Egypt – Cairo

2010.10.5In the morning, we felt we hadn’t seen the Pyramids enough, so we decided to go to Giza again. Learnt the lesson from yesterday, we set off at 7AM. It took us more than an hour because of the traffic jam, but we were still earlier than those tour buses. We entered Giza Plateau from the entrance near Sphinx. There were only one small group there, we got at least 20-minute time of our own to take pictures and appreciate her majesty.

The Sphinx and the Great Pyramid
The Great Sphinx, Giza

We didn’t go to the place with panorama view, but we did get chance to take pictures with a camel.

Camel Rides
Giza pyramid
Camel for Photo
Camel man and his camel posed in front of Khafre’s pyramid, Giza

The inside of the Great Pyramid only opens at afternoon. We couldn’t wait that long. Had we seen the documentary about how pyramids were build, the chambers, pathways and possible internal ramps, we probably would make a different decision, but our plan for the afternoon was to to see Islamic Cairo. The first stop was the area around Khan al-Khalili. It’s so coincident that the taxi driver to took us there was the same one who took us to Giza in the first day.

Just next to Khan al-Khalili, Mosque of al-Azhar is one of the oldest mosque of the city and the highest authority of Islamic study. My wife had to wear scarf to get in. Mosques have more restrictions on what to wear for women – all the body parts have to be covered.

Entrance of Mosque of al-Azhar
Mosque of al-Azhar
Mosque of al-Azhar
Mosque of al-Azhar
Mosque of al-Azhar
Mosque of al-Azhar
Mosque of al-Azhar
Mosque of al-Azhar

The world famous Khan al-Khalili bazaar contains only a handful alleys. They are so narrow that the goods placed outside the stores, clothes, carpet, brass, spices and souvenirs, almost block the pathway.

Brass on Sale in Khan al-Khalili
Khan al-Khalili

Leaving Khan al-Khalili behind, Fatimid Cairo is like a living museum of medieval architecture. It has many mosques and palaces that were originally built in Fatimid dynasty, but reconstructed by later dynasties. Wandering around its narrow streets, I was particularly amazed by those intriguing and delicate carvings on the wall and window. Arabic inscriptions also become part of decoration of buildings as they are always engraved in such artistic styles.

Madrassa of Sultan Barquq, Islamic Cairo
Fatimid Cairo
Islamic Cairo
Fatimid Cairo
Islamic Cairo
Fatimid Cairo
Islamic Cairo
Fatimid Cairo
Islamic Cairo
Fatimid Cairo
Islamic Cairo
Fatimid Cairo
Islamic Cairo
Fatimid Cairo

We spent about 2 hour in Islamic Cairo. After that, we made a right decision not to eat McDonalds but went to Al-Azhar Park and had a lunch at Citadel View Restaurant. Al-Azhar Park makes a distinct contrast to its surroundings – it’s like a small oasis among all the gray tones. The restaurant is quite high-end with nice food, good service, and especially, wonderful view. In the front, you can clearly see the Citadel erecting on top of the highland; at the back, it provides panoramic views of Islamic Cairo.

Bread at Citadel View Restaurant in Al-Azhar Park
Citadel View Restaurant in Al-Azhar Park
Citadel Overlook from Citadel View Restaurant in Al-Azhar Park
Overlook the Citadel from Al-Azhar Park
Islamic Cairo Panorama from Citadel View Restaurant in Al-Azhar Park
Overlook Islamic Cairo from Al-Azhar Park

When we arrived at Mosque of Ibn Tulun, the sun was already low in the sky. There was only one tour group there and they soon left. The inner courtyard were all empty, I felt I was looking at a Star Wars scene. The spiral minaret can be accessed from outer courtyard. You can reach the very top with an easy climb, rewarded by an excellent view of the city.

Mosque of Ibn Tulun
Fountain and Minret of Mosque of Ibn Tulun
City View from the Spiral Minaret at Mosque of Ibn Tulun
Overlook the surrounding city on top of the wall of Mosque of Ibn Tulun
Mosque of Ibn Tulun
Mosque of Ibn Tulun
Mosque of Ibn Tulun
Mosque of Ibn Tulun

Again, it’s too late to enter Citadel. It’s a regret because this was our last day in Cairo.

