2019.6.30

There are two hiking routes along the Ilulissat Fjord: the blue and yellow trails. The trail is right next to the city, with floating icebergs on one side — walking alongside giants. These are the most recommended hiking routes in Ilulissat.

We returned to our hotel in Ilulissat around 5 PM. My plan for today was to complete a loop on the yellow trail. Since it wouldn’t get dark anyway, I had plenty of time. The yellow trail starts at a power plant. After leaving the main road, it didn’t take long to spot the trailhead sign. The yellow trail is only 2.7 km long, but in reality, there are ups and downs in the hills, occasional deviations from the marked route, and walking back to the hotel, making the total distance longer. However, the trail has little elevation gain and is quite easy.

After climbing a short wooden ladder, the trail continues over large, exposed granite boulders. The slope is not steep, but there is no defined path, so occasionally, I had to use my hands for support. Looking back from a high point, I could see the city by the sea, still covered by a vast layer of dark clouds.

Moving forward and climbing higher, I gradually saw massive icebergs floating on the sea. This is where the fjord opens into Disko Bay.

Suddenly, I heard a few bursts of air. I quickly climbed to a higher vantage point and saw two humpback whales swimming near the fjord entrance. Sometimes they lifted their tails before diving, sometimes they floated on the surface, releasing jets of mist. Sitting on a large rock, I was completely alone, surrounded by silence, except for the whales’ exhalations, the sound of their tails splashing in the water, and the gentle wind. In the distance, a speedboat was approaching, likely there to admire the icebergs and track the whales.

Making a turn around the cape into the bay, I saw icebergs stretching endlessly into the horizon. I wondered where else in the world I could witness such a scene. Majestic mountains are found everywhere, and large glaciers are common in high latitudes, but here, enormous icebergs are packed tightly within a fjord only a few kilometers wide. Some icebergs are one or two kilometers long. If they weren’t wedged together, the water between them would still be covered with floating ice — probably fragments from their collisions.

There were a few hikers scattered along the trail. In the photo below, you can see one person standing by the water, likely experiencing an even more breathtaking view from that angle. However, being too close to the water is risky. Icebergs occasionally collapse, sending waves toward the shore much faster than a person can run. I later witnessed an iceberg breaking apart and falling into the water — not too large, fortunately.

Geographically, Greenland belongs to the North American tectonic plate, but most of its plants originate from the European continent. Low-lying vegetation covers the exposed rocks, reaching only a few inches high. Many plants creep along the ground, yet some produce brightly colored flowers.

Continuing along the hillside, I saw the two humpback whales again, playing in the waters between the icebergs and the land.

Among the large boulders along the trail, pools of water formed, creating a Zen-like atmosphere. The scenery appeared as if filtered through a desaturated blue-green tint. Combined with the cool weather, any lingering restlessness faded away.

The rocks along the trail were marked with yellow paint, making it easy to navigate even when off-course.

The highest point of the yellow trail is near the end, offering a 360-degree panoramic view of both the fjord and the city. On the other side of the mountain, I could see a winding trail — it was the start of the blue route, which I planned to hike the next day.

Near the exit of the trail, I passed the Ilulissat cemetery. A little further, two signs stood, marking the starting points of both the yellow and blue trails.

By the time I returned to the hotel, it was just 7 PM — perfect for dinner after a fulfilling day of hiking across Disko Island in the morning and trekking Ilulissat’s yellow trail in the evening.