秘鲁 – 库斯科

2011.7.4库斯科位于秘鲁南部的安第斯山脉中,是古代印加帝国的首都。印加帝国13世纪发起于安第斯的山地中。在短短的二百年里,就控制了南美洲安第斯山脉以西的大部分地区,成为哥伦布发现新大陆以前美洲大陆上最大的国家。传说中库斯科始建于15世纪,城市的形状以美洲豹为模板。16世纪,佛朗西斯科·皮萨罗打败印加帝国以后,西班牙人破坏了库斯科城里大部分的印加古迹,取而代之以西班牙风格的建筑和天主教堂。

我们乘早晨的飞机从利马飞到库斯科。库斯科的海拔是3400米,也许是因为事先吃了防高原反应的药,我们并没有感到有什么不适。由于计划中我们在库斯科只呆这一天,一在El Dorado San Augustin Hotel 落下脚,我们就开始逛库斯科古城。

El Dorado San Augustin Hotel, Cusco
酒店的大厅。刚一坐下,服务员就端上Coca Tea,据说可以减轻高原反应的症状。

库斯科是秘鲁的旅游中心。打算走印加古道或是参观马丘比丘(Machu Picchu)的游客,一般都建议到库斯科来落落脚,以适应海拔;若是前往的的喀喀湖(Lake Titicaca)和亚马逊丛林,这里也是方便的中转站。库斯科的中心广场总是熙熙攘攘,有数不清的商店、餐馆、旅店和旅行社为一年一百五十万的游客提供服务。

库斯科中心广场所在的位置是当年印加帝国鼎盛时期炫耀武力的地方。现在广场上的教堂、拱廊和阳台都是西班牙风格的建筑,而建筑所用的石材多是来自被损毁的印加古迹。冒着黑烟的汽车驶过麦当劳的广告牌,不知哪里来的野狗和远来的背包客穿行于狭窄的小巷中。库斯科是一座不同文化冲突融合的城市。

Plaza de Armas, Cusco
库斯科的中心广场
Wooden Balconies on Plaza de Armas, Cusco
库斯科的中心广场上西班牙式的拱廊和阳台
An Alley in Cusco
广场附近的小巷
Women in Traditional Costumes
穿著传统服装的秘鲁妇女和游客合影赚取小费。如果再抱着一只小羊,吸引的游客就更多。
Iglesia de la Compañía in Plaza de Armas, Cusco
Iglesia de la Compañía

我们很快地在一家小店吃了比萨,然后就打车前往库斯科边的萨克萨瓦曼(Sacsayhuamán)。萨克萨瓦曼的发音很像“Sexy Woman”,可是它既不Sexy,也一点儿不女人 – 它是印加帝国时期库斯科的防御工事。据说印加人按照美洲豹的样子设计库斯科的时候,萨克萨瓦曼就是美洲豹的豹头,锯齿型的城墙是美洲豹的牙,而库斯科城则是豹身。整个的堡垒有三级城墙,由巨石堆砌而成,最大的石头有350吨重,严丝合缝,而且没有砂浆粘合。从下至上,这三级城墙分别由蛇,美洲豹和安第斯秃鹰三种动物来代表。它们是印加神话中的图腾,蛇代表精神(Spirit),智慧和过去;美洲豹代表勇气,力量和当前;而秃鹰则代表神和未来。在城墙的包围的山顶上,本来还有高塔,西班牙人攻陷库斯科以后,高塔被摧毁,城墙也被破坏,很多石头被运到城里用来修建教堂和其它建筑。

Sacsayhuamán Stone Walls
Panorama of Sacsayhuamán with the city of Cusco in the background
萨克萨瓦曼的全景。远处的城市就是库斯科。
Overlook Cusco from Sacsayhuamán
从萨克萨瓦曼山顶俯瞰库斯科的全貌。

除了防御工事,萨克萨瓦曼也被用来作为宗教祭典。这种用途一直延续到今天。我们参观萨克萨瓦曼的时候,那里正在准备发现马丘比丘一百周年的纪念仪式,游人倒不是很多。不过在我们要离开的时候,来了好几个旅游团,大概这是库斯科城市观光的最后一站。在萨克萨瓦曼的出口有很多当地的妇女牵着羊驼(Alpaca)和游客合影。大概是天天练习的缘故,从人到羊驼的表情都很好,要么出怪相,要么笑得特别自然。

Woman in traditional clothing with her Alpaca, Sacsayhuamán
Alpaca, Sacsayhuamán

下得山来,我们继续在库斯科城里闲逛。

La Catedral, Plaza de Armas, Cusco
库斯科广场上的大教堂
Plaza de Armas, Cusco
Arco Santa Clara, Cusco
通往汽车站的拱门
Girl on her way home, Cusco
这个女孩儿大概是在回家的路上被游客叫住拍照的。当地人经常把东西用毯子裹起来背在身后,只是不知道她手里捧的是什么。