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Egypt – Cairo

2010.10.4When you are first time in Cairo, the first thing you want to do is – to see the pyramids.

We left the hotel at 8AM. On our way to Giza, one man who just jumped into our car at the traffic light and started asking us to take the pyramid tour with him. He spoke very good English and were good at talking by telling us travel tips, local customs together with his sales pitch. However, he wasted us at least half an hour by taking us to his village near Giza. What we learnt is, we should made up our mind early, stick to the plan and be firm to refuse any distraction.

Pyramids, Sphinx, Giza Plateau, Pharaoah’s Tomb, merely mentioning these names can get us excited, now we stand beside them. Somehow, we didn’t feel the mysteriousness anymore. However, we were still awed by their sheer size, and thinking how old they are even made me “confused”. “Have they really been standing there for five thousand years?” Five thousand years ago, Egyptian could already build these enormous structures with this level of accuracy. Amazing, overwhelming, and …, confusing!

The Great Pyramid
The Pyramid

For a while, we couldn’t find the Sphinx, then we saw a round-shaped structure at the distance. That must be it. It’s the Sphinx’ back of the head.

The Sphinx‘ back of the head
The back of the Sphinx
The Sphinx and Pyramid of Menkaure
The Pyramid of Khafre and the Great Sphinx of Giza

We left Giza Plateau at about noon. After a short break at the hotel, we went to the Egyptian Museum. It’s not in my original plan, but it seemed to be a good destination after talking to Hotel’s personnel. We hired a guide for a 2-hour tour. For first-time visitors who are not familiar with Egyptology, a guide can be really helpful to lead you through more than 120,000 items in display and let you focus on the most interesting pieces, but sometimes the guide just halfheartedly recited what he had to say.

The Egyptian Museum
Egyptian Museum
Street view outside the Egyptian Museum
Storied building next to Tahrir Square

Our next stop was Coptic Cairo. Coptic Cairo is a district where many Christian churches are located at. It’s also called Old Cairo because it is where the city was found when Egypt was a predominantly Christian country. We didn’t get into the district because the ticket office closes at 4PM everyday. Had we visited Coptic Cairo first, we would still have time to see the museum, because we would be able to get to the museum before 4PM and the museum closes at 6PM.

Coptic Cairo
Coptic Cairo
Coptic Cairo
Coptic Cairo
Coptic Cairo
Coptic Cairo
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Egypt – Start

2010.10.2~3In hindsight, the trip plan was a bit aggressive – in total we flew 13 times in 16 days. We went to two continents, camped in the desert, strolled along the Nile River and lodged on the clifftop by the Aegean Sea. Maybe the only thing I wanted to see but had to skip is Meteora in Greece. Other than that, we felt pleased and, in fact, honored to see all the wonders in these two countries of the longest human history and the greatest civilizations.

The trip started on Oct. 2nd. We left San Francisco at noon. It’s Lufthansa Airline but operated by United. Because it’s an international flight. United “generously” provided one meal and one snack on the 10-hour flight. There were 5-hour connection time at Frankfurt so we had a lunch in the airport. The food was nice, but the exchange rate was outrageous, €1 = $1.68.

Frankfurt Airport
Lunch at Frankfurt Airport
Lunch at Frankfurt Airport
Lunch at Frankfurt Airport
Lunch at Frankfurt Airport
Lunch at Frankfurt Airport

When we arrived in Cairo, it’s already Sunday night. Before we stepped out of the airport, we already started experiencing Egyptian’s “hospitality”. A man in the official(?) airport booth offered us the price of 150 Egyptian pounds to the hotel, which should only cost 50 pounds. Out of the airport, we were approached by a young man who claimed he had a taxi. With no white or black taxi in sight, we decided to go with him. We ended up paying him more because he told us an extra 10-pound was needed to use the toll road, which he didn’t take. Any way, it’s late night and we arrived in hotel safely.

