2014.10.31We had planed to see Notre-Dame in the morning. After having breakfast at the hotel, we were on our way at 8am. Place Saint-Michel was very quiet in the early morning, barely saw anyone there; but it’s a busy place during the day, where French like to meet. On the right side of the following picture, is Fontaine Saint-Michel. Given its popularity, I feel that it requires some maintenance to say the least. With so many people around it during the day, it’s not looking good in the picture.

Place Saint-Michel, Latin Quarter, Paris

Cathedral of Notre Dame is located at the east end of Île de la Cité. The construction started in 1163. From choir to nave to the western Façade, it’s 90 years later when two towers were built. After that, the north and south transepts were redesigned and flying buttresses were added, plus remaining touches and elements, it took over 180 years for the Cathedral to be fully completed. The cathedral opens at 8 am, there were not many visitors yet. Notre Dame’s western Façade is famous for its well-proportioned imposing presence and exquisite carvings and statues; but the interior is quite simple.

The nave looking toward the chancel, Notre-Dame, Paris

Chancel windows of Notre-Dame, Paris

A chapel of Notre-Dame, Paris

Talked with the keeper, we learned that the tower wouldn’t open until 10 o’clock and now it’s not even 9 yet. We decided to see Panthéon first. The distance between Notre Dame and Panthéon is only 1 km, we just need follow Rue Saint-Jacques. On our way, we passed the backdoor of Sorbonne, but the entrance was jammed with trash bins and traffic cones. I couldn’t even take a picture.

A small stree on Rue Saint-Jacques, Latin Quarter, Paris

Panthéon is located in the center of an oval plaza. We first walked to a small plaza in triangle shape at its back. Here sits a small church called Saint-Étienne-du-Mont. Several churches had been constructed on this location in the past 1500 years. The latest one was completed in 17th century to honor St. Geneviève, who in the legend protected Paris from destroyed by Huns. Her shrine is located in the church. Pascal and Jean Racine were also buried here. The building combines different architecture styles, rose window in Gothic and the nave in Renaissance. One of the most famous features in the church is the rood loft with delicate carvings left no surface untouched. It’s said to be one of kind in Europe. Unfortunately, we came to early, the church was not open yet.

Saint-Étienne-du-Mont, Latin Quarter, Paris

Those who have seen movie “Midnight in Paris” should recognize this location. Gil was sitting on those stairs, picked up by an old car and his fantasy time travel started there.

The side door of Saint-Étienne-du-Mont, Latin Quarter, Paris

The street next to Saint-Étienne-du-Mont, Latin Quarter, Paris

Place Emmanuel Levinas near Panthéon, Latin Quarter, Paris

We circled around the small street around the plaza and returned to the Panthéon. Panthéon was constructed at the end of the 18th century. It was originally planed to replace Abbey of St. Genevieve on the same site, but as the construction completed, it’s the time that French Revolution started. The church was repurposed as the place dedicated to the great intellectuals of France. Voltaire, Rousseau, Hugo, Zola, Marie Curie were all buried here. It’s a building in neoclassical style, with its façade modeling Pantheon in Rome. With its dome 70 meters in height, Foucault performed its famous Foucault pendulum experiment here in 1851 to demonstrate the rotation of the earth.

Panthéon, Latin Quarter, Paris

Look through Rue Soufflot from Panthéon, Latin Quarter, Paris

We strolled back along Rue Saint-Jacques as the street began to stir with life. We stopped for a coffee and picked up a few small souvenirs along the way.

Collège de France, Latin Quarter, Paris

Eglise St-Severin, Latin Quarter, Paris

By the time we returned to Notre-Dame, it was nearly 11:00 AM. A long queue of tourists waiting to climb the towers lined along the right side of the cathedral. Since we had two more nights on the Left Bank, there was still plenty of time.

Notre-Dame in autumn, the eastern side of the cathedral, Paris

Pope John Paul II statue and the South Rose Window, Notre-Dame, Paris

While my wife rested at the hotel, I headed out to scout the 6th arrondissement. Weaving through the narrow lanes behind our hotel, I soon reached Boulevard Saint-Germain. This stretch runs parallel to the Seine and serves as the main artery of the Left Bank; the commercial atmosphere here is noticeably more intense than in the Latin Quarter. I happened upon a Starbucks, I’d assumed a city so proud of its coffee culture wouldn’t have much of a market for it, but it turns out there are quite a few shops.

Boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris

Boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris

Continuing on to the Luxembourg Gardens, my first sight of the Medici Fountain, dappled in the shadows of the midday trees, was truly striking. Such beauty felt wrong to enjoy alone, so I hurried back to the hotel to bring my wife along.

We first grabbed lunch at Khao Thai near the hotel. Like most spots on the Left Bank, the tables were packed so tightly you could barely squeeze past. Their duck with tamarind was excellent. A quick tip: if you want plain water in Paris, remember to ask for “tap water.” Simply saying “water” will almost certainly result in a bottle appearing on your bill.

Canard au tamarins, Khao Thai on Rue Dauphine, Paris

The number of small shops tucked into the alleys flanking Boulevard Saint-Germain is seemingly endless, especially around the Marché St-Germain between the boulevard and the park. The pastry shops are particularly dazzling; high-end patisseries are spacious and bright, decorated more like jewelry boutiques. Famous names like Un Dimanche à Paris and Pierre Hermé always have queues out the door. After visiting a few, I realized that macarons aren’t exclusive to Ladurée, every shop sells its own version.

Pastry store near Marché Saint-Germain, Paris

A butcher store near Marché Saint-Germain, Paris

The Luxembourg Gardens were commissioned in 1615 by Marie de’ Medici, widow of King Henry IV. The Medici name carried immense weight in Renaissance Europe. Rising from the banking sector in Florence, the family’s influence permeated European royalty, religion, and politics. Beyond their wealth and power, they were renowned patrons of the arts, often called the godfathers of the Renaissance. I remember a sign we saw in Florence that read, “It is a pity many contemporary collectors lack the taste of the Medici family.” Queen Marie’s own life was a whirlwind of court intrigue, regency, and eventual exile by her own son; many even link her to the assassination of Henry IV.

Entering from the northeast, the first thing you encounter is the Medici Fountain. A long, narrow pond leads to the sculpture at the far end. Surrounded by greenery, with ducks and fish gliding through the water, the setting is incredibly serene. The fountain underwent major reconstruction in the 19th century, which is when the current statues were added. While the dappled light is beautiful to the eye, the harsh midday sun makes photography a challenge.

La fontaine Médicis in Jardin du Luxembourg, Paris

Despite the lush greenery and flowers, the Luxembourg Gardens isn’t designed to be secluded; instead, it features wide vistas and orderly rows of trees, giving it a grand, open feel, said to be modeled after the Pitti Palace in Florence. The Luxembourg Palace now serves as the seat of the French Senate. The green iron chairs around the large circular pond were nearly all occupied, mostly by locals. Many parents were helping their children launch model sailboats into the water. For a Friday afternoon, Parisians seemed remarkably leisurely—I later learned about the 35-hour work week; perhaps the weekend truly begins on Friday afternoon here.

Luxembourg Palace, Jardin du Luxembourg, Paris

The western side of the park features wooded areas and children’s playgrounds, offering everything from pony rides to rollerblading. Nearly a hundred sculptures are scattered throughout the grounds.

Statue in Jardin du Luxembourg, Paris

Statue in Jardin du Luxembourg, Paris

Near the northwest gate and the Musée du Luxembourg sits Angelina, a famous Parisian tea house. While the original is next to the Tuileries Garden, this branch is much smaller. Angelina is renowned for its hot chocolate and the noodle-like Mont Blanc. Wary of too much sweetness, we shared one Mont Blanc and a coffee.

Le Mont-Blanc, Angelina, near Musée du Luxembourg, Paris

Walking back along Rue Bonaparte, we soon arrived at the Église Saint-Sulpice. Construction began in the mid-17th century and spanned 130 years. Ultimately left unfinished due to funding issues, its north and south towers remain asymmetrical to this day. It is the second-largest church in Paris after Notre-Dame, though its western facade is far more austere. Many key plots from The Da Vinci Code unfold within these walls.

