Alaska – Anchorage to Fairbanks

2012.8.28~29From Anchorage to Fairbanks, we would take Glenn Highway (AK-1) and then Richardson Highway (AK-4 and AK-2). We’d go to Denali National Park later in our trip, At that time, we would go back to Anchorage by the shorter route, AK-3, to complete a loop.

The first 40 miles of the Glenn Highway is the only road access to Anchorage from the north. After this section of the busy road, as we turned east after passing Palmer, the vehicles were getting fewer and fewer. The highway runs along the south side of the Alaska Range and, for the most part, along the Matanuska River. The road is winding and climbs over Eureka Summit at 3,332 ft. There are many pullout places for you to view the beautify valley created by the receding Matanuska Glacier.

Mountain range by the Glenn Highway, Alaska
Mountain range by the Glenn Highway, Alaska
Matanuska Glacier, Alaska
Matanuska Glacier, Alaska

The 180-mile Glenn Highway took us almost 5 hours. We stayed over night at Caribou Hotel in Glennallen. Some travelers gave low rating to the hotel, but we found it to be nice and most importantly clean, and the front desk was very helpful too. It’s not cheap, but this is in the middle of nowhere, I don’t think you should expect full facilities.

Mount Drum, Glennallen, Alaska
Mount Drum, Glennallen, Alaska
Caribou Hotel, Glennallen, Alaska
Caribou Hotel, Glennallen, Alaska

The next morning, I went back 10 miles along the highway and found the beautify lake we passed by the early night. The view was wonderful in the sunrise.

A lake in Sunrise, near Glennallen, Alaska
A lake in Sunrise, near Glennallen, Alaska

After having some instant noodles as our breakfast, we were on our way at 9:30am. After 2 miles, we turned left onto the Richardson Highway (AK-4). The highway cut through the Alaska Range at its east end, the view continued to be breathtaking.

Richardson Highway (AK-4), Alaska
Richardson Highway (AK-4), Alaska
Richardson Highway (AK-4), Alaska
Richardson Highway (AK-4), Alaska
Trans-Alaska Pipeline, Richardson Highway (AK-2), Alaska
Trans-Alaska Pipeline, Richardson Highway (AK-2), Alaska

AK-4 meets AK-2 at Delta Junction. There are several military bases around the area. Driving through the town, we surprisingly saw a sign as “Chinese Food”. We decided to give it a try. Luckily, it’s eatable. It’s about 3pm, we were 100 miles away from Fairbanks. As we had passed Alaska Range, the view along the road is less impressive.

15 miles south-east to Fairbanks, lies a small city, North Pole, Alaska. After driving the whole day, it felt good to see a meaningful city. Thanks for city’s name, a gift shop named Santa Claus House becomes a popular attraction. We made a stop at the store. It’s a nice place. There was a Santa taking pictures with visitors all the time.

Santa Claus\' House, North Pole, Alaska
Santa Claus\' House, North Pole, Alaska

We reached Fairbanks at around 6pm. We would stay two nights in the city.

0评论

Alaska – Seward to Anchorage

2012.8.27~28The second day morning, we did some souvenir shopping and had a walk in the Waterfront Park before setting off to the Exit Glacier.

Waterfront Park, Seward, Alaska
Waterfront Park, Seward, Alaska
4th Ave., Seward, Alaska
4th Ave., Seward, Alaska

Exit Glacier is the only part of Kenai Fjords National Park that can be accessed by road. It is one of tens of glaciers descending from the Harding Icefield, which covers most of the Kenai Peninsula. From the parking lot, the 3-mile round trip trail can take visitors to the edge of the glacier and the vista point that offers panoramic view of the glacier by the outwash plain. The trail is well maintained and easy to walk. My parents had no problem walking to the wall of ice.

Exit Glacier, Kenai Peninsula, Alaska
Exit Glacier, Kenai Peninsula, Alaska
Exit Glacier, Kenai Peninsula, Alaska
Exit Glacier, Kenai Peninsula, Alaska
Cottonwood forest at Exit Glacier, Kenai Peninsula, Alaska
Cottonwood forest at Exit Glacier, Kenai Peninsula, Alaska

We left Exit Glacier at 2pm and on our way to Anchorage. We made several stops, such as Bear Creek, on AK-9 and tried to watch Alaska Salmon migration, but eventually we had to go west onto the Sterling Highway until Russian River. There is a large campground by the river. . We walked down to the river level. The water is clear and the condition is excellent for sport fishing. Thousands of salmons swam up the stream to the Russian Lakes where they spawn. The part we went to might be towards the end of the salmon runs. The fish had transformed into deep red color and a lot of them were already dead.

