The Last Place on Earth – 准备

这一篇我会介绍一下我们在衣服和照相器材上的准备。

衣服

我们在南极的时候,天气一直相对不错,气温大多在零度以上,所以我们的感觉是东西带了太多,很多没有用上。但是南极的天气以多变著称,准备得时候还是要考虑最坏的情况。

在南极所需的衣物和滑雪的非常类似。订下行程之后,我们几乎每个星期都要去REI购物。读的几篇文章都提到不要穿纯棉的衣服,因为纯棉的衣服吸汗后湿气不容易散发,会感觉很冷。丝绸和尼龙的织品就没有这个问题。另一项建议就是要穿多层的薄衣服,一般三到五层。这样不但在天气变化的时候容易增减,而且多层的衣服不要很厚就可以达到保暖的效果。在登陆的时候,衣服外面还要穿防水的大衣(Parka)和救生衣,衣服轻便一些上下登陆艇(Zodiac)比较方便。

Visitors Wearing Parka and Life Vest on a Zodiac
Visitors Wearing Parka and Life Vest on a Zodiac

以下是在南极大概需要的衣物,

  • 防水的裤子:防水的裤子是必需的。几乎所有的登陆都是在岸边下Zodiac,踩着水上岸(Wet Landing)。
  • 保暖内衣裤:
  • 绒衣绒裤(Fleece):我觉得这是我们带的衣服中最有用一种。在船上我几乎一直在穿同一件绒衣。
  • 手套:一副厚的保暖,一副薄的照相的时候用。
  • 袜子:一薄一厚可以穿两套。
  • 帽子、围脖和围巾:刮风的时候需要。
  • 墨镜:
  • Goggle:一般情况下不太需要,但是有风雪的时候很管用。Goggle的问题是容易起雾,所以最好是涂防雾膜。如果带眼镜,可以选注明OTG的Goggle。
  • 防风的外衣:这主要是在甲板上穿,海上风大的时候还是很冷。至于登陆时用的防水的外衣,一般船上都会提供,足够厚实,自己就不用带了。
  • 胶靴:船上同样提供半膝高的胶靴供登陆时使用。自己不需要带,当然除非你觉得自己的靴子好看。不过要知道,靴子不但要踩水,还经常要走过企鹅的排泄物。
  • 防水的登山鞋:在南极其实不需要。我们在岸上一直穿着靴子。

说起来好像带了很多,但是我们在旅行时还是没有托运行李。行李随身携带既省时间又不会出差错。

All Our Baggage
All Our Baggage

摄影器材

大家都说照片的好坏取决于摄影师而不是相机,但是对于去南极这样的机会,你绝对要带上你的最好的照相器材。

Big lens
Big lens

我带了下面这些和摄影有关的器材,

  • Canon 5D Mark II
  • Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM
  • Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM
  • Canon 2x EF Extender II
  • Canon PowerShot S95
  • 三角架 – Slik Sprint Pro II GM Tripod
  • 滤镜:GND, ND, Polarizer. 我只在TDP和TDF两个国家公园用了这些滤镜。在南极的时候并没有用。
  • Compact Flash:我一共带了大概120G的CF卡。所有在CF卡里的照片都备份到netbook上,CF卡上的备份都没有删。我们最后大约用了70G,照了3000张左右的照片。
  • Asus Eee Netbook:我们在每次旅行时都带着这个netbook。主要是因为体积小、很轻,适合用来做备份,但是用来看照片还是太慢。
  • 相机包 – Lowepro Flipside 400 Camera Backpack
  • Kindle:我发现做邮轮的时候读书最有效率,平常要花3个月的书4天就看完了。
  • 相机的防雨罩 – Canon ERC-E4S Rain Cover
  • 相机包的防雨罩 – Gregory Accessories Rain Cover
  • 清理镜头的工具 – Lens Pen, Air Blaster

相机的防水非常重要。尤其是海水对相机损害更大。我们在南极的时候运气好,没有碰到风浪或是雨雪天气,特地买的相机包的防雨罩根本没有用上。但是有一次登陆时,我还是用了相机包自带的防雨罩。佳能相机专门的防雨罩也只用了一次。其他的时候如果有小的风雪,我只是注意用身体挡一下,经常用手套擦拭一下外壳,相机和镜头自身的密封还是不错的。当然,如果遇到天气不好,情况就会完全不同。乘Zodiac的时候要把相机包放在艇里面,而不是背在身后。一定要注意保持相机和镜头的干燥,否则相机进水停止工作就追悔末及了。