The hotel we stay is Safir Hotel at Zamalek. Zamalek is an island in the Nile River. Many foreign embassies resides in this district. It’s a quieter area but by no means up-scale. We got a smaller room in a suite, but we did have a nice view of the Nile.

Overlook the Nile River from the Hotel Room
Night view of the Nile

The best feature of the hotel is its pool. It’s an open area by the river, which offers breezy atmosphere that make you think the tumultuous Cairo is a different world. Every Sunday night, live music is played with traditional instruments, such as Oud.

Live Music in Safir Hotel at Zamalek
Traditional music play by the pool at Safir Hotel at Zamalek
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Japan – Kyoto – The Heart of Japan

Famous for its refined cuisine, crafts and gardens, Kyoto is considered by many Japanese as where their spiritual hearts reside. The city is not as vigorous as Tokyo or Osaka, the pace is slower and people are dressed less fashionable, but hundreds years of cultural deposition soon reveal their attractiveness once you slow down, lay back and start enjoying the city.

What is more fun than walking around this city wearing the traditional costume in the perfect weather. We saw a lot of families and groups of girls in Kimono at every tourists attraction. Geisha and Maiko are not uncommon either.

We spent two and half days in Kyoto before leaving for Beijing. We had a wonderful time and loved everything we experienced in Japan. The cultures are somewhat close but sometimes totally different from China. We will definitely come back to visit more places in the future.

Cars in Stack
Cars in Stack
Kyoto Station
Kyoto Station
Girls wearing Kimono at Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社)
Girls wearing Kimono at Yasaka Shrine(八坂神社)
Stone-Paved Roads between Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社) and Kiyomizu Temple (清水寺)
Stone-Paved Roads between Yasaka Shrine(八坂神社)and Kiyomizu Temple(清水寺)
Geisha
Stores in Three-Year Slope (三年坂)
Two-Year Slope (二年坂)
Two-Year Slope(二年坂)
Monk in Kiyomizu Temple (清水寺)
Monk in Kiyomizu Temple(清水寺)
Nishiki Market (锦市场)
Nishiki Market(锦市场)
Nishiki Market (锦市场)9
Nishiki Market(锦市场)
Nishiki Market (锦市场)
Nishiki Market(锦市场)
Kamo River (鸭川)
Kamo River(鸭川)
Nijo Castle  (二条城)
Nijo Castle(二条城)
Nijo Castle  (二条城)
Nijo Castle(二条城)
Kyoto Tower
Kyoto Tower
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Japan – Hakone

We spent one day at Hakone on our way from Tokyo to Kyoto. Hakone is famous for its hot springs. At Hakone-Yumoto (箱根湯本), hotels are built on the hill along the river, most of them have public bath houses using water from hot springs and provide exquisite Japanese cuisine, normally meal and breakfast are included in the room price (一泊两食).

After three-day intensive walking in Tokyo, we decided to slow down and spent the first afternoon in Hakone-Yumoto. At night, we stayed at Hotel Okada. Its facility is relatively new, the service is good, and the food is delicious, good-looking, in small dishes but more than we can eat. We chose the Japanese style room (和室) and slept on the tatami. It’s a new and relaxing experience.

The second day, we took the popular round-trip route to see Hakone area. Along the road, on Lake Ashi (芦ノ湖), Hakone Ropeway and from Owakudani (大涌谷), there are a couple of spots we could see the famous Mt. Fuji. There was a surreal feeling, similar to when we visited Syndey Opera House, something we had seen so many times on calendars from our childhoods, now we stood next to it.

Stores in Hakone-Yumoto

Stores in Hakone-Yumoto (箱根湯本)
Stores in Hakone-Yumoto (箱根湯本)
Stores in Hakone-Yumoto (箱根湯本)
Stores in Hakone-Yumoto (箱根湯本)

A Japanese Garden in Hakone-Yumoto

A Japanese Garden in Hakone-Yumoto (箱根湯本)