Russian River sport fishing, Alaska
Russian River sport fishing, Alaska

Returning to the Seward Highway, we had no plan for the rest of the day. We drove leisurely and enjoyed the sunset on this beautiful scenic drive.

Near the junction of Seward Highway and the Sterling Highway, Alaska
Near the junction of Seward Highway and the Sterling Highway, Alaska
By the Seward Highway near Girdwood, Alaska
By the Seward Highway near Girdwood, Alaska

The next day morning, I got up early to try my luck of viewing Mt. McKinley from Anchorage. I drove west along the Northern Light Blvd. After passing the Earthquake Park, there was a parking lot by the Cook Inlet. It is 150 miles south to Mt. McKinley. They day was clear with a little haze. I could easily see Mt. Foraker on the left and Mt. McKinley on the right. At the height of 20,320 ft., it’s the highest peak of Northern America.

Overlook Mt. McKinley from Anchorage, Alaska
Overlook Mt. McKinley from Anchorage, Alaska
Anchorage Skyline, Alaska
Anchorage Skyline, Alaska

Anchorage is a not a big town. The downtown district is taken by souvenir stores, restaurants and a shopping mall. You can pretty much cover them in a half day on foot.

Anchorage Downtown, Alaska
Anchorage Downtown, Alaska
Historic City Hall, Anchorage, Alaska
Historic City Hall, Anchorage, Alaska
Anchorage, Alaska
Anchorage, Alaska
Resolution Park, Anchorage
Resolution Park, Anchorage

We had a lunch at VIP Korean restaurant. The food was excellent, especially to my parents who do not enjoy western dishes. After lunch, we resupplied at Walmart and leave for the second biggest city of Alaska, Fairbanks.

VIP Korean Restaurant, Anchorage, Alaska
VIP Korean Restaurant, Anchorage, Alaska
2评论

Alaska – Kenai Peninsula

2012.8.25~26We went to Alaska with my parents last September. Until I started booked the flights, I realized that, although at the same side of the country, Alaska is quite far from California. Direct flights were very few. We landed at Anchorage airport at 4:40pm. After 40 minutes, we finally got our car and on our way to Seward.

The Seward Highway (AK-1) is the only road leaving Anchorage to the south. Passed Chugach State Park, the first leg of the Seward Highway run along Turnagain Arm.

Chugach State Park, Alaska
Chugach State Park, Alaska
By the Seward Highway near Beluga Point, Alaska
By the Seward Highway near Beluga Point, Alaska

After making a big U turn at the tip of Turnagain Arm, the highway wound into the mountains. This was the most scenic part of the Seward Highway. Lakes by the road were absolutely tranquil. The last ray of sunshine diminished gradually from the top of the mountain as we drove into the Sterling Highway split.

By the Seward Highway near Girdwood, Alaska
By the Seward Highway near Girdwood, Alaska
Lower Summit Lake, Alaska
Lower Summit Lake, Alaska

After the split, which is commonly called as the “Y”, the Seward highway became AK-9. Because we spent a lot of time getting off the car and taking pictures, it’s getting darker as we drove on the last leg of the highway. Finally, at about 9pm, we climbed out of the mountains and were back to the sea level. We had a dinner at Chinook’s near the harbor and we would stay at the Best Western for two nights.

We planned to take Kenai Fjords National Park cruise tour through Major Marine Tours the next day. Tours offered by different companies share the similar routes. They also share information when they saw whales or other marine animals. We booked the 6-hour tour, which took us around Aialik Cape into Aialik Bay. Along the way, we saw Killer Whales, Sea Lions, Sea Otters, Mountain Goats and Alaska Puffins.

Seward Harbor, Alaska
Seward Harbor, Alaska
Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska
Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska
Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska
Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska
Killer Whales, Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska
Killer Whales, Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska
Sea Otters, Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska
Sea Otters, Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska
Aialik Glacier, Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska
Aialik Glacier, Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska
Sea Lions, Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska
Sea Lions, Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska
Alaska Puffins, Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska
Alaska Puffins, Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska

A park ranger on board explained the nature history and ecology along our cruise route. We met several young people from China who were travelling America by themselves. They certainly did their research and had better information than us regarding programs, coupons and even where to see bears and salmons. My parents had great time talking with them.