佳能的S95是最好的傻瓜相机之一,非常适合做旅行中的记录和摄像,而且它是我唯一携带的闪光灯。在照人的相片中,如果背景很亮,我总是习惯上把闪光灯打开,让脸看起来不会很黑。回来看照片的时候才发现,在南极这种地方一般不需要这么做。地上的积雪反射的光线已经足够的亮了。而且,在离野生动物很近的地方也不应该用闪光灯。

如果再去南极一次有什么在要改进的呢?我一定会再多带一个相机,照相的时候经常需要改换镜头,非常麻烦费时,两个相机就可以避免这种情况。

我会更多的使用三脚架。我们每次出国旅行的时候带的都是Silk的脚架。它的重量轻、体积小,很适合旅游时的摄影所需。不过碰到比如星轨这种需要长曝光的情况,或是用长焦的镜头,这个三脚架就有些捉襟见肘。在南极的时候我一直没有用三脚架,5D Mark II 的高感性能和佳能镜头的防抖功能可以处理大部分的光线条件。但是在摄像的时候,我觉得有个三脚架效果会更好。

Another reason to bring a tripod
Another reason to bring a tripod

至于说更长焦的镜头,它们实在是太贵了。在南极,你可以走到离野生动物相对很近的地方。对我这样的摄影爱好者来说,手端稳,小白(70-200mm f/2.8L)加2x就足够了。

Two Chinstraps
Two Chinstraps
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The Last Place on Earth – 计划

对大多数人来说,去南极不但是一次梦想中的旅程,也是一次昂贵的冒险。从行程的价格到需要准备的衣服和照相器材,以及计划行程时花费的时间,都比一般的旅游要高出很多。这里是一些我们的经验供大家参考。

旅行的时间

每年大约有三万人乘船或飞机登上南极大陆。绝大多数的旅行团只在11月中到来年2月中的三个月中出发。11月底左右去南极的价格相对便宜,而且大部分的积雪还没有被践踏,干净漂亮;但是初夏的南极还十分寒冷,出现风雪天气的几率比后面两个月要高。在一月以后的夏末,气温已经开始下降,但是因为整个夏天积雪的融化,船只可以开到更南边的海域。

Brown Bluff
Brown Bluff

对于第一次去南极旅行的旅游者来说,最好的时间还是从12月底到一月底。我们在南极的时候,气温很少低于零度,从来没有遇到过暴风雪。因为天气温和,这也是野生动物最活跃的一个月。小企鹅刚刚出壳不久,到处可以见到它们嗷嗷待哺的身影。当然,这段时间不但票价最贵,也最抢手。所有的船舱常常在七月八月的时候就订满了。

船只的选择

在南极海域航行与在加勒比海度假完全不同。选择行程的时候应该注意,所使用的船只必须是专门为在极地的冰封海域里航行所设计的。船只的豪华舒适不但不那么重要,甚至是一个缺点。因为大的邮轮根本无法进入很多南极的海湾和海峡,更不要提让旅客登陆(Landing)了,而登陆是南极旅游必不可少的一个项目。我听说有些邮轮只是带游客远远地看一眼南极大陆。有些船因为游客太多,游客只能分批上岸。前一批回来了,下一批才能登陆。这样的南极体验自然要打很大的折扣。船小的缺点是在风浪大的时候会更加颠簸,更容易晕船。

Antarctic Dream and Ocean Nova
Antarctic Dream and Ocean Nova

我们在计划行程时主要考虑了这几个旅游团,

这几个公司的船基本上都是由极地考察和探险的船只改造的,一般承载100人左右。我们的乘坐的是M/V Antarctic Dream,最多承载80名游客和40名船员。她以前在智利海军服役,船名为“Piloto Pardo”。这个名字的来历还有些讲究。Ernest Shackleton在1916年试图横穿南极大陆失败,船员被困在Elephant Island。经过奇迹般的努力,Shackleton在智利找到一位拖船的船长,营救了所有的船员。我们的船就是为了纪念这位船长,Luis Pardo,而命名的。

