OpenStack Summit Hong Kong

OpenStack is an open-source project for cloud computing. While started only 3 years ago, it’s growing up quickly and started picking up momentums in recent years, together with new tech trends/hypes, such as Virtualization, SDN, NFV and son on. I went to Hong Kong earlier this month to attend OpenStack Summit. It’s the first summit held outside of the US. With more than 3,500 attendees, it’s clear that there were a lot of enthusiasm around OpenStack.

Openstack Summit 2013, Hong Kong
Openstack Summit 2013, Hong Kong

As an OpenStack Network Model (Neutron) contributor, I was mostly in the developer sessions. This is my first time been to the summit. It’s interesting to note that OpenStack community is very much like United Nations. Different companies with different agenda come together to try to find some common ground moving forward. There are powerful companies, but the less powerful ones can dynamically form into groups based on interests so their ideas can be more influential. People here are competitors and colleagues at the same time. Together, many innovations are incubated.

There were a lot of interesting sessions during the summit, so I only managed to go to the city twice in one relatively free day. Taking Airport Express, from the Expo to the city Central is a half-an-hour ride. 九龍, 尖沙咀, 蘭桂坊, 銅鑼灣, 皇后大道, for those names that I heard so many times from Hong Kong movies and TV series, I finally had a chance to see them in person.

I didn’t bring my bulky DSLR, but rented a Fujifilm X100S based on friends’ recommendation. I also for the first time experimented street photography in manual focus mode. I converted the picture into BW in the post-processing. I am totally a newbie in all these 3 aspects (street photography, manual mode and BW pictures).

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坦桑尼亚 – 奥杜瓦伊峡谷

2012.12.28早晨八点离开Tindiga帐篷旅馆,按原路返回。这一次路程显得很短,大约一个小时,我们终于离开颠簸的土路,回到柏油路上。不过Justin告诉我们,柏油路面只铺到恩戈罗恩戈罗火山,过了那儿就全是土路了。

20分钟后,我们来到恩戈罗恩戈罗火山的山脚下。入口前的道路上吉普车排起了长龙,一打听才知道是因为售票系统的计算机down了。入口右手边的售票处里面站满了排队代游客买票的导游,Justin也排在里面。我们趁这个机会参观了游客中心里小的展览。

从等在入口的车队走过去,我发现几乎所有的游览吉普都是Toyota Land Cruiser。据Justin解释是因为Land Cruiser结实易修理,比起Land Rover唯一的缺点就是比较重,雨季的时候容易陷在泥地里。

Safari jeeps waiting to enter Ngorongoro.Conservation Area.
Safari jeeps waiting to enter Ngorongoro.Conservation Area.
Stuffed animals in a safari jeep outside of Ngorongoro.Conservation Area.
Stuffed animals in a safari jeep outside of Ngorongoro.Conservation Area.
Entrance of Ngorongoro Conservation Area.
Entrance of Ngorongoro Conservation Area.

等了一个小时,计算机修好了,我们终于可以继续前行。恩戈罗恩戈罗火山的东坡比周围的平原高出800米,从印度洋吹来的信风在这里上升冷却,留下大部分的湿气,所以恩戈罗恩戈罗火山的东南坡森林茂密,而西坡的植被只有草原,没有高大的树木。

Dense vegetation in south slope of Ngorongoro crater.
Dense vegetation in south slope of Ngorongoro crater.

车道沿着火山口的边缘前行。这里的海拔大约2300米。在火山口的南缘有一处观景台,从这里既可以俯瞰恩戈罗恩戈罗火山内侧的火山口,也可以远眺火山外的平原和山峦。

Overlook Ngorongoro crater from its south side.
Overlook Ngorongoro crater from its south side.

我们行程的最后一天将会下到火山口底部,所以今天只是路过。我们沿着火山口行进了半圈,中间路过Ngorogoro Serena Lodge,就建在火山口的崖壁上,可惜我们因为行程订的太晚,没有订到。在火山口的西侧,年降水量比东南侧要少一半,但是还是足够支持富饶的草场,青绿的草原一眼望不到边。Justin说这是坦桑尼亚最富的地区。

Western slope of Ngorongoro volcano
Western slope of Ngorongoro volcano
Overlook the Ngorongoro crater and Lake Magadi.
Overlook the Ngorongoro crater and Lake Magadi.
A Maasai village for tourist near Ngorongoro Conservation Area.
A Maasai village for tourist near Ngorongoro Conservation Area.