0评论

Tuscany – 佛罗伦萨 – 最浪漫的城市

2012.6.1~2中午稍事休息,下午我们先去佛罗伦萨学院美术馆(Galleria dell’Accademia)参观。始建于1563年,这里是欧洲最早的一所专门教授绘画技法的学校。现在作为美术馆,馆藏最著名的作品自然是米开朗基罗的《大卫》。很多游客和我们一样慕名而来,在门口排起了很长的队伍。不过,给我们印象最深的却是美术馆的庭院中,一尊彩色金发的《大卫》雕像。看来,佛罗伦萨人对自己最精华的艺术作品也不乏幽默。

David, Galleria dell\'Accademia, Florence
David, Galleria dell\'Accademia, Florence

离开学院美术馆,我们在圣马可广场走了一圈。(这不是威尼斯的圣马可广场,面积不大。)

Florence
Florence
Gelato, Florence
Gelato, Florence

回到主教堂广场的时候已经是下午六点多。太阳的光线在大教堂乔托钟楼精美的红绿大理石立面上逐渐上行,颜色也由明亮耀眼逐渐变暖,给教堂的顶部镀上一层金子般的色彩。

Cathedral and Giotto\'s Campanile, Florence
Cathedral and Giotto\'s Campanile, Florence
West façade and the dome of the cathedral, Florence
West façade and the dome of the cathedral, Florence

LP象前一天一样去老桥看Claudio Spadi的表演,而我走在亚诺河上的三座石桥之间,试图捕捉到落日下迷人的色彩变幻。

Ponte Santa Trinita, Florence
Ponte Santa Trinita, Florence
Ponte Vecchio and Ponte Santa Trinita, Florence
Ponte Vecchio and Ponte Santa Trinita, Florence
Ponte Vecchio, Florence
Ponte Vecchio, Florence
Lungarno Acciaiuoli, Florence
Lungarno Acciaiuoli, Florence

回旅馆的路上,经过旧市场(Mercato Vecchio)的时候,白天挤满商亭的凉廊已经是空空如也,只有一个街头艺人坐在台阶上拉手风琴。这是我第一次听到有人用手风琴演奏《四季》和《Canon》这样的古典音乐。他右手在密密麻麻的键盘上飞舞,左手拉动风琴来控制节奏,技巧相当娴熟。

Playing accordion at Mercato Vecchio (The Old Market), Florence
Playing accordion at Mercato Vecchio (The Old Market), Florence

最后一天早晨,我们去参观佛罗伦萨城最不能错过的一处名胜 – 乌菲兹美术馆。这座世界驰名的美术馆收藏了众多文艺复兴时期巨匠的名作,比如提香的《乌尔比诺的维纳斯》,波提切利的《维纳斯的诞生》和《春》以及米开朗琪罗的《圣家族》等等。大部分的馆藏都来自于美第奇家族的收藏,怪不得前一天我在新圣母教堂(Basilica of Santa Maria Novella)广场看到一幅标语,意思大约是,“很遗憾很多当代收藏家的品味还不如美第奇家族”。乌菲兹美术馆门前的队伍很长。我们在来的那天就请旅馆帮忙预定了门票,所以可以排比较短的一条队。美术馆里不允许照相,但是我还是忍不住给这位疑似穿越的人物画像拍了一张。

Portrait of a Young Man, by Georg Pencz, Uffizi Gallery, Florence
Portrait of a Young Man, by Georg Pencz, Uffizi Gallery, Florence
The narrow courtyard between the Uffizi\'s two wings, Florence
The narrow courtyard between the Uffizi\'s two wings, Florence

离开乌菲齐宫,我们在附近的街道上逛了逛,吃了午饭,才回旅馆。

A restaurant, Florence
A restaurant, Florence
Palazzo dell\'Arte della Lana, Florence
Palazzo dell\'Arte della Lana, Florence

最后一个下午是预留的购物时间。虽然比不上米兰的名气,佛罗伦萨也是世界上重要的时装中心之一。离我们旅馆几个街区的托纳波尼路(Via de’ Tornabuoni)有很多高级时装和珠宝品牌在这里设店,是有名的高尚购物区。