行程

南极邮轮的全程从4天到20天不等。因为南极半岛的天气相对温暖,野生动物较多,游览的行程主要都在半岛附近。一般船只会在这里行驶4到5天,根据天气情况,每天登陆两次。各个公司的路线和登陆地点都大致相同,但是也有一些小的区别。比如我们到南极的第一天就穿过冰山聚集的Antarctic Sound到达位于Weddell Sea的登陆点,多数公司并不走这条线。如果想看到更多种类的企鹅,比如国王企鹅(King Penguin)和马可罗尼企鹅(Macaroni Penguin),你就要寻找包括马尔维纳斯群岛(又称福克兰群岛)和南乔治亚岛的路线。如果天气允许,有些船会向南驶入南极圈。风景也许并没有什么不同,但它会为完美的旅程添加更靓丽的一笔。

另一项需要考虑的就是如何到达和离开南极。传统的南极旅游都是乘船来回各两天穿过著名的德雷克海峡。如果晕船严重或是行程很紧,现在很多公司都开始提供飞过德雷克海峡的选择,乘飞机只要两个小时。不过,我觉得缺少德雷克海峡的南极体验是不完整的。这也是我们选择Antarctic Dream的原因之一,他们的项目是一次乘飞机一次坐船。这其中我更喜欢船去飞回的行程,(因为其它的计划,我们实际上选择了相反的方向),你可以利用两天的时间熟悉邮轮和天气,通过各种讲座更多地了解南极,你对南极的期待也会越来越高。而南极绝对不会让你失望!

Antarctic Dream Itinerary
Antarctic Dream Itinerary

总的来说,我们对这次行程非常满意。我们计划登陆八次,实际登陆六次,每次大约一个多小时到两个多小时,看到了很多企鹅、海鸟、海豹和鲸鱼。其中穿过的几个海峡,比如Lemaire Channel和Antarctic Sound,更是美得一尘不染,令人窒息。

价格

根据不同的季节、路线,以及不同档次的邮轮和船舱,南极旅行的价格差别很大。从南美出发、10天左右的经典路线,一般起价是5000美元(2012)。如果是乘飞机,不管是一次还是两次,价格都要加倍。对低价位的船舱,你应该问清船舱是否有独立的洗手间、是否有窗户。如果是单独旅行,你可以和其他人共享一个船舱,一般不需要多付钱。

和买飞机票不同的是,提前预订的舱位价格是最贵的,而最好的价格往往出现在出发前几天。当然,热门的路线可能早早就被订光了。我在Ushuaia看到的最低价是3600美元,不过除非是正好在附近旅行的背包客,一般游客不太可能拿到这个价位。出发前的三个星期,我们的船把最低价位的船舱价格降低了一半。如果船票已经订好了,你可以和公司商量免费升级你的船舱或者免费加人。

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The Last Place on Earth – 南极

Lemaire Channel
Lemaire Channel

秘鲁回来,我们就开始计划下一趟行程。目标很快就锁定在位于东非的坦桑尼亚和南极上,最终我们选择了南极。去过南极之后,我们就可以自豪地说,“我们到过了地球上所有的大陆”。

南极是这个星球上最高、最冷、最干燥、风最大的地方。它常常被人们称为世界的尽头、最后被征服的大陆。登上南极也成为很多人终生的梦想。这样的行程需要仔细地计划。我们很快就找到一些游记,不但介绍了旅游公司和具体行程,还包括了衣服的准备和照相器材等各种细节。既然我们要旅行这么遥远,在行程中我们也包括了智利和阿根廷的一些著名景点。

在这16天的旅程中,我们从最寒冷的大陆走到布宜诺斯艾利斯的盛夏;我们亲身体验了德雷克海峡、麦哲伦海峡,那些只在地理教材上出现的名字;我们为上万只的企鹅和绝世的美景所倾倒;也又一次为阿蒙森、斯科特伟大的探险经历所激励。希望在下面几篇的游记中,我能够记录和传达我们的兴奋和感动。

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Colorado Fall Color – Maroon Bells

2011.9.26Maroon Bells is one of the most photographed places in the world. It is the very reason that we came to Colorado at this time.

It took about half an hour to drive from Aspen to Maroon Lake. It’s 6:30am when I parked the car. There were already 40 to 50 photographers at the lake side. It was a clear day, a day to produce good pictures but hardly extraordinary. There was no cloud at all to make the sky more interesting; and the wind made it very difficult to get a perfect reflection. I probably should have come much earlier, when the sun just reached the tip of the mountain, the color would have been a little warmer. One big challenge to shoot Maroon Bells is how to handle the dark shadow at the left side, which won’t disappear until noon. At the beginning, the shadow covered quite a large area. After 8am, I moved to the left side of the lake so the shadow area in the frame could be minimized.