因为是南半球的冬天,库斯科又在南回归线以内,所以天不到6点就黑了。依照TripAdvisor的推荐,我们挑了在 Chicha 吃晚饭。“Chicha”本身的意思是拉丁美洲的一种饮料。这里的环境好,菜式也很有档次。我们点的都是比较典型的秘鲁菜,也许有些改良,但还是很值得推荐。

Chicha, Cusco
Menestro, Chicha, Cusco
Menestro – 汤里包括了很多库斯科当地的蔬菜和果实。汤的绿色来自打碎的香菜叶。
Rocoto Relleno, Chicha, Cusco
Rocoto Relleno – 在辣椒中塞入剁碎的牛肉。这道菜很辣。
Anticuch, Chicha, Cusco
Anticuch – 烤牛心
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秘鲁 – 利马

2011.7.3本来飞机到达利马的时间就是夜里12点多,因为晚点,更是拖到了两点。事先从旅店定了出租车,要38美元。我想直接在机场租50索尔应该足够了,不到20美元。不过出发前看到的评论都说利马不安全,所以不敢冒险。机场离旅馆颇远,走到城里的时候,发现夜里两点居然还有一些人在街上走,看的出来都是一般的行人。可能是周末的原故吧,我们开始觉得利马也没有那么可怕。

我们住的旅馆是Radisson Hotel。位于Miraflores区的中心,位置很好。第二天早晨起来,天气阴沉得仿佛要下雨。听宾馆的服务员说,利马的天气总是这样。在旅店吃早餐,有一些没有见过的水果。长的叫Tumbo,圆的也许是Lulo。

Breakfast at Radisson Hotel

吃过早餐,我们在旅店门口打了车去市中心广场。司机还提议带我们浏览一下利马市容,包括泥砖(adobe)建筑遗址,Huaca Pucllana,和一段环境清幽的高尚住宅区。开到利马的主干道上,才看出有一点儿首都的样子。

Lima Street View
Lima Street View

利马的中心广场和大多数西班牙殖民地城市的风格一致,而且都叫做Plaza Mayor或是Plaza de Armas。一走进广场,就看到大教堂(La Catedral)的门前和街道两旁站满了人。一队队的身着鲜艳服装的年轻人载歌载舞地向教堂方向走过来,周围还有防暴警察在维持秩序。过不久几辆轿车由警车开道,停在教堂前,从车上下来的人被簇拥着走进了教堂。当天是星期日,应该是有很重要的人物来参加礼拜吧。因为这样,教堂也不允许参观了,但是游行和围观的人群并没有散去。照相的照相,休息的休息,还有些方队继续练舞。

Parade in Plaza Mayor, Lima
Parade in Plaza Mayor, Lima
Parade in Plaza Mayor, Lima

佛朗西斯科·皮萨罗(Francisco Pizarro)是西班牙的殖民者。他在1532年以欺骗的手段杀害了当时的印加国王,然后逐渐击败了印加帝国并建立了利马城作为秘鲁的首都。利马中心广场的建筑的墙壁多为鲜明的黄色,向外突出的封闭式阳台风格也很特别。

Plaza Mayor, Lima
La Catedral, Plaza Mayor, Lima

转过几个街区,就是圣·佛朗西斯科修道院(Monastery of San Francisco),也是皮萨罗所建。教堂的颜色也是以黄白为基调。其面积占了当时利马城区的八分之一,是美洲新大陆最大的建筑。教堂向大众开放,我们去的时候正在做礼拜。旁边的修道院需要买票参观,不允许照相。其中的图书馆藏有两万册原版的宗教书籍。而最有趣的应当是油画“最后的晚餐”,晚餐的主菜居然是几内亚猪(Guinea Pig)。几内亚猪是一种豚鼠,在其他国家常常被当作宠物。秘鲁人从四千年以前就开始饲养几内亚猪,主要用于是饮食和祭祀,是秘鲁文化的重要一员。

Monastery of San Francisco, Lima
Monastery of San Francisco, Lima

回来后本来想在Astrid y Gaston吃午饭,这是Trip Advisor上排名第一的利马餐馆,没想到星期日关门。于是出租司机带我们去了另一家海鲜饭馆,Alfresco。这里的环境很不错,吃饭的既有游客也有当地人。