A Japanese Style Room in Hotel Okada

A Japanese Style Room in Hotel Okada

Round-trip Route around Hakone

Round-trip Route around Hakone
Lake Ashi (芦ノ湖) and Mt. Fuji
Lake Ashi(芦ノ湖)and Mt. Fuji
Hakone Ropeway
Hakone Ropeway
Stores at Owakudani (大涌谷)
Black eggs – still white inside
Black eggs – still white inside.
Mt. Fuji from Owakudani (大涌谷)
Mt. Fuji from Owakudani(大涌谷)
Stream Vents in Owakudani (大涌谷)
Stream Vents in Owakudani(大涌谷)
Hakone Tozan Cablecar
Hakone Tozan Cablecar
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Japan – Tokyo – Lost in Translation

Japan is the first country we visit whose language we don’t understand. Luckily, almost all names of the places, subway stations, streets, stores and restaurants, are written in Chinese characters – Kanji (漢字). It makes our lives a lot of easier in this foreign city. We can instantly recognize and remember them, and most of time we can figure out what they mean. Had them written only in Japanese Characters or English, they would look all similar to us and would be much more difficult to remember.

Speaking is a different story. Although the characters are same as Chinese, the pronunciations are totally different. What is interesting is that our appearances are so easy to fit in, so people naturally start speaking Japanese to us, but we don’t know any sentence except “Excuse me” and “Thank you”; on the contrary, some westerns who live in Japan for many years and speak fluent Japanese, but they look so different so people always start talking to them in broken English. If we don’t have a map with us, asking direction is a big challenge; but once we write down the name in Kanji, then we have a common ground.

The Busiest Crossroad, from Starbucks in Shibuya (渋谷)
The busiest crossroad, from Starbucks in Shibuya(渋谷)
Adults in Suit Reading Anime
Adults in suit reading anime
Green Onion, $6 a bunch
Green onion, $6 a bunch
Tsukiji Fish Market (筑地市场)
Tsukiji fish market(筑地市场)
No Phone Call in the Subway
No phone call in the subway
Rainbow Bridge
Rainbow bridge
Ginza in the Rainy Night
Ginza(銀座)in the rainy night
Toyota showroom in Daiba (台場) - 草食男和森林女
Toyota showroom in Daiba(台場) – 草食男和森林女
Tokyo Tower
Tokyo Tower
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Japan – Tokyo – Culture Fusion

Tokyo is the most unique city in the world to showcase the fusion of east and west, tradition values and modern sensations. There is always a long line in front of Kabuki-za (歌舞伎座), people wash their hands before entering shrines and Statue of Hachiko (忠犬公像) is still a popular meeting place. Loyalty, honesty, discipline, perfectionism, these are still the values to be respected. On the other hand, the high rise in West Shinjuku (西新宿), the futuristic buildings in Daiba (台場), the nightlife in Kabukicho (歌舞伎町), the endless choices and customizations of consumer products and fashionable OL walking on the street all remind you that this is one of the most exciting cities in the world. While Kabuki, Tea Ceremony and Sumo are preserved, modern Japan has developed new cultural phenomenons, such as Anime, Cosplay and Video Games.

Although a lot of Japanese traditions are highly influenced by ancient China, they are better preserved and valued in Japan. The cultures are so rich and the country is relatively small. It makes Japan an ideal destination for tourists.

Sunrise in Ginza
Sunrise in Ginza
Yamaha Store in Ginza
Yamaha Ginza Store
 Kabuki-za (歌舞伎座)
Kabuki-za (歌舞伎座)
Ginza
Ginza
Ginza Window Display
Ginza Window Display
Hibiya Koen (日比谷公園)
Hibiya Koen (日比谷公園)
National Diet Building (国会議事堂)
National Diet Building (国会議事堂)
Nijubashi Bridge (皇居二重橋)
Nijubashi Bridge (皇居二重橋)
Imperial Palace (皇居)
Imperial Palace (皇居)
Statue of Hachiko (忠犬公像)
Statue of Hachiko (忠犬公像). Hachiko waited for his master at Shibuya subway station every day for 10 years after his master passed away.
Night Club for Women Only, Kabukicho (歌舞伎町)
Night Club for Women Only, Kabukicho (歌舞伎町)
East Shinjuku (東新宿)
East Shinjuku (東新宿)
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Buildin (都庁)
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building (都庁)
Daiba (台場) Skyline
Daiba (台場) Skyline
Fuji TV in Daiba (台場的富士电视台)
Fuji TV in Daiba (台場的富士电视台)
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Japan – Temples and Shrines

There are countless temples and shrines in Japan, especially in Kyoto. While temples are for Buddhists, shrines are the worship places for Japanese traditional Shinto (神道教).