30分钟后,我们离开主路(B144),掉头向北。草原已经消失,我们的周围只有零零星星的低矮灌木,环境变化之快实在令人吃惊。沙漠般的土地上没有明确标示的道路,我们在路边接上一个看似过路人,把他带到奥杜瓦伊峡谷的入口处。

Oldupai Gorge Entrance
Oldupai Gorge Entrance

奥杜瓦伊峡谷(Oldupai Gorge)的另一个拼写是Olduvai Gorge。1911年德国科学家Wilhelm Kattwinkel发现峡谷里的化石,却误把当地广泛生长的一种野生剑麻,Oldupai,拼写成Olduvai作为峡谷的名字。自从1911年被发现以来,从峡谷两百万年来沉积的岩层中,发掘出大量的原始人类的化石和他们使用的石器,为人类起源于非洲提供了最有力的佐证。

Oldupai Gorge
Oldupai Gorge

我们在奥杜瓦伊峡谷的崖边吃了午饭,然后听了一个讲座。做讲座的人就是我们从路边捎带过来的。有趣的是一个人在不同环境下的表现会给人带来的印象有这么大的不同,刚才他只是一个风尘仆仆的过路人,而现在他完全是一个很有权威的学者。

游客中心有个小博物馆,介绍了在奥杜瓦伊峡谷和Laetoli的古人类学发现。Laetoli的位于奥杜瓦伊峡谷南方45公里,在那里的火山灰化石中发现了360万年前的原始人类的脚印。这组足迹长约27米,可能是三个原始人类留下的,对脚印的研究发现这三个原始人类是以直立方式行走。脚印的附近还发现了其它动物的足迹。试想在360万年前的一个雨天,一头大象和三个古人类行走在东非平原上,这只大象一定在想,“这三个是什么怪物,居然用两只脚走路”。360万年过去,大象还是大象,而人类已经成为整个地球的主宰。当然那时的古人类和现在的人类还有很多不同,甚至还不是智人的直接祖先。博物馆有一张地图,描绘了智人(Homo sapiens)走出非洲的时间线路

Vegetation of Oldupai Gorge
Vegetation of Oldupai Gorge
Common Bulbul, Oldupai Gorge
Common Bulbul, Oldupai Gorge
Agama Lizard, Oldupai Gorge
Agama Lizard, Oldupai Gorge

我们下午两点离开奥杜瓦伊峡谷。雷雨好像离我们很近,就在那一排合欢树的后面。

Thunderstorm near Oldupai Gorge
Thunderstorm near Oldupai Gorge

回到B144,我们开始看到一群群的角马(wildebeests)和斑马 – 我们正在走进塞伦盖蒂大草原。

Tunderstorm over Serengeti
Tunderstorm over Serengeti
Zebras in migration near Serengeti National Park
Zebras in migration near Serengeti National Park
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Portland, Oregon

2013.8.3~4We arrived at Portland at early afternoon. We first checked into the hotel near the airport then drove into the city.

We parked the car near North Park Blocks. The city center around W. Burnside Street and downtown didn’t impress me. The street is noisy. The famous Powell’s Books is a very busy store, with a lot of books and a lot of people, but the surrounding still made me feel a bit run-down.

Powell\'s Books, Pearl District, Portland, OR
Powell\'s Books, Pearl District, Portland, OR

We walked along SW Stark Street towards downtown. We had a cup of coffee at Stumptown Coffe Roasters and stopped by several interesting shops. The perception I had about Portland is quite different from other American cities I’ve been to, but I can’t explain what it is, the way people dressed, the style that stores are arranged, just somewhat different. It’s said that Portland is the new magnet for hipsters. Maybe that’s where my feelings came from.

A bike sculpture, Burnside and 13th Av. intersection, Portland, OR
A bike sculpture, Burnside and 13th Av. intersection, Portland, OR
SW Stark St., Portland, OR
SW Stark St., Portland, OR
Street view from Stumptown Coffee Roasters on SW Stark St, Portland, OR
Street view from Stumptown Coffee Roasters on SW Stark St, Portland, OR
Jackpot Records, Downtown Portland, OR
Jackpot Records, Downtown Portland, OR

We still prefer more modern styles. After asking for direction, we walked towards the shopping district. We had a rest at Pioneer Courthouse Square and felt that it’s where we belong to.

Light Rail, Downtown Portland, OR
Light Rail, Downtown Portland, OR
Pioneer Courthouse, Portland, OR
Pioneer Courthouse, Portland, OR
Street food carts, Portland, OR
Street food carts, Portland, OR

We had dinner at Yama Sushi & Sake Bar in Pearl District. This seems to be a high-end section of the city. The arrangement of streets, stores and parks are well considered and organized. According to explorethepearl.com, “the Pearl is clear validation that high-quality, inner-city communities can revive from the ashes of urban decay”

North Park Blocks, Portland, OR
North Park Blocks, Portland, OR
Jamison Square, Pearl District, Portland, OR
Jamison Square, Pearl District, Portland, OR

We left the city by NW Fremont Bridge. Overlooked the city by the river from this direction, it’s lovely and alive. My original impression had changed.