Maroon Bells
Maroon Bells
Maroon Bells
Maroon Bells

In the summer, you can only drive your car to Maroon Lake before 9:00am. The same rule applied to weekends after September, but on weekday, there is no such control. I finished shooting on 9:30am, went back to hotel and took my wife to Maroon Bells. It is a place where the real thing is more beautiful than in the pictures.

Maroon Bells
Maroon Bells
Maroon Bells
Maroon Bells
Photographers at Maroon Bells
Photographers at Maroon Bells

We had lunch at Hickory House Ribs Restaurant in down. It is a popular place. Its BBQ won many national awards.

Hickory House Ribs Restaurant
Hickory House Ribs Restaurant

We took a different way coming back to Denver. We continued on Hwy. 82 and turned to Interstate Hwy. 70 at Glenwood Springs. The highway cut through the Rocky Mountains and run along the Colorado River. Before reaching the Great Plains, there are several high passed and tunnels, including the famous Eisenhower Tunnel. The construction of Highway 70 in West Colorado is considered to be one of engineering marvels. It was a thrilling driving experience we didn’t expect that an Interstate Highway can offer. Especially at the Glenwood canyon section, the view was breathtaking.

The highway also passes several ski resorts with beautify green valleys and European style hotels. 70 miles west of Denver at Silverthorne, there is an outlet. We had some spare time to do some shopping.

Silverthorne outlets
Silverthorne outlets

The evening flight took us home. The 3-day trip is only a short excursion to us. We were prepared for the big trip to come.

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Colorado Fall Color – to Aspen

2011.9.2510-minute drive to the west of Colorado Spring, Garden of the Gods Park is the most popular public park in the region. It is worth spending half a day walking the trails and admire the nature’s magic creation. I had a early morning walk right after sunrise, but for only an hour. There was not enough time to cover the park and capture the dramatic rock formations with my camera.

Garden of the Gods Park, Entrance
Garden of the Gods Park, Entrance
Garden of the Gods Park
Garden of the Gods Park

We had several choices going from Colorado Spring to Aspen. We could take Hwy. 24 to Buena Vista, go north on Hwy. 24 then turn west on Hwy. 82. This is the shortest path that takes only 4 hours. Another option was to take Hwy. 50 to Gunnison, then turn to Hwy. 135 through Crested Butte. It’s one of the most scenic drives in Colorado but will take at least 7 hours to get to Aspen. To keep the option open, we took Hwy. 50 first because we could still go back to Hwy. 24 at Salida.

Two hours later, we sit in a McDonald restaurant at Salida. It’s almost noon time, we decided to take the shorter route. It was a good decision, we stopped countless times for photos on Hwy. 24 and 82. If we had gone to Crested Butte, I am not sure if we could reach Aspen by night.

Salida
Salida

As we turned north on Hwy 285, the sunshine was very bright, but when we got closer to Hwy. 82, the sky turned cloudy and it’s almost like raining.

A Road-Side Ranch close to Buena Vista
A Road-Side Ranch close to Buena Vista
Clear Creek Reservoir
Clear Creek Reservoir
Twin Lakes
Twin Lakes

Hwy. 82 is narrow and winding but the photo opportunities were abundant.

A Creek along Hwy. 82
A Creek along Hwy. 82
A Farm on Hwy.82
A Farm on Hwy.82

At 12,095 ft (3,687 m), Independence Pass is the highest place we have been visited, surpassing Cusco in the Andes Mountains. It is also a continental divide. In September, vegetation has all lost its green color.

The Road Leading to the Independence Pass
The Road Leading to the Independence Pass
Independence Pass
Independence Pass

Driving for another half an hour, we finally reached Aspen. It’s already 5pm. Aspen is named because of the abundance of aspen trees in the area. These trees decorate the surrounding mountains with bright yellow color in the fall and make them dream settings for landscape photographers. Aspen itself is a lovely small town with exquisite shops and upscale restaurants.