Shinto Shrines are marked by its symbolical gate, Torii (鸟居). The most famous, also the most photographed, shrine is Fushimi Inari Taisha (伏見稲荷大社) in Kyoto. Because Inari is a god of business, companies and individuals built thousands of Toriis dedicated to Inari. These thousands of gates in red color lines up one after another along the trails from the bottom to the top of the mountain. The scenery is really one of kind. There is no one single god in Shinto, anything in nature can be worshiped. Shrines normally have a small pool in front of their gate. People must wash their hands and mouth before entering the shrine.

A lot of temples and shrines look very new because the paint seems to be applied recently. At first, I felt the new paints were conflicting with the ancient building style. I later learnt that rebuilding temples and shrines is a tradition in preserving their sacrality.

Meiji Shrine (明治神宫,东京)
The shrine in the raining day is more peaceful and divine.

Meiji Shrine (明治神宫,东京)
Meiji Shrine (明治神宫,东京)
Meiji Shrine (明治神宫,东京)
Meiji Shrine (明治神宫,东京)
Meiji Shrine (明治神宫,东京)

Higashi Honganji Temple (東本願寺,京都)

Higashi Honganji Temple (東本願寺,京都)
Higashi Honganji Temple (東本願寺,京都)

Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社,京都)

Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社,京都)
Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社,京都)
Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社,京都)
Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社,京都)
Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社,京都)

Kiyomizu Temple (清水寺,京都)
Yasaka Shrine, Kiyomizu Temple and the shopping district in between are popular tourist attractions. It’s golden week in Japan. People are everywhere.

Kiyomizu Temple (清水寺,京都)
Kiyomizu Temple (清水寺,京都)
Kiyomizu Temple (清水寺,京都)

Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社)
Two railway stops south of Kyoto Station. I got there before 7AM at morning to avoid the crowd.

Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社)
Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社)
Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社)
Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社)

Kinkaku-ji Temple (金閣寺)
Another popular tourist attraction. Too many people to have a place to take pictures.

Kinkaku-ji Temple (金閣寺)
Kinkaku-ji Temple (金閣寺)

Ryoan-ji Temple (竜安寺)
The temple was almost closed when we got there. I had no time to appreciate the “ultimate expression of Zen Buddhism”.

Ryoan-ji Temple (竜安寺)
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Japan – Beautiful Food

Most Japanese food taste quite light, (except noodles, they are very salty), and simple. A small portion of salted vegetables (咸菜) or Sashimi can be put on top of rice to make a dish. In fact, the rice itself is an ingredient. It is fresh and fragrant so the whole dish is still rich and flavorful.

If to name one characteristic about Japanese cuisine, it must be their artistic plating. The dishes look so beautiful that you want to cherish them instead of eating them. If the content of the dish is simple, the preparation and cleaning must be time consuming because it takes many dishes to make a dinner. It is said that this is because in the past the resources is relatively scarce so Japanese have to make the food appealing to appetite. But I think pursuing the attractive presentation to the extreme is embedded in Japanese’s blood. The product packaging is always artful, the streets are always tidy and organized, even people are always dressed fashionably.

东京商店里的小店

东京商店里的小店

かに道樂,银座八丁目

かに道樂,银座八丁目
かに道樂,银座八丁目
かに道樂,银座八丁目
かに道樂,银座八丁目

箱根Hotel Okada的晚餐料理

箱根Hotel Okada的晚餐料理
箱根Hotel Okada的晚餐料理
箱根Hotel Okada的晚餐料理
箱根Hotel Okada的晚餐料理
箱根Hotel Okada的晚餐料理

祗园小石,京都

祗园小石,京都
祗园小石,京都

いづ重寿司,京都

いづ重寿司,京都
いづ重寿司,京都
いづ重寿司,京都
いづ重寿司,京都
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