The next day morning, we drove along the Columbia River and went to see Multnomah Falls. Only 30 minutes from the city, the park offers quite magnificent view of this two-step waterfall.

Multnomah Falls, Oregon
Multnomah Falls, Oregon

We plan to visit the city again before flying back home. However, northbound highway 84 was shutdown for road construction. All the local roads were quite jammed. We eventually gave up and had a lunch at Thai Seasons restaurant. One side of wall is dedicated to the restaurant’s mission statement writing on the blackboard, to buy local and to be environmental friendly.

We left the city at afternoon and concluded our 4-day trip to Mt. Rainier and Portland, Oregon. A short and rewarding get away.

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Mt. Rainier – Paradise

2013.8.35am at morning, I didn’t gave up the hope that the sky might be cleared. Looking out through the window, I could see surrounding mountains clearly. Magic! I grabbed my gears and run out of the hotel, together with several fellow photographers.

When we got to the reflection lake, thick fog still dominated the lake. Another two photographers told me, they came last year and it was a day like this. Although the paradise area was clear, the sun hadn’t shown up until too late around the reflection lake. Pondered for a while, we decided to go some other places. 2 miles back toward the paradise area on the left-hand side, there is a vista point that is facing the mountain and overlooks the valley. No cloud, the light was warm.

Mt. Rainier Sunrise
Mt. Rainier Sunrise

The reflection lake must be good now. We all drove back. Less than 10 minutes after we left, the sun has dispersed the cloud, only light fog remained above the surface of the lake. A short trail led me to the lake shore. It was perfect, I couldn’t ask for better conditions. I spent about half an hour around at the lake side.

Sunrise over Reflection Lakes, Mt. Rainier
Sunrise over Reflection Lakes, Mt. Rainier
Sunrise over Reflection Lakes, Mt. Rainier
Sunrise over Reflection Lakes, Mt. Rainier

I went back to the lodge to meet my wife and we decided to do some hiking in this beautiful morning. Nisqually Vista Trail is at the west side of paradise area. The trail is a loop and easy to walk, unfortunately it’s not as exciting as the Skyline Trail. The glacier retreats fast, there was not much too see indeed; and the flowers were not abundant.

Nisqually Vista Trail, Paradise, Mt. Rainier
Nisqually Vista Trail, Paradise, Mt. Rainier
Panorama view from Nisquallly parking lot, Mt. Rainier
Panorama view from Nisquallly parking lot, Mt. Rainier

We decided to have a walk again between the lodge and the Myrtle Falls, the same section of Skyline Trail we hiked the previous day. It’s around 8am. The view was fascinating, but as the sun rose higher, the light quickly became too harsh for photographing.

Skyline Trail, Paradise, Mt. Rainier
Skyline Trail, Paradise, Mt. Rainier
Myrtle Falls, Skyline Trail, Paradise, Mt. Rainier
Myrtle Falls, Skyline Trail, Paradise, Mt. Rainier

We returned the lodge in time to catch up their serving of breakfast. We checked out the lodge at 9am. Our destination was Portland, Oregon, so we would leaving from the Nisqually Entrance. Not far from paradise area, we stopped by at Nevada Falls, and walked down to the view point. It’s a popular site and maybe the first attraction for tourists coming from this direction. On our way leaving the park, I noticed the clouds started returning to the park. We were really lucky to have a chance to see Mt. Rainier’s different faces. The final highlight was short but priceless.

Navada Falls, Mt. Rainier
Navada Falls, Mt. Rainier
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Mt. Rainier – A Walk in the Clouds

2013.8.2I got up at 5am. My plan was to drive to the Tipsoo Lake to take pictures of Mt. Rainier’s reflection at sunrise. I sticked to my plan although there was no sign that the clouds would go away. Certainly, they didn’t and they were thicker than the previous day. I still drove to WA-410 and WA-123 fork, very close to the Tipsoo Lake. I really couldn’t see anything. I had to give up. At Lower elevation, it’s just a cloudy day. I returned to Ohanapecosh campground and took some pictures of the river under the bridge.