逛街购物实在不是一项轻松的差事。花了两个多小时在那些商店进进出出后,我终于说服LP在傍晚时分前往米开朗琪罗广场。沿着绿树成荫的Viale Galileo,出租车一路登上亚诺河南岸的山丘。因为前面堵车,我们在圣米尼亚托教堂(Basilica di San Miniato al Monte)前下了车。教堂位于佛罗伦萨市区的最高点,是一座典型的罗曼式建筑。

San Miniato al Monte, Florence
San Miniato al Monte, Florence
Overlook Florence from San Miniato al Monte
Overlook Florence from San Miniato al Monte

米开朗琪罗广场是俯瞰佛罗伦萨全景最好的地点。本地人到这里野餐、照婚纱照;游客坐在向西的台阶上,欣赏街头艺人的演唱,等待落日的美景。尽管每天的早晨都是阴天,到了下午,佛罗伦萨的天空就会放晴,我们连续三天都欣赏到美轮美奂的落日。从米开朗琪罗广场向下望,佛罗伦萨的一座座名胜古迹在眼前依次排列,笼罩在夕阳紫红色的余晖中。我们的Tuscany之行有了一个浪漫的尾声。

Florence panorama from Piazzale Michelangelo, Florence
Florence panorama from Piazzale Michelangelo, Florence
River Arno and Bridges in sunset, Florence
River Arno and Bridges in sunset, Florence
1评论

Tuscany – 佛罗伦萨 – 文艺复兴的摇篮

2012.5.31~6.1佛罗伦萨的名胜非常集中,步行都可以走到。我们的旅店(Strozzi Palace Hotel)就位于城区的中心。我们拿到的是旅馆顶层的套间,房间不编号,叫“米开朗基罗”,我们的隔壁是“拉斐尔”。

从我们的旅店走一个街区,穿过凯旋拱门,就到了共和广场(Piazza della Repubblica)。广场上到处是游客和街头艺人,广场周围都是酒吧和餐馆,其中很多是艺术家和学者经常聚会的场所。

Triumphal Arch at Piazza della Repubblica, Florence
Triumphal Arch at Piazza della Repubblica, Florence
Street paint near Piazza della Repubblica, Florence
Street paint near Piazza della Repubblica, Florence

继续前行走到亚诺河(River Arno)边。我们没有直接走上老桥(Ponte Vecchio),而是沿着河边走到天主圣三桥(Ponte Santa Trinita),从这里欣赏这座佛罗伦萨最古老的桥梁,也是最著名的一景。我们从河的另一侧走回老桥。

View Ponte Vecchio from Ponte Santa Trinita, Florence
View Ponte Vecchio from Ponte Santa Trinita, Florence

时值黄昏,桥上的商店都已经关门。文艺复兴前,这里的商家都是屠户,而现在主要是首饰店和画廊。

Shops at Ponte Vecchio were closed in late afternoon, Florence
Shops at Ponte Vecchio were closed in late afternoon, Florence

老桥的桥中间有一座本韦努托·切利尼(Benvenuto Cellini)的胸像。胸像周围没有商店,形成一个小广场。很多人在这里欣赏Claudio Spadi的演唱。他和朋友经常在傍晚的时候到这里来表演,久而久之也成了老桥的一道风景。夕阳反射在河水和水边建筑的玻璃上,桥上的行人都笼罩在温暖的阳光中。我们坐在桥栏上至少听了七、八首歌,直到太阳落山才离开。

第二天一早,和往常一样,我6点起床,独自在城里走走、照相。经过几条街道,我先走到新圣母教堂(Basilica of Santa Maria Novella)所在的广场。

Basilica of Santa Maria Novella, Florence
Basilica of Santa Maria Novella, Florence

接着,我又走到佛罗伦萨的主教堂,百花圣母大教堂(Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore)。教堂于1296年开始兴建,前后经过100年才建成,但是教堂的主立面一直没有完工。到16世纪,因为觉得主立面的设计与文艺复兴以后的标准相比太为过时,主立面又被推倒。直到19世纪,经过重新设计,由红绿大理石修建,装饰精美的主立面才最终建成。

Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore (Duomo), Florence
Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore (Duomo), Florence
The gallery of the Virgin with Child, Duomo, Florence
The gallery of the Virgin with Child, Duomo, Florence
Piazza del Duomo, Florence
Piazza del Duomo, Florence
The bronze door of the Baptistry, Florence
The bronze door of the Baptistry, Florence