Église Saint-Sulpice, Paris

Fontaine Saint-Sulpice, Paris

Heading further north, we returned to the vibrant heart of the Left Bank: Saint-Germain-des-Prés. The area is most famous for its two legendary cafés, Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore. These spots were icons of early 20th-century literary and artistic history—you can practically point to a chair where Picasso sat or a table where Sartre dined. Of course, that was a century ago; today, they feel more like landmarks for tourists to capture a slice of that past life.

Across the street from Café de Flore is the Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, one of the oldest churches in Paris and the namesake of the district; Descartes is buried here.

Les Deux Magots, Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Paris

Saint-Germain-des-Prés at dusk, Paris

Back at the hotel, we had some time before dinner, so I went out to catch the city lights. The tourist sights in Paris are all pretty close; the walk from our hotel to the Louvre took barely fifteen minutes.

Institut de France and Pont des Arts with Notre-Dame at the background, Paris

Palais du Louvre at night, Paris

In the plaza before the Louvre stands the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel. From here, you can see the Obelisk at Place de la Concorde and the Arc de Triomphe at the far end of the Champs-Élysées. I waited quite a while for a clear shot without people in the frame. A cyclist rode past me and called out, “What a city!” Yes, what a city!

Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, Paris

2014.10.30OpenStack summit in Paris was held in early November, that’s why we went to Paris at this time of the year. We were worried about the weather because supposedly it’s the time that cold weather starts moving in and it sees more rain. However, it turned out to quite extraordinary – there were much less tourists in early November, leaves started turning yellow, and we were so lucky to have some abnormal warm days. The best of all, we didn’t miss the rain, but only once. Who said that Paris is most beautiful in the rain?

We planed 9 days in Paris, including the conference days. We thought it would be more than enough, but in end we didn’t have to time to go to places, such as Versailles or Monet’s Garden, let alone countless museums in the city.

The plane landed at Charles de Gaulle Airport at 9:30am. We called a taxi to go into the city. The road was crowded, it’s about 11 o’clock when we got to the hotel. We’d stay at Citadines Saint-Germain-des-Prés Paris for 3 nights. The hotel is located at the 6th arrondissement, right next to the Seine and across the street from the Pont Neuf. Within the walking distance to many attraction, the hotel is a perfect starting point to explore the Left Bank of Paris.

As usual, after we settled down, my wife stayed in the hotel to have some rest and I had a walk to know the neighborhood. Along the Seine and towards the direction of Notre Dame, after passing Fontaine Saint-Michel, I walked until I got to the Petit Pont. It’s 5th arrondissement here. On my left, it’s the Parvis Notre-Dame; on my right, it’s the center of Latin Quarter.

Turned right on Rue Saint-Jacques, there is a small street on the left hand side, named Rue Galande. It’s short and narrow, but some well preserved medieval houses and cellars can be found on this street. The street appears both in “Midnight in Paris” and “Before Sunset”.

Rue Galande, Latin Quarter, Paris

A restaurant near Rue Galande, Latin Quarter, Paris

On the left of the street, there is a small and humble church, Église Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre. In fact, it is one of the oldest churches in the city. It’s history can be traced to as early as the 13th century. It looks plain and even dilapidated, a stark contrast to Notre-Dame across the river.

Paroisse Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre, Latin Quarter, Paris

The garden north to the church is called Square René-Viviani. It’s just an ordinary garden except there is a 400-year-old locust tree in the garden. It’s said that that’s oldest planted tree in Paris. People enjoyed their lunch sitting on the lawn. There is a quite strange-looking fountain, called Saint Julien fountain, in the center of the square. which is built in 1995. This is a good place to overlook Notre-Dame across the river.

Square René-Viviani, Latin Quarter, Paris

Next to the garden is the famous Shakespeare & Company Bookstore. Located at the French cultural center, the bookstore’s focus is selling English-language literature. This is in fact not the old bookstore that Hemingway and Joyce spent a lot of time with. The current bookstore on the Left Bank was build in 1951, and inherited the original bookstore’s style and name. When I got there, Jimmy Page was there to meet his followers and signed his biography for them. At the end of moive “Midnight in Paris”, there are several shots of the bookstore.

