and desolate landscape.

The deeper I went, the harder the terrain became — large uneven rocks, waterlogged tundra. I only made it halfway before deciding to turn back. From the coastal side near the town, I could see the colorful houses typical of the Arctic, perched on bare rock. Some stood alone, while others clustered together. The people living there must be used to the sight of icebergs floating just outside their windows.

By the time I returned to town, it was already past 11 PM. Suddenly, a firework shot up into the sky, followed by the laughter of children. This was no Shangri-La, yet it still felt like a hidden paradise.

There are several theories about why people in the Arctic paint their houses in bright colors. One common belief is that red paint was cheap and durable, but this doesn’t explain why blue and yellow houses are also prevalent. Another theory suggests that different colors were used to indicate different professions or social statuses. Some say that in the harsh Arctic climate, with frequent snow storms, hunters returning home could easily spot their colorful houses from afar. In the end, there is no definitive answer.

2019.6.29

Today’s plan was to visit Disko Island and stay there for a night. Many travelers leaving from Ilulissat choose to visit the Eqi Glacier. We thought about it for a while but ultimately decided on Disko Island because we didn’t want to miss the Kuannit hiking trail.

When we booked our stay in Ilulissat, it was for several nights in a row. The Hotel Icefiord kindly waived the charge for one night after learning that we would be staying on Disko Island. To get there, we had to cross Disko Bay, with our boat departing at 11 a.m. In the morning, I took a short walk along the yellow trail near the glacier, where wildflowers were blooming along the path.

At 11 a.m., we boarded the boat at the harbor and realized it was the same one we had taken the night before to see the icebergs. Among the boats traveling between towns in Disko Bay, this one was relatively large but moved slowly. The trip to Qeqertarsuaq took about four hours.

The weather was nice today—the sea was calm, and the sky was clear and blue. There were fewer than ten passengers on board. My wife felt a bit seasick and lay down in the cabin to rest. I stood at the bow, enjoying the sea breeze as we passed by icebergs floating in the water. These icebergs had already drifted in the bay for some time and had melted quite a bit, making them smaller than the ones still stuck in the glacier. Each had a unique shape, and in the sunlight, they glowed with a soft blue color.

Disko Island is the largest island in Greenland apart from the main island. From a distance, we could already see its distinctive flat-topped mountains and the glaciers covering their peaks. The island has a small population of about a thousand people, most of whom live in Qeqertarsuaq. In the past, Greenland was divided into northern and southern regions, with Nuuk as the southern capital and Qeqertarsuaq as the northern capital. It wasn’t until 1940 that all governance was moved to Nuuk, and Disko Island’s administrative role became a thing of the past.

“Welcome to Disko island, you can disco all night!”

The hotel arranged a car to pick us up at the harbor, though the ride was only a few minutes. Hotel Disko Island is probably the only official hotel on the island and is located in what used to be the governor’s residence. The hotel is quite large, with rooms spread out across multiple buildings.

Qeqertarsuaq, whose name comes from the local Inuit language, is a town filled with colorful wooden houses. The hotel receptionist patiently repeated the pronunciation of “Qeqertarsuaq” for us, and we realized that it wasn’t as difficult as it looked—just reading it as it’s spelled was close enough.

The town is small, with only one supermarket, a small church, and maybe just one restaurant, located inside the hotel. We walked to the other side of town, where we found a café that also sold some food. Along the way, we could see icebergs floating in the sea. The sky was completely clear, but in just a few hours, the weather would change again, showing us a different side of this Arctic landscape.