吃过早饭,我们正式开始在市内游览。第一站是领主广场(Piazza della Signoria)。这大概是佛罗伦萨最有名的广场,主要是因为广场周围和佣兵凉廊(Loggia dei Lanzi)上举世闻名的雕塑,比如《大卫》和《强掳萨宾妇女(The Rape of the Sabine Women)》。领主广场不但是佛罗伦萨的政治中心,也是其文艺复兴中心的象征。它的名气也吸引了大量的游客,这应该是我们去过的地方中最拥挤的一个景点。

Piazza della Signoria, Florence
Piazza della Signoria, Florence
Sea horses of Fontana di Nettuno, Piazza della Signoria, Florence
Sea horses of Fontana di Nettuno, Piazza della Signoria, Florence
The Rape of the Sabine Women, Loggia dei Lanzi, Florence
The Rape of the Sabine Women, Loggia dei Lanzi, Florence
Loggia dei Lanzi, Florence
Loggia dei Lanzi, Florence

广场边巨大的建筑是佛罗伦萨的市政厅,又称旧宫(Palazzo Vecchio),顶部高耸的钟楼俯瞰领主广场。走进旧宫,首先是一间富丽堂皇,几乎可以容纳1000人的大厅。我们参观的时候正在举行一个学校的大会。大厅东西两侧的壁画描述的是佛罗伦萨与比萨锡耶纳的战争场面。二层的房间是画廊和展厅。其中很多是乔尔乔·瓦萨里(Giorgio Vasari)的作品。

Entrance of Palazzo Vecchio, Florence
Entrance of Palazzo Vecchio, Florence
Putto with Dolphin by Andrea del Verrocchio, Palazzo Vecchio, Florence
Putto with Dolphin by Andrea del Verrocchio, Palazzo Vecchio, Florence
Primavera by Giorgio Vasari and aids, Hall of Opi (Sala di Opi), Palazzo Vecchio, Florence
Primavera by Giorgio Vasari and aids, Hall of Opi (Sala di Opi), Palazzo Vecchio, Florence
Judith and Holofernes by Donatello, Hall of Lilies (Sala dei Gigli), Palazzo Vecchio, Florence
Judith and Holofernes by Donatello, Hall of Lilies (Sala dei Gigli), Palazzo Vecchio, Florence

离开旧宫,我们沿着乌菲兹宫的长廊走向亚诺河。这也是乔尔乔·瓦萨里的一项创意的设计。他打通了乌菲兹宫靠河的一面墙,从而把封闭的庭院变成公共的广场和街道。过了河,我们走到碧提宫(Palazzo Pitti)。这里曾经是美第奇家族的府邸,现在是一座博物馆。我们并没有进馆参观,而是返回旅馆休息。

From the loggia of Uffizi by Arno river, Florence
From the loggia of Uffizi by Arno river, Florence
Closer look of Ponte Vecchio, Florence
Closer look of Ponte Vecchio, Florence
Piazza del Pitti, Florence
Piazza del Pitti, Florence
0评论

Tuscany – 锡耶纳

2012.5.30~31从中世纪到文艺复兴,锡耶纳一直是一个富有的城邦,一直在和80公里外的佛罗伦萨争夺Tuscany地区的主导地位。因为佛罗伦萨在文艺复兴时期的崛起,锡耶纳逐渐沦为附属的小城,但是这反而让锡耶纳完整地保留了她中世纪鼎盛时期的风貌。今天的锡耶纳以中世纪的艺术、建筑和宗教文化闻名于世,城市的建设与周围的环境和谐统一。锡耶纳的古城也在1995年被列入世界文化遗产

游客的车辆不能进城。从我们的旅馆到锡耶纳的中心,大约要走15到20分钟。第一天早晨我6点钟起床,步行进城。天光还早,街道上几乎没有什么行人。

Siena
Siena
Siena
Siena

锡耶纳中心贝壳形的田野广场(Piazza del Campo)是锡耶纳的标志景观。广场的一边是市政厅(Palazzo Pubblico)和曼吉亚塔楼(Torre del Mangia);另一边是欢乐喷泉(Fonte Gaia)。每一年,广场上都会举行两次赛马(Palio)。赛马是锡耶纳人十分重视的活动,它的背后是锡耶纳传统上17个堂区的居民之间的荣誉和竞争。

Piazza del Campo, Siena
Piazza del Campo, Siena
Torre del Mangia, Siena
Torre del Mangia, Siena