Pisco Sour, Alfresco, Lima
秘鲁的全民饮料,Pisco Sour,(右边的)。这是用秘鲁产的白兰地(Pisco),混合柠檬汁、蛋清和糖而成的鸡尾酒。酸酸甜甜,其实度数不低。
Ceviche Samplers, Alfresco, Lima
四种不同Ceviche的拼盘。Ceviche是流行于中南美洲的一道凉菜,用生鱼加上桔汁或柠檬汁和其他香料腌制而成。各种不同的Ceviche是Alfresco的特色之一。中间的是甜薯和超大的玉米粒。
Sea Food Grill, Alfresco, Lima
烤海鲜。

中午大吃一顿,下午到利马的海边散步。Miraflores区是利马的商业区,商店、酒店很多,安全不是问题。从我们的旅馆走10分钟就可以到海边。利马的海岸几乎没有沙滩,岸边就是悬崖。悬崖边的公园是步行的好去处,既可以眺望海景,还可以跳伞、滑轮。

Miraflores Clifftops, Lima
利马Miraflores区的情人公园
Miraflores Clifftops, Lima
海边情人公园(Parque del Amor)的恋人雕塑
Miraflores Clifftops, Lima
利马Miraflores区的海岸线

沿海边再走一刻钟,可以走到Larcomar。这是建在悬崖上的购物城,有很多商店、餐馆,是利马最现代的地方。

Larcoma, Lima
Larcomar购物城

从Larcomar回来,天已经快黑了。我们继续向前走到Miraflores中心的Parque Kennedy。这是一片位于城市中央的绿地。公园的周围有很多餐馆和酒吧,Starbuck、麦当劳和肯德基都在其中。而公园里是当地人聚会的地方,到了周末就更是热闹,有卖小商品的集市,贩卖零食的摊位,还有教堂边的画展。公园中心的小舞池更是被围的里三层外三层。当地人在这里跳舞休闲,度过周末的夜晚。

Parque Kennedy, Lima
利马Miraflores区Parque Kennedy的餐馆
Parque Kennedy, Lima
教堂边的画展
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徐怀钰 vs. Lady Gaga

有人说徐怀钰十年前就在走Lady Gaga的路线了,从打扮到曲风还真有点儿神似。

再来一首

慢歌也很好听

不但小朋友爱听,大叔也喜欢。

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秘鲁 – 准备

除了南极,南美洲是我们唯一还未涉足的大陆。比较了巴西、智利、阿根廷和秘鲁,我们最终选择了秘鲁作为第一个造访的南美国家。这不仅是因为她有马丘比丘和纳斯卡地画这样世界闻名的古迹,更是因为她神秘而多样的文化和饮食。其128万平方公里的国土面积包括了海滨、沙漠、高原和热带雨林等多种自然地理环境。

因为要去亚马逊丛林和海拔3800米的高原,临行前我们拿了防止虐疾和高原反应的药,又注射了甲肝疫苗,这样我们就可以放心地享用当地的美食了。

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Xoom vs. iPad 2

Two prominent competing parties often create heated argument between their followers, Canon vs. Nikon, Barcelona vs. Real Madrid, but the battle between Android vs. iOS has the potential to surpass them all. As I happen to own both Xoom and iPad 2, arguably the two best tablets in the market from each side, I dare to jump in and give my views on these two products.

Typical tablet users use their devices to browse web, watch YouTube, read emails and play games. When choosing the product, the overall user experience is a more important factor than the hardware spec. This is what Apple wants people to know, and it is indeed a truth. So, I won’t compare the CPU, video chip or memory of these two devices, not even their cameras, ’cause I rarely use it.

Both devices I have are their wifi-only version. In terms of the physical appealingness, iPad 2 is clearly a winner. Needless to say, this is the philosophy of any Apple’s product. It is lighter, thiner and looks brighter. Anyone who ever holds a tablet for long time will agree that being 130g lighter makes huge difference.

iPad 2’s accessories are better too. Smart Cover is a magic. It perfectly attaches to the device with magnets. Once the cover closes, the display is turned off. It can be folded and used as a support to make iPad stand. It’s colorful and add no weight to the device. On the contrary, so far I haven’t found any good case for Xoom. The one I have makes device even more bulky and it easily attracts dusts, so I stopped using it. I figured the life cycle of these devices is no more than 2 or 3 years. The worst thing can have without a case is some scratches, which is not a big deal to me.

As to the system software, Xoom is the winner. In fact, Android 3.0 that was shipped originally with Xoom was not very stable, but the new 3.1 release corrected all that. Android has several nice features that iOS doesn’t support, such as Live Wallpaper and Widget. The one feature I like the most is the navigation buttons on the task bar at the bottom of the screen. Compared with iPad’s one-button design, a design that has been with Apple since its one-button mouse, three navigation buttons make the device naturally support multi-tasking. Going back and forth between different applications and within an application becomes much easier. In that sense, iPad 2 is just like a large-size iPod.