Aspen
Aspen
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Colorado Fall Color – Rocky Mtn. NP

2011.9.24We didn’t plan to go to Rocky Mountain National Park because we knew we wouldn’t have time to reach the west side of the park with more majestic views, but after spending the morning at Denver, we found that we still had several hours left for the day. Boulder is only 30 miles north to Denver. Except its main street, which is a typical suburban shopping area, there was not much to see, so we didn’t make any stop. After another 50 miles, we were at Estes Park, a small town next to the park.

Estes Park is crowded place because a lot of people stay there for the night while visiting the park. Entering the national park, we stopped at Beaver Meadows Visitor Center. It’s almost 3pm. The ranger told us we’d have enough time to see the park’s east side and walk several trails. We first took Bear Lake Rd. to its end. It’s very cloudy at the time. The sky was featureless. We turned back almost right away and only took a couple of pictures along the way.

Bear Lake Rd., Rocky Mountain National Park
Bear Lake Rd., Rocky Mountain National Park
Bear Lake Rd., Rocky Mountain National Park
Bear Lake Rd., Rocky Mountain National Park
Moose Family, Bear Lake Rd., Rocky Mountain National Park
Moose Family, Bear Lake Rd., Rocky Mountain National Park
Long Lens on Moose, Bear Lake Rd., Rocky Mountain National Park
Long Lens on Moose, Bear Lake Rd., Rocky Mountain National Park

The road was winding up after we tuned to Fall River Road. We stopped at one place that overlooks Moraine Park mountain range. There was a very professional-looking photographer who had taken the best spot and was patiently waiting for the sunset. We didn’t have that luxury so I took several shots and kept on driving.

Moraine Park Mountain Range, Rocky Mountain National Park
Moraine Park Mountain Range, Rocky Mountain National Park

We left the loop and turned to the Old Fall River Road. After about 1 mile, a short walk on Alluvial Fan trail led us to a waterfall. The waterfall was not very impressive, but on the trail, we saw several tiny chipmunks standing on tree twigs and eating fruits from the tree. They were the cutest animals we’ve ever seen.

Water Fall at Alluvial Fan, Rocky Mountain National Park
Water Fall at Alluvial Fan, Rocky Mountain National Park
The Cutest Chipmunk, Rocky Mountain National Park
The Cutest Chipmunk, Rocky Mountain National Park

We returned to the loop but soon found the road was jammed. The park had an event at that night called “Elk bugling”. We felt that we had seen enough Elks in Banff, so we turned back and left the park through the way we came.

Just after we passed Estes Park, when the sun dropped below the horizon, the sky suddenly turned clear and the color became very sublet. I believe that photographer could make some good pictures. It’s something we as tourists cannot afford, waiting on the best location for the best moment. We booked the hotel at Colorado Spring, which was still 3 hours away.

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Colorado Fall Color – Denver

2011.9.24We arrived at Denver in a late flight the day earlier. The next morning, our trip started with a city tour of Denver downtown. 16th street mall was still quiet at 10am in the morning. We went to see the State Capitol first.

View from Colorado State Capitol
View from Colorado State Capitol
Colorado State Capitol
Colorado State Capitol

The 16th Street Mall is an 1.5-mile long shopping area opened in 1982. Besides all kinds of restaurants and shops, the tree-lined street also hosts various live performance and exquisite squares.

Double Daughter\'s Salotto, 16th Street Mall
Double Daughter\'s Salotto, 16th Street Mall
Writer\'s Square, 16th Street Mall
Writer\'s Square, 16th Street Mall
Tree-Lined Street, 16th Street Mall
Tree-Lined Street, 16th Street Mall
Overlook the State Capitor from the 16th Street Mall
Overlook the State Capitor from the 16th Street Mall

After walking 2 hours, it’s nice to take the free MallRide bus back to where we started. We then went to Larimer Square. This short street is a historical downtown district. While the 16th Street Mall has mostly chain stores and restaurants, Larimer Square offers some authenticity of city’s past.

Larimer Square
Larimer Square
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L.A. Excursion

Before Thanksgiving, we had a short excursion to L.A. We stopped at Bakersfield for the night and came back by 101 the next day. Driving in fog at night was no fun. Luckily, we only got some fog around Bakersfield this time.