走到锡耶纳的主教堂广场(Piazza del Duomo)的时候,早晨的阳光正开始把广场照亮。温暖的金色阳光把教堂周围的建筑投上了一层迷人的色彩。

Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Siena
Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Siena

锡耶纳的主教堂是一座罗马-哥特风格的建筑。教堂西立面的设计是中世纪建筑的经典。外墙的下部继承比萨 – 罗马式的建筑风格;而外墙上部的雕像和尖塔明显受哥特式建筑的影响。

Central gable and right tower of the Duomo, Siena
Central gable and right tower of the Duomo, Siena
Facade statues of the Duomo, Siena
Facade statues of the Duomo, Siena
Facade statues of the Duomo, Siena
Facade statues of the Duomo, Siena

第一天的白天我们去了Tuscany的南部。到第二天早晨,我们才又返回锡耶纳的市内。

Torre del Mangia and Palazzo Pubblico, Siena
Torre del Mangia and Palazzo Pubblico, Siena
The marble loggia of the Torre del Mangia, Siena
The marble loggia of the Torre del Mangia, Siena
Siena
Siena

锡耶纳主教堂的门票不贵,买通票可以参观主教堂广场的建筑群。

Interior of the Duomo, Siena
Interior of the Duomo, Siena
Pulpit of the Duomo, Siena
Pulpit of the Duomo, Siena
Stained-glass window in the Duomo, Siena
Stained-glass window in the Duomo, Siena
The inlaid marble mosaic floor in the Duomo, Siena
The inlaid marble mosaic floor in the Duomo, Siena
Piccolomini Library in the Duomo, Siena
Piccolomini Library in the Duomo, Siena
Dome of the duomo, Siena
Dome of the duomo, Siena

如果十四世纪时大教堂的扩建计划得以完成,教堂的面积将会达到现在的两倍。但是1348年肆虐欧洲的黑死病让这一工程搁置下来,后来再也没有开始。游客可以登上未完成的正厅后墙。从这里可以看到锡耶纳的全景。

The dome and the bell tower of the Duomo, Siena
The dome and the bell tower of the Duomo, Siena
Piazza del Campo, Siena
Piazza del Campo, Siena

离开主教堂广场,我们在市场广场(Piazza del Mercato)边的Trattoria Papei吃了午饭。

The church of Santa Maria dei Servi, Siena
The church of Santa Maria dei Servi, Siena

我们下午离开锡耶纳去佛罗伦萨。两个城市的距离只有80公里,开车一个多小时就到了。我们在机场还了车,打车进城。

0评论

Tuscany – 田园风光

2012.5.30我们在锡耶纳附近计划呆两天,所以没有选择住乡间别墅,而订的是锡耶纳城墙外一点儿的Hotel Santa Caterina。这是一栋18世纪时贵族的住所,后来改建成旅馆。旅馆的面积不大,有些陈旧,但是很舒适。餐厅的位置阳光明媚,门外是个花园,能够眺望Tuscany的田园风光。

Morning frog, Siena
Morning frog, Siena

Tuscany南部的丘陵地带有很多文化历史丰富的山顶小镇。参照Slow Travel Italy网站的指点,我们的第一天完全在乡间活动,最远离锡耶纳也就是一个多小时的车程。我们出发的时候已经接近上午11点。计划的是在落日时分到达Pienze。

1. Montalcino

Montalcino(蒙塔奇诺)所处的高地周围到处都是葡萄园和橄榄树。这里是Tuscany著名的葡萄酒产地之一。我们本来想去看城里的教堂,结果走到一个下坡上的死胡同,转了半天才把车掉头出来。

Montalcino, Southern Tuscany
Montalcino, Southern Tuscany
2. Sant’Antimo Abbey修道院

Sant’Antimo Abbey修道院始建于公元8世纪。我们到达时正值中午,艳阳高照,否则在修道院边的花园野餐也是不错的选择。

Sant'Antimo Abbey, Southern Tuscany
Sant'Antimo Abbey, Southern Tuscany
Near Sant'Antimo Abbey, Southern Tuscany
Near Sant'Antimo Abbey, Southern Tuscany
3. Castiglione D’orcia

沿着Val d’Orcia山区的蜿蜒的公路,我们来到Castiglione D’orcia。路边的小教堂正好提供了阴凉让我们休息了片刻。

Castiglione D'orcia, Southern Tuscany
Castiglione D'orcia, Southern Tuscany
Castiglione d' Orcia, Southern Tuscany
Castiglione d' Orcia, Southern Tuscany
4. San Quirico d’Orcia