A more interesting topic is the Apps. This is what Apple often brags about. I would say iPad 2 wins in this category, but by not much. Basic Apps are available on both tablets and each system has their own unique Apps. While Android may have more Apps in total, iPad 2 has a lot of more choices of Apps that are specifically designed for tablets instead of phones that has a smaller display. That is also why overall iPad 2’s Apps are better looking and have better interface design. The advantage of iPad 2 is, because of the its overwhelming popularity, to reach more users, most developers will always provide iPad compatible Apps before working on the Android version.

Speaking of Apps, Apple is notorious on controlling from hardware to software. On iPhone and iPad, Apple even controls what you can run on these devices. Anything that may compete with its own software will be rejected by App Store. One example is XBMC. You have to jailbreak the iPad to install it. On the other hand, I see no reason to root my Xoom. Downloading some App packages, it can be customized as you wish. But, too bad, there is no XBMC on Xoom.

To many people, using Apple is not a choice but a religion. I am not an Apple fan, but I really wish Android can make some good-looking tablets.

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Alum Rock Park

Alum Rock Park offers easy walking trails, green scenery and beautiful view of Santa Clara valley. With plenty of picnic areas and only 15-minute drive from San Jose, it is an ideal place for family and friends activities.

Trail, Alum Rock Park
Overlook of San Jose, Alum Rock Park
Deer, Alum Rock Park
Panorama, Eagle Rock Overlook, Alum Rock Park

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尤卡坦,墨西哥 – 墨西哥人

不管居住在什么地方、收入多少,墨西哥人看起来总是那么快乐。和美国人或是中国人相比,他们把家庭和朋友看得更重。在城市里,你经常可以看到一大家子人在公园里聚会,几个朋友在咖啡馆聊天。事情似乎总是那么简单,节奏总是那么舒缓。生活也许并不是真的无忧无虑,但他们对将来好像不是那么担心。

墨西哥人对游客相当的友善。在加油站,在餐馆,他们愿意主动和你攀谈。和我们在埃及接触到的当地人不同 – 埃及人常常是为了卖给你东西;而墨西哥人是真正的好客。

Valladolid, Mexico
Valladolid, Mexico
Chichén Itzá, Mexico
Mérida, Mexico
Mérida, Mexico
Mérida, Mexico
Mérida, Mexico
Mérida, Mexico
Mérida, Mexico
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尤卡坦,墨西哥 – 自然

尤卡坦半岛没有地上河,湖泊也非常少,但是半岛上广泛分布的地下水为玛雅人提供了充足的饮用水资源。玛雅人主要通过天然井(cenote)来获取地下水,其中最著名的莫过于奇琴伊察的天然井。不过,天然井并不一定形成露天的湖泊,很多藏在地下的岩洞里。有些主题公园还提供旅游项目,带领游人到地下的河流或是湖泊中漫步或游泳。

After we decided not to see Chichén Itzá in the late afternoon, we visited Cenote Dzitnup near Valladolid. Walked down a flight of steep stone steps, this cenote is at the bottom of a cavern. Tree roots grow through rocks and hang above the water. Cenote water is often very clear and flow super slowly. Many people like to swim in the water.

Cenote Dzitnup
Cenote Dzitnup

We saved the best for the last and went to see flamingos at Celestún Wildlife Refuge on our last day of the trip. It’s at 60 miles west of Mérida. After we were out of city, the road became 2-lane highway and we could only see jungles along the road. We passed small cities and villages every once a while. Most of the cities share the same colonial style as Valladolid and Mérida. Unlike the bigger cities, many people, especial woman, were in their traditional costume.

It took us almost 2 hours to get to Celestún. Right after passing the bridge over the lagoon, boats were waiting for visitors by the shore. We shared the boat with another Chinese couple. From the bag that the man carried, I knew that both of us came here for the same reason, to photograph birds. Once the boat started moving, we took the camera out of the bag, switched to the long-zoom lens. The sound of ‘click’ never stopped throughout the ride.

The lagoon is 30-mile long but only half-a-mile wide. The water is feed by 80 cenotes underground. It’s very shallow and ideal for flamingos and other waterfowl species. After about 20-minute ride, we got to the north end of the lagoon. The flock contains thousands of flamingos here. Looking from afar, they made a pink line along the horizon. To protect their habitat, boat is not allowed to get too close to the birds. Luckily, it was barely in the reach of my 200mm lens. Other stops after watching flamingos were less interesting, but we could see other birds, such as pelicans and egrets, in much closer distance.

Celestún Wildlife Refuge
Celestún Wildlife Refuge
Celestún Wildlife Refuge
Celestún Wildlife Refuge
Celestún Wildlife Refuge
Celestún Wildlife Refuge
Celestún Wildlife Refuge
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