Ohanapecosh River, Mt. Rainier
Ohanapecosh River, Mt. Rainier
Ohanapecosh River, Mt. Rainier
Ohanapecosh River, Mt. Rainier

We checked out of our lodge at 9:30. We drove to the Paradise area through Stevens Canyon Rd. About half way between WA-123 fork and Paradise, there is stone bridge right in front of a tunnel. We made a stop there. The area is called Box Canyon. Under the bridge, the gorge is like a narrow and deep slice, the raging water is far below the bridge. The Box Canyon Loop a short hike that take no more than 15 minutes. The air was so humid (we were in the cloud) that it seemed one can squeeze water out of it. The fog gave the view a touch of desolation.

Box Canyon, Mt. Rainier
Box Canyon, Mt. Rainier
Box Canyon Loop, Mt. Rainier
Box Canyon Loop, Mt. Rainier
Box Canyon Loop, Mt. Rainier
Box Canyon Loop, Mt. Rainier
Box Canyon Loop, Mt. Rainier
Box Canyon Loop, Mt. Rainier

It’s still too early to get a room when we reached Paradise Inn. We knew the lodge has almost 100 years of history, but what we saw still impressed us very much. The lobby (The Great Hall) is huge and inviting. There are two fireplace and a lot of chairs for guests to enjoy this wonderful construction. We had a lunch at the restaurants and set off to explore the hiking trails of Paradise area. We walked Skyline Trail toward Myrtle Falls. Crossed the bridge, we kept on Golden Gate Trail for another half a mile.

Pink Mountain Heather, Skyline Trail, Paradise, Mt. Rainier
Pink Mountain Heather, Skyline Trail, Paradise, Mt. Rainier
The creek near Myrtle Falls, Skyline Trail, Paradise, Mt. Rainier
The creek near Myrtle Falls, Skyline Trail, Paradise, Mt. Rainier
Paradise Inn front door in a gloomy day, Mt. Rainier
Paradise Inn front door in a gloomy day, Mt. Rainier

We returned to Paradise Inn and checked into our room. My wife decided to stay in the room and I’d have a hike by myself. I took the opposite direction of Skyline Trail, detoured on Alta Vista Trail and turned back through Deadhorse Creek Trail. It’s a nice day for hiking but difficult for photography. Dewdrops hung on every petal, but I could hardly take pictures on any flower 20 feet away.

Magenta Paintbrush, Skyline Trail, Paradise, Mt. Rainier
Magenta Paintbrush, Skyline Trail, Paradise, Mt. Rainier
Skyline Trail, Paradise, Mt. Rainier
Skyline Trail, Paradise, Mt. Rainier
Avalanche Lily, Deadhorse Creek Trail, Paradise, Mt. Rainier
Avalanche Lily, Deadhorse Creek Trail, Paradise, Mt. Rainier

I walked for one and a half hour and retired to our hotel. Nothing beat the feeling of sitting in the cozy and warm lodge, watching the gloomy weather outside and having a cold beer after a long walk.

Paradise Inn, Mt. Rainier
Paradise Inn, Mt. Rainier
Paradise Inn, Mt. Rainier
Paradise Inn, Mt. Rainier
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Mt. Rainier – Sunrise

2013.8.1I still clearly remember the view when last time we drove from Seattle city to Sea-Tac Airport 8 years ago – a huge mountain, standing by itself, dominated the horizon, bold and respectful. That’s Mt. Rainier, whose prominence (4,027 m) ranks #21 in the world. Mt. Rainier is also renowned for blooming wildflowers during the summer months. This year, we finally got a chance to visit Mt. Rainier in the peak blooming season at the end of July.

Our flight arrived at Seattle at 9am. We took WA-410 to go to the park. It’s as cloudy as Seattle’s sky normally is, but after 2 hours, when we entered the park, it’s getting clear. At one point as we passed Sunrise Park Rd. fork, we could see Mt. Rainier.

White River, Mt. Rainier
White River, Mt. Rainier

We turned right at WA-410 and WA-123 fork to Tipsoo Lake before going to the lodge. We stopped at one vista point to overlook the valley. Clouds were moving fast up against the valley toward us. We were not aware that the clouds would stay in the park for the rest of two days.

Tipsoo Lake is a lovely lake with tranquil water. The whole area was covered by wildflowers. A lot of Lupine, dotted with Pasque Flower seed head in white and Arnica in yellow. A hiking trail surrounds the lake. From the far side of the lake, one can photograph Mt. Rainier’s reflections, but as I was taking pictures on this side, clouds started moving into the lake and soon swallowed everything within. I didn’t have a chance to see the reflection, but the cloud also made this flower-surrounded small lake like a fairy place.