几条Tuscany的主要公路汇聚于San Quirico d’Orcia。我们在La Locanda di Fonte Alla Vena吃了午饭。这里的Pasta的味道不错。不知道为什么,我觉得餐馆里播放的意大利歌曲格外动听。

Near San Quirico D'orcia, Southern Tuscany
Near San Quirico D'orcia, Southern Tuscany
Restaurant La Locanda di Fonte Alla Vena, San Quirico D'orcia, Southern Tuscany
Restaurant La Locanda di Fonte Alla Vena, San Quirico D'orcia, Southern Tuscany
5. Torrenieri

午饭吃了一个小时,进去时炎热干燥,出来的时候居然掉起雨点儿来。我们沿着SR2向回开到Torrenieri,然后从这里向东走SP137。一路上雨越来越大,走到一个山坡上,放眼望去,整个Tuscany乌云密布,远处雷声轰鸣,紧接着就是一阵急雨。一时间我们真有点儿担心被闪电击中。

On SP137, near Torrenieri, Southern Tuscany
On SP137, near Torrenieri, Southern Tuscany
On SP137, near Torrenieri, Southern Tuscany
On SP137, near Torrenieri, Southern Tuscany
5. 乡间土路SP137、SP71

雷阵雨下了大约半个小时。雨渐渐小的时候,路边农家养的几只鸡出来散步,主人的猫腻在主人脚边,蹭来蹭去。我们沿着SP137向东开。这是一条乡间土路,道路两旁是绿色起伏的丘陵。这是Tuscany最有特色的风景之一。

On SP71, Southern Tuscany
On SP71, Southern Tuscany
On SP71, Near Pienza, Southern Tuscany
On SP71, Near Pienza, Southern Tuscany
6. Monticchiello

经过Pienza的时候是下午6点。我们没有在这里停留,直接开到Monticchiello。我们在城里的坡路上又花了一阵时间掉头倒车。

Intersection of SP del Monte Amiata and SP88, Southern Tuscany
Intersection of SP del Monte Amiata and SP88, Southern Tuscany
Overlook from Monticchiello, Southern Tuscany
Overlook from Monticchiello, Southern Tuscany
7. Pienza和SS146

回到Pienza(皮恩扎)时已是傍晚7点。Pienza的城小,但是名气很大,被列为世界文化遗产。如果有时间,在这里住上一晚,白天到周围观光,是个不错的选择。

Pienza, Southern Tuscany
Pienza, Southern Tuscany
On SP146, Southern Tuscany
On SP146, Southern Tuscany

尽管在论坛上从五月到九月都有人汇报说看到了“一片一片”的向日葵,很可惜,我们看到了各种野花,但是却没看到一朵向日葵。出发前,我们向旅馆的前台打听在哪里看到向日葵的可能性比较大。前台的意思是,种不种、种多少向日葵完全得看农民的心情。当然他也没忘了给我们留点儿希望,告诉我们在Tuscany南部的田野上到处都可能看到向日葵。:-)

0评论

Tuscany – 比萨

2012.5.29和旅馆商量推迟了结账的时间,我们趁早晨先去了一趟Viareggio。这个海滨城市在卢卡以西30公里。从小路(Via Sarzanese)过去要经过几座小山和村落,比走高速要多花半个小时,不过风景还不错。

Viareggio beach
Viareggio beach
A seaside café at Viareggio
A seaside café at Viareggio

沿着SS12号公路,从卢卡到比萨不到20公里。经过一座小山和一段绿树成荫的乡间路,我们从远处就可以看到比萨的斜塔和教堂。进城后,沿着城墙向西开半圈,距离奇迹广场两个街区的地方有一个很大的停车场。停车场的门口有小贩在贩卖冒牌的皮革制品和手表。

奇迹广场上有四座宗教建筑,大教堂、洗礼堂、墓园和钟楼(比萨斜塔)。广场上游客多到有些拥挤,不过整个广场绿草茵茵、建筑宏伟,仍然值得一游。
Piazza dei Miracoli, Pisa
Piazza dei Miracoli, Pisa
Duomo, Viewed from Baptistry of St. John, Pisa
Duomo, Viewed from Baptistry of St. John, Pisa
Inside the cathedral, Pisa
Inside the cathedral, Pisa
Pulpit, Duomo of Pisa
Pulpit, Duomo of Pisa
The Leaning Tower, Pisa
The Leaning Tower, Pisa
Piazza dei Miracoli, from the top of the Leaning Tower
Piazza dei Miracoli, from the top of the Leaning Tower
Pisa city view from the top of the Leaning Tower
Pisa city view from the top of the Leaning Tower