Shakespeare & Company, Latin Quarter, Paris

Shakespeare & Company, Latin Quarter, Paris

Returned to the street directly facing the Petit Pont. This is a busy street with many visitors and locals. Rue Saint-Séverin is on the right side, but you won’t be able to find a hint of quietness and arty style in Rue Galande. There are a lot of souvenirs and restaurants. You are also taste Korean, Mediterranean or many other regions food here as well.

A cafe at the corner of Rue Dante and Rue Galande, Latin Quarter, Paris

Rue de la Huchette, Latin Quarter, Paris

I came back to the hotel. My wife and I had a lunch in a Cafe by the river. It’s 3pm now. We first walked around following my earlier route. When we returned to Shakespeare & Company Bookstore, Jimmy Page and many book shoppers had left. We had a chance to enter the bookstore. It’s dark and crowded, stacks and books were all over the place. It’s said that you can dig out some books that cannot be found elsewhere.

Walk way by the Siene between Pont Saint-Michel and Pont Neuf, Paris

Latin Quarter is an area between the 5th and the 6th arrondissements. Compared to the area around Place de la Concorde where we lived later, the later one is high-grade and luxury, but Latin Quarter is active and lively, bookstores, cafes and restaurants are everywhere. Locals are having coffee by the busy road, watching people coming by, totally ignore the dust and loudness on the street. The cost of living is lower because a lot of low to mid-end shops are packed here. With Paris’ oldest university, Sorbonne, and a number of other higher education institutes in the district, Latin Quarte has always been the place where students and intellectuals want to hang out. Even today, when many quirky bookshops have given way to the chain clothing stores, the name alone evokes images of romantic and unconventional old Paris.

Île de la Cité divides the Seine into two at this area. Passed the Pont Neuf, it’s Notre-Dame. At 4pm, visitors waiting for entering the cathedral were still winding through the entire square. We walked along the river to the back of Notre-Dame. Square Jean XXIII is a quiet and peaceful park. From here, one can see the spire of Notre-Dame and the flying buttresses in long and beautiful shapes. One of major scenes in “Midnight in Paris” was shot here.

Square Jean XXIII at the back of Notre-Dame, Paris

Fontaine de l’Archevêché against Notre-Dame at Square Jean XXIII, Paris

Pont de l’Archevêché at the east of Notre-Dame is the narrowest bridge on the Seine. Every bridge on the Seine has love locks, but Pont de l’Archevêché and Pont des Arts are two bridges that have enormous amount of them. So many love locks with so much weight are put on the bridge so that it creates a danger to crumble the bridge. Paris government had to remove them all together to save the bridge, but soon they came back again.

Love-locks on Pont de l\'Archevêché and Norre-Dame, Paris

A painter near Pont de l\'Archevêché, Paris

Bouquinistes by the Siene and Notre-Dame, Paris

It passed 5pm when we returned to the hotel. One good thing in practical sense about our hotel is that free hot water is provided at the lobby. You cannot always drink coffee by the road. It’s still the golden hour even in the city. I grabbed my cameras and tripod and headed out again.

The dome of Institut de France is not the grandest compared to other great domes in Paris, but I found that some best pictures of mine were taken here. The following photo is selected because it has all the elements, the sunset, the Eiffel Tower, Institut de France, Pont des Arts and the western end of Île de la Cité.

The western end of Île de la Cité, Institut de France and Pont des Arts, Paris

Institut de France at night, Paris

Pont Neuf in fact is not “new”. On the contrary, it’s the oldest bridge on the Seine. The bridge has to sections that connect the Left Bank, Île de la Cité and the Right Bank. The body of the bridge was lighten up during the night and reflected in the river – a beautiful scene for photography.

The Seine and Pont Neuf at nightfall, Paris

After dark fell, I took some random shots in the streets of Île de la Cité.

A restaurant at night, Paris

A restaurant at Rue de la Colombe, Paris

We had our lunch at Chez Fernand, 5 minutes walk from our hotel. It serves French cuisine. Tasted good.

Escargots, snails cooked with pesto, Chez Fernand, Paris

Boeuf Bourguignon, Chez Fernand, Paris