Lupine and Pasqueflower Seedhaed, Tipsoo Lake, Mt. Rainier
Lupine and Pasqueflower Seedhaed, Tipsoo Lake, Mt. Rainier
Tipsoo Lake, Mt. Rainier
Tipsoo Lake, Mt. Rainier
Lupine and Cow Parsnip, Tipsoo Lake, Mt. Rainier
Lupine and Cow Parsnip, Tipsoo Lake, Mt. Rainier
Tipsoo Lake, Mt. Rainier
Tipsoo Lake, Mt. Rainier

As we left the Tipsoo lake, we couldn’t even see the road at some section because the cloud was too thick. We literally walking in the cloud, until we reached lower elevation, the cloud really became the cloud. We booked the lodge of our first-day stay at Parkwood area. Along Hwy. 12, Parkwood is not even a town. It only has a couple of stores, restaurants, and hotels, but the lodge we booked, Timberline Village, is 4 miles outside the area towards the park. We totally missed it at first. A local man asked us to follow his car and helped us find the lodge.

Although the facility is basic, the room is spacious with a very good shower. We had lunch at Cruiser’s Pizza because of the coupon that the lodge left on our room table. It’s maybe the only normal dining place in the area. The food is fresh. My wife said the burger was the best she had in years.

Parkwood area, Washington
Parkwood area, Washington

We returned to the park after some rest. The whole park was still in the cloud. We wanted to try our luck at Sunrise area.

Ohanapecosh Entrance, Mt. Rainier
Ohanapecosh Entrance, Mt. Rainier
Ohanapecosh Entrance, Mt. Rainier
Ohanapecosh Entrance, Mt. Rainier

Two miles from Sunrise Visitor Center at Sunrise Lake Point, the cloud was so thick and we could barely see anything 30 feet away. We had little hope to see the mountain at all. There were only a handful cars in Sunrise Visitor Center parking lot. The rangers were about to leave and the only thing they could tell us about the weather was that it’s unpredictable. As we were walking toward Frozen Lake, I felt the cloud lifted up a little bit. We decided to change the route to go to Emmons Vista. Gradually, the sun dispersed the clouds and the majestic Mt. Rainier revealed itself in front of us. For 20 minutes, we were walking above clouds.

Sunrise, Mt. Rainier
Sunrise, Mt. Rainier
Sunrise, Mt. Rainier
Sunrise, Mt. Rainier
Sunrise, Mt. Rainier
Sunrise, Mt. Rainier
Sunrise Lake, Mt. Rainier
Sunrise Lake, Mt. Rainier

Clouds soon reclaimed the Sunrise area. We were hoping the next day would be a better day.

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坦桑尼亚 – 埃亚湖

2012.12.27早晨10点,我们离开Kirurumu Manyara Lodge,沿着B144号公路继续向南。大约半个小时后,我们进入另一个小镇。这里是卡拉图区,是阿鲁沙大区六个地区中的一个。Justin的家就在这个小镇附近。我们在一个店铺门口停了一下,Justin给家里留了些东西。

Karatu District
Karatu District

又开了5公里,我们向左拐上一条土路,开往埃亚湖。

T K Eyasi Rd.
T K Eyasi Rd.
Southern Ground Hornbill, T K Eyasi Rd.
Southern Ground Hornbill, T K Eyasi Rd.

这条土路有些颠簸。随着位置越来越向南,天气也变得越来越热。这里没有高大的植被,路边只有星星两两的灌木。

Barren land near Lake Eyasi
Barren land near Lake Eyasi
Massai Cottage near Lake Eyasi
Massai Cottage near Lake Eyasi

大约过了一个小时,我们在路边看到一个小亭子,这是埃亚湖区的入口和收费站。这里只有一个人值班,来访的游客显然不多。我们等了一会儿,来了一个本地人和我们一起上了车。他将带领我们参观Hadzabe和Datoga原始部落。

Reception office of visiting tribes in Lake Eyasi area
Reception office of visiting tribes in Lake Eyasi area

继续向前开了大约5分钟,我们在向导的指引下离开主路,开入灌木丛。哈扎比(Hadzabe)部落是非洲唯一的仍然以狩猎采集为生的部落,人口总数不超过1000人,全部居住在埃亚湖周围。在过去的几十年中,当地政府几次想对这些部落进行管理或是引导他们与其他文化融合,但是都没有成功。现在的做法是,对于重要的政治事件,政府会与部落交流;在其他的情况下,遵循哈扎比部落的传统,让他们以千年来一贯的生活方式生活。实际上,旅游业的发展、游客的到来对部落传统的冲击更大,但毕竟这已是不可逆转,至少哈扎比的小孩现在有了更多的受教育的机会。