我们下午四点离开比萨。从比萨到锡耶纳有几条路,最快的是走A11回到佛罗伦萨,然后向南上FI-SE(佛罗伦萨 – 锡耶纳)高速。虽然是一路高速,不过要走回头路。我们决定走最近的路线,向南走SS206,向东上FI-PI-LI (佛罗伦萨 – 比萨 – 利沃诺)高速,到SS429时再向南,最后汇合到FI-SE。GPS不工作,只能依靠从Google打印的路线和Touring Editore出版的Tuscany的地图。我们经过了无数个村庄,无数个环岛,转错了好几个出口,终于在晚上八点到达锡耶纳的Santa Caterina旅馆

0评论

Tuscany – 卢卡

2012.5.27~28旧金山意大利领事馆的签证处面积很小。其中一个签证官的态度确实象网上评论的一样傲慢无礼。幸好我们的签证申请没有遇到太大的麻烦。

Consulate General of Italy, San Francisco
Consulate General of Italy, San Francisco

飞机到达佛罗伦萨的时间大约是当地下午四点。在机场的租车点,大概因为小的车被租光了,我们得到了免费的升级。实际上在欧洲的城市开车,还是小车方便。特别是在Tuscany那些山顶的小镇里,这辆车着实让我们头痛了几次。我们的第一站是佛罗伦萨以西80公里的卢卡,开车不过一个小时。我们的落脚点是Ilaria & Residenza dell’Alba旅店。

Lucca, Italy

Lucca, Italy

Lucca, Italy

Lucca, Italy

Lucca, Italy

Lucca, Italy

Lucca, Italy

卢卡的旧城被包围在古老的城墙里。旅店就位于旧城东侧。放下行李,我就独自出发去城里探路。Santa Croce大街由东向西贯穿市内。天已经擦黑,我只有时间在城南走了走。
Piazza del Giglio, Lucca
Piazza del Giglio, Lucca
Piazza XX Settembre, Lucca
Piazza XX Settembre, Lucca

第二天一早,和往常旅游时一样,我先早起趁人少时出去走一走。卢卡老城内狭窄的街道密布于中世纪的建筑之中。走着走着,一座教堂或是一个小广场就会突然出现在小巷的一侧,豁然开朗。早晨的光线在建筑之间变化很大,对摄影挑战不小。

Via del Fosso, Lucca
Via del Fosso, Lucca
Via del Gallo, Lucca
Via del Gallo, Lucca
Piazza San Martino, Lucca
Piazza San Martino, Lucca
Via Antonio Vallisneri / Via del Battistero / Via delle Trombe, Lucca
Via Antonio Vallisneri / Via del Battistero / Via delle Trombe, Lucca

旅馆的早餐在二层的露台,从这里可以看到旅馆背后一座别墅的花园。早餐过后,我们的游览正式开始。

Via del Fosso, Lucca
Via del Fosso, Lucca
People watching, Lucca
People watching, Lucca
Anfiteatro Romano
Anfiteatro Romano
Piazza San Frediano, Lucca
Piazza San Frediano, Lucca
San Michele in Foro, Lucca
San Michele in Foro, Lucca
Lucca as seen from the top of the Guinigi tower
Lucca as seen from the top of the Guinigi tower

卢卡的老城面积不大,不过在这些迷宫般的小巷里走了一上午,还是让我们的腿象灌了铅一样。吃过午饭,我们回旅馆睡了一小觉,到下午四点又继续出发。

Walls of Lucca
Walls of Lucca
Piazza Napoleone, Lucca
Piazza Napoleone, Lucca
Duomo di San Martino, Lucca
Duomo di San Martino, Lucca
Sculpture on Duomo di San Martino, Lucca
Sculpture on Duomo di San Martino, Lucca
Via Fillungo, Lucca
Via Fillungo, Lucca
Piazza San Michele, Lucca
Piazza San Michele, Lucca

卢卡小城安静舒缓,古老的建筑和街道布满城区。虽然名气不如比萨和佛罗伦萨,但绝对是我们Tuscany之行的一个惊喜。

0评论