Writing travelogues rarely keeps pace with the speed of travel itself, so there is no need to obsess over chronological order. Since I am writing about Iceland, I will continue with the journal of my trek through the Icelandic Highlands.
Returning to Iceland after more than five years, Keflavík Airport seems largely unchanged, though it lacks the sense of freshness it once had, likely due to the wear and tear of heavy tourism.
I took the airport shuttle into the city and met up with my friends at Bus Hostel Reykjavik. This hostel offers budget-friendly dormitory-style rooms for six to eight people and is conveniently located near the domestic airport and bus terminal. The lobby is bright and clean, with luggage lockers available, though their limited number means they book up quickly. There are no restaurants around; the vending machines in the lobby offer only basic snacks.
After settling in and preparing my pack for the next day, I walked into town for dinner. Over the last five years, Reykjavík hasn’t changed much, though the quality of Asian restaurants seems to have improved significantly. I stopped by a few landmarks on the way.
Due to jet lag, I woke up early the next morning. I grabbed a coffee and sat in the lobby. As the sun rose, a brilliant dawn filled the windows. The lobby was quiet, and I had this peaceful morning all to myself.
Our group left the hostel around six in the morning and walked to the bus station. The Highland bus departs at 7:00 AM, taking about four hours to reach the trailhead at Landmannalaugar. Compared to the mountain huts on the Highlands, bus tickets are usually plentiful; there is no rush to buy them until your hut reservations are confirmed.
Heading east out of the city along the Ring Road, we reached Hella in about two hours for a quick break. The bakery near the parking lot offered an impressive selection; I bought two sandwiches. It’s my food for the next two days.
The bus turned around at Hella and soon drove onto Route 26, truly beginning our venture into the Highlands. Route 26 is paved, but half an hour later, we transitioned onto F225, which turned into a dirt and gravel road. These “F-Roads” are the primary pathway in the Highland, mostly unpaved, open only during the summer months, and requiring a 4×4 vehicle for safe passage.
We crossed several streams along the way. Crossing rivers is the main obstacle to driving in the Highlands; it requires not only high ground clearance and elevated exhaust intakes but also experienced eyes for the right crossing point. The streams on F225 are manageable for larger SUVs, with the only tricky part being a river near the end of the route. Many travelers choose not to cross it, instead parking their vehicles and walking to the camp site.
After two hours of jolting along, the Highland bus arrived at Landmannalaugar at 11:00 AM. From here, we begin our four-day, 55-kilometer journey across the Icelandic Highlands.