Hadzabe Bushmen Tribe, near Lake Eyasi
Hadzabe Bushmen Tribe, near Lake Eyasi
Hadzabe Bushmen Tribe, near Lake Eyasi
Hadzabe Bushmen Tribe, near Lake Eyasi
Hadzabe Bushmen Tribe, near Lake Eyasi
Hadzabe Bushmen Tribe, near Lake Eyasi
Hadzabe Bushmen Tribe, near Lake Eyasi
Hadzabe Bushmen Tribe, near Lake Eyasi

我们在的时候正是中午,部落的族人大多坐在阴凉里。有的人在用土烟斗抽烟,有的人在加工打猎的工具。几个年轻人给我们演示了钻木取火和射箭的技能,也让我们尝试了一下。射箭的弓很硬,我射得还不错;但无论如何也点不着火。向导带领我们在部落里走了一圈,给我们指示了部落的人用来避雨的巨石。在部落的入口处有一棵大树。树干上挂满了猎物的头盖骨。在我们离开前,年轻人和小孩儿围成一圈,载歌载舞。这大概是他们一种庆祝的仪式。有兴趣的话,游客可以参加族人早晨的狩猎。部落的猎物以鸟类居多,偶尔能够打到狒狒(Baboons)这样大型的动物。

Hadzabe Bushmen Tribe, near Lake Eyasi
Hadzabe Bushmen Tribe, near Lake Eyasi
Hadzabe Bushmen Tribe, near Lake Eyasi
Hadzabe Bushmen Tribe, near Lake Eyasi

离开哈扎比部落的灌木林,我们下一个项目是拜访Datoga部落的家庭。这一家的院子离主路很近,所以我不知道他们是真正的原居部落,还是为了游客而仿设的。Datoga是一个一夫多妻的部落,家里所有的妻子都出来迎接我们。妻子中最小的一个看起来还是个孩子,显然对我们的来访并不是太习惯。Datoga部落的房子都很低矮。我们猫着腰走进了一间茅草房,这是家里加工储藏谷物的地方。我们观看了妻子们跪在地上研磨玉米的过程。在院落的另一侧,是家中融化金属,打制弓箭的地方。Datoga部落给哈扎比部落提供武器,用以换取哈扎比部落的猎物。他们也打制手镯,卖给来访的游客。导游告诉我们,Datoga部落使用的金属原料来自周围的村庄,我们也看到他们用来制作手镯的铜管。铜管已经是近代工业的产品,而部落的人把它们重新打造成箭弩,与原始部落的人交换,这让我有一种穿越时空的感觉。

A family of Datoga Tribe, near Lake Eyasi
A family of Datoga Tribe, near Lake Eyasi

我们在埃亚湖湖畔驻扎的帐篷旅馆是Tindiga Tented Camp。旅馆的前台就是饭厅。和前面两个相比,这家帐篷旅馆可简陋的多了,大概是因为来的人少。我们两点钟到达,到我们第二天出发也只有我们一家,不过旅馆的老板说前一天有大概二十多人住在这儿。

我们休息了一会儿,觉得还是让Justin带我们去周围转转。吉普车爬上附近的山丘。向东望,村边有很多的农田;向西,大约一两公里外就是埃亚湖。Justin说因为是雨季,那边的道路一定很泥泞,估计开不到湖边,那跑过去的意义就不大了。

Agriculture area near Lake Eyasi
Agriculture area near Lake Eyasi
Overlook Lake Eyasi
Overlook Lake Eyasi
Kids from the village followed us to the hill top, near Lake Eyasi
Kids from the village followed us to the hill top, near Lake Eyasi

Justin希望我们能看看普通坦桑尼亚人的生活,他把车开到山脚下叫Qaund’ded的村庄。村边的有一个小池塘,村里人用的水都要到这里来取。我们看到很多小孩儿拿着塑料桶到池塘里打水抬回家。大多数人对我给他们拍照并不介意,但是有一个女孩儿表示明显的不满,我只好把相机收了起来。

Villagers carrying water from a pond by the village, near Lake Eyasi
Villagers carrying water from a pond by the village, near Lake Eyasi
The water source of villages near Lake Eyasi
The water source of villages near Lake Eyasi
The girl was not happy about us taking pictures on them.
The girl was not happy about us taking pictures on them.