Carlitos Gardel
Carlitos Gardel
L.A. Street View
L.A. Street View
Carpinteria
Carpinteria
Santa Barbara Beach
Santa Barbara Beach
Santa Barbara Street View
Santa Barbara Street View
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秘鲁 – 重游库斯科

2011.7.10我们起了个早乘船返回Puerto Maldonado。今天我们要经库斯科飞往Juliaca。下了船,Inotawa的车已经在码头等我们了。离开Puerto Maldonado前,我们必须去城里取一些现金,因为在利马的时候是周末,无法到银行汇款,这次行程我们还没有付给旅行社钱。时间有一点儿紧,但是就是这么巧,离开码头不久,我们的车就在爬坡的时候熄火了。幸好导游很快就找到另一个旅行团的车也要进城,于是我们搭上车,开了半个多小时到达离市中心不远的地方。导游叫了一辆电动三轮车,有点儿象国内原来的蹦蹦车,这是Puerto Maldonado最主要的交通工具,坐上一次也算是一项旅游经历,不过我们当时都很着急,没有顾上想这些。ATM就在中心广场的一侧。当天好像是一个军事节日,穿着各式制服的军人们在广场集合列队走过。可惜的是,我没有什么心情拍照。

Motocarroes outside of Puerto Maldonado Airport
Motocarroes outside of Puerto Maldonado Airport

其实到达机场的时候飞机还有30分钟才起飞。经过半个小时飞行,飞机准时到达库斯科机场。我们在登机口等待去往Juliaca的飞机。可是在起飞时间快到的时候,我们却发现这个飞机是飞往利马的。询问的LAN的工作人员我们才得知,Juliaca当地发生了罢工,一部分机场设施被破坏,所有的飞机只有在早晨才允许在Juliaca机场降落和起飞。我们的飞机提前3个小时就出发了。问题是在这以前,从来没有人告诉我们这一变化。在Puerto Maldonado的时候,LAN的柜台一定已经知道我们转乘的飞机根本就不存在,但是他们还是为我们确认了飞机和座位。我们想过乘汽车去Juliaca和Puno,因为我们实在不想错过第二天在的的喀喀湖(Lake Titicaca)的项目。不过我们从Juliaca飞回Lima的Tara Air航空公司说不清楚他们的飞机能不能飞。想到有可能被困在Juliaca无法回家,我们还是决定在库斯科住下,第二天直接返回利马。

我们又在El Dorado San Augustin Hotel住下。出发前选的一个餐馆正在关门装修。为确保不再象上次一样选错地方,我们还是回到Chicha吃晚餐。

Cuy Pequinés
Cuy Pequinés
Adobo
Adobo

吃过晚饭,我在库斯科的中心广场周围照了一些夜景。因为库斯科的海拔,太阳落山后,气温下降很快。七月是秘鲁的冬季,库斯科夜间的最低气温在零度左右。

Night Scene of Plaza de Armas
Night Scene of Plaza de Armas
Night Scene of Plaza de Armas
Night Scene of Plaza de Armas

去亚马逊之前,我们在库斯科只呆了多半天的时间。错过的的喀喀湖的行程让我们有更充分的时间游览库斯科。第二天一早,我们首先来到San Cristobal教堂。这座教堂位于库斯科到萨克萨瓦曼之间的半山腰上。它的设计非常简单,但是从教堂前的广场可以俯瞰库斯科城的全貌。沿着石板铺路的狭窄小巷,一路从城里走来,小巷两侧的民宅颜色丰富鲜明,很有情趣。

A Cat at Cusco
A Cat at Cusco
Cusco
Cusco
Cusco
Cusco

Regocijo广场紧挨着中心广场。周围的旅店、餐馆和咖啡店和库斯科其它的地方相比多了一些现代气息。我们先是在一个咖啡店喝了一些饮料,又在Inka Grill吃了最后一顿午餐。

Plaza Regocijo
Plaza Regocijo
La Merced Church and Convent
La Merced Church and Convent
A University on Plaza de Armas
A University on Plaza de Armas

我们当天下午离开库斯科,在利马机场等了7个小时转机回旧金山。巧的是我们在机场碰到在亚马逊一同游览Tres Chimbadas湖的两个美国人。他们早几天去了的的喀喀湖,因为飞机都在早上,根本不知道罢工的事。他们安慰我们说,的的喀喀湖感觉太商业化,是他们一行中最不喜欢的一站。

因为纳斯卡线和秘鲁北部的名胜离我们的路线太远,并不在我们的计划之内。不过我们的秘鲁之行已经足够的丰富多彩,令人回味。也许有一天,我们会重返这个神秘的国度。

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