我们开车从村中穿过。Justin说这一片地区适合农作物生长,当地人劳作也很辛苦。不过从村子的房子来看,村民的生活应该是非常贫穷的。

A village near Lake Eyasi
A village near Lake Eyasi
A village near Lake Eyasi
A village near Lake Eyasi

回到帐篷旅馆,我们和Justin一起在前厅吃晚饭。说道中国和坦桑尼亚上个世纪的友好关系,旅馆的老板拿出手电筒、打火机等东西,告诉我们这都是中国货。我心里觉得这好像并不能说明两个国家早年间的那种“兄弟友谊”。不过确实因为那时的历史,坦桑尼亚人对中国还是非常认可的。我们又谈到了当地婚姻的风俗,子女的教育。Justin在这点上很传统。他很看不惯西方文化对坦桑尼亚学校系统的影响,觉得现在的孩子都被宠坏了。如果有可能,他会让他的女儿去允许体罚的学校!

第二天早晨,我被帐篷外的鸟鸣声叫醒。我提着相机在旅馆里走了一圈。初升的太阳很暖,又没有很刺眼。想不到在这么干热的地方有如此色彩斑斓的小鸟。我拍了几张鸟的照片,还比较满意。

Strange plant, Tindiga Tented Camp, near Lake Eyasi
Strange plant, Tindiga Tented Camp, near Lake Eyasi
Tindiga Tented Camp, near Lake Eyasi
Tindiga Tented Camp, near Lake Eyasi
Love birds, Tindiga Tented Camp, Near Lake Eyasi
Love birds, Tindiga Tented Camp, Near Lake Eyasi
Common Bulbul, Tindiga Tented Camp, Near Lake Eyasi
Common Bulbul, Tindiga Tented Camp, Near Lake Eyasi
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坦桑尼亚 – 东非大裂谷和马亚拉湖国家公园

2012.12.26我们离开塔兰吉雷国家公园的时间大约是早晨10点。在土路上开5公里回到主路,向阿鲁沙的方向开10公里左右,然后向左转上B144。这是一条贯穿坦桑尼亚北部的主要公路。这一段的公路笔直平坦。因为没有水源,道路两旁的地表很干旱,没有什么高大的树木,只有一些稀疏的矮灌木。塔兰吉雷到马亚拉湖的距离并不远。从这里我们已经可以远远看到马亚拉湖的南端。

From Tarangire to Lake Manyara
From Tarangire to Lake Manyara

大约一个小时后,我们开入马亚拉湖国家公园的范围。公园的东南方有一个小城镇,Mto wa Mbu。Justin带我们走近附近的一个村庄。穿过一片香蕉园,是几间村居和茅草房。其中一间草屋用来展示木雕和手工艺制品。一些工人正在雕刻打磨新的制品 – 这是一间制作木雕的作坊。

Banana field near Mto wa Mbu
Banana field near Mto wa Mbu
Village near Mto wa Mbu
Village near Mto wa Mbu

坦桑尼亚的传统木雕技艺精湛、创意独特,是世界闻名的手工艺品。来坦桑尼亚旅游的游客都要买上一两件。作坊里的人先给我们做了一个简单的介绍。大意是,他们是来自莫桑比克的马孔德部落,而他们制作木雕的灵感来源于日常生活和梦境。与他所讲的故事相比,他讲故事的方式更让我们印象深刻。他的声音平缓但是很有自信,故事衔接紧密,完全是一篇有说服力的销售讲演。虽然这里地方不大,讲解的人看来却是身经百战。他告诉我们用来制作木雕是乌木(Ebony)。乌木的断面是白色的外层包裹着坚硬的黑色内里,是十分珍贵的木材。不过在阿鲁沙的时候Achmed就告诉我们,不管卖家做什么,用砂纸打也好,将木头沉在水里也好,市面上的木雕都不是真正的乌木。我们在这里买了一些香蕉叶制作的挂画。

Locals carving the wood near Mto wa Mbu
Locals carving the wood near Mto wa Mbu

中午天气很热,连动物也不愿意出来活动。我们决定先去旅馆。从马亚拉湖国家公园大门口经过,公路陡然上行。

Graben and Half-Graben (from Wikipedia)
Graben and Half-Graben (from Wikipedia)
我们实际上正沿着著名的东非大裂谷的西壁攀升。与冲积风化而形成的河谷不同,裂谷在地球的板块运动中形成的。地壳的抬升和坳陷经常会产生平行的断层。这一段的东非大裂谷是半地堑。板块的一侧地势抬高600多米,形成裂谷的西壁;另一侧依然水平延伸。马亚拉湖就位于隆起断层的山脚下。

路边有几家纪念品商店。商店的门前挂着Tingatinga风格的绘画;商店里面是数以千计的木雕制品,从一两寸高的雕像,到实体大小的猴子、水牛,在货架上摆放得满满当当。Justin告诉我们,再向前走,买纪念品的机会就不多了。我们选了三件大约一尺左右高的人像雕塑,砍了40%的价格。即使按这个价格,这个商店的摆放的物品的价格也可以值到上百万元。一方面可见商品数量之多,另一方面应该是我们杀价杀得还不够。

Handcrafts and wood craving store near Lake Manyara.
Handcrafts and wood craving store near Lake Manyara.

吃过午饭,我们进驻到Kirurumu Manyara Lodge。这也是一家“豪华帐篷旅馆”。下了公路到旅馆要开一段挺长的土路。旅馆位于东非大裂谷的悬崖边,位置得天独厚。从旅馆的入口,石子铺路的小径逐渐分叉,延伸到各自的帐篷门口。整座帐篷就象是一间小木屋,被树木包围着。从帐篷口的平台上,可以看到马亚拉湖。

Kirurumu Manyara Lodge
Kirurumu Manyara Lodge
Overlook Lake Manyara National Park
Overlook Lake Manyara National Park

下午出发有点儿晚。4点钟,我们从裂谷的山坡下山。一进公园,燥热的天气似乎一下子被挡在门外,气温好像低了好几度。

Thunderstorm near Lake Manyara National Park
Thunderstorm near Lake Manyara National Park

因为水源充足,与塔兰吉雷国家公园不同,马亚拉湖国家公园的大部分为茂密的森林所覆盖。游览的路线就是在丛林中穿行。离公园的入口不远的东北角,有一个小池塘叫做“河马水塘”。我们远远地只看到一只河马伏在池塘里。Justin告诉我们要看河马,塞伦盖蒂公园有很多。行车路线的两侧有成群的狒狒,有些在树林里游走,有些懒洋洋地躺在草地上。因为树木茂密,马亚拉湖国家公园也是观赏鸟类的好地方。

Game drive in Lake Manyara National Park
Game drive in Lake Manyara National Park
Blue Monkey, Lake Manyara National Park
Blue Monkey, Lake Manyara National Park
Sausage trees, Lake Manyara National Park
Sausage trees, Lake Manyara National Park
Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, Lake Manyara National Park
Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, Lake Manyara National Park
Blue-ball monkey, Lake Manyara National Park
Blue-ball monkey, Lake Manyara National Park

马亚拉湖国家公园的游行路线是一个环形,与北面的森林地带不同,公园的南部更多的是因为湖水涨落冲积而成的草甸,更容易看到动物。

Lake Manyara National Park
Lake Manyara National Park
Dik-dik, Lake Manyara National Park
Dik-dik, Lake Manyara National Park
Lake Manyara National Park
Lake Manyara National Park
Lowland in the south end of Lake Manyara National Park
Lowland in the south end of Lake Manyara National Park

我们在公园里游览了大约两个多小时。在回旅馆的路上,我在大裂谷的崖边照了几张相。原来一直以为东非大裂谷是凹陷的低地,现在才看到它真正的模样。

Sunset over Lake Manyara
Sunset over Lake Manyara
Great Rift Valley
Great Rift Valley
Serengeti Beer, dinner at Kirurumu Manyara Lodge
Serengeti Beer, dinner at Kirurumu Manyara Lodge

第二天早晨,我六点钟起床。在餐厅的一侧有一处面向马亚拉湖的平台。这里有一个吧台,向前眺望,是欣赏湖景的绝佳所在。与前一天在塔兰吉雷国家公园的日出相似,天边布满了乌云,却只在天边裂口一道窄窄的狭缝。如果塔兰吉雷国家公园的日出可以用壮丽来形容;马亚拉湖的日出却是若隐若现。加上湖上的水天相接的雷雨,又是一种朦胧神秘的色彩。

Sunrise and thunderstorm over Lake Manyara
Sunrise and thunderstorm over Lake Manyara
Sunrise over Lake Manyara
Sunrise over Lake Manyara
Lake Manyara National Park Map
Lake Manyara National Park Map
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Big Sur

2013.7.5I drove California Highway 1 many times in the past, but I never stopped at Big Sur. During our stay in Carmel, we had a half-day trip to Big Sur and stopped by several most famous landmarks.

Garrapata Beach, Big Sur, CA
Garrapata Beach, Big Sur, CA
Bixby Bridge, Big Sur, CA
Bixby Bridge, Big Sur, CA
Bixby Bridge, Big Sur, CA
Bixby Bridge, Big Sur, CA
Pfeiffer Beach Blow Hole, Big Sur, CA
Pfeiffer Beach Blow Hole, Big Sur, CA
Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, Big Sur, CA
Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, Big Sur, CA
McWay Falls, Big Sur, CA
McWay Falls, Big Sur, CA
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