埃及 – 开罗

2010.10.5早上起来,我们觉得昨天在金字塔看得不够尽性,所以决定再去一次。吸取昨天的教训,我们七点就从旅馆出发,但是因为堵车,到八点半才到,不过还是要比那些旅游团的大巴要早。这一次我们从靠近狮身人面像的入口进门,那里只有一个几个人的团在参观。我们有近20分钟的时间独自体会斯芬克斯的庄严。

The Sphinx and the Great Pyramid
Valley Temple of Khafre in front of the Sphinx
哈夫拉河谷神庙(Valley Temple of Khafre)

可以遥望三个金字塔全景的地方比较远,我们没有走过去。金字塔周围有很多牵着骆驼的埃及人,我们也不能免俗和骆驼合了十几张影。

Camel Rides
Camel for Photo
哈夫拉金字塔脚下拉骆驼与游人合影的埃及人

胡夫金字塔的内部要到下午才开放,所以只好放弃。回到家我们看了几部有关金字塔的纪录片,其中提到胡夫金字塔的密室和暗道,以及金字塔建造的各种理论和传说。如果我们去埃及以前看了这些影片,(我们只看了《尼罗河上的惨案》:-)),也许我们会等到下午进到金字塔里面也说不定。我们接下来的计划是去开罗的伊斯兰区,其中的第一站是著名的哈力力市场。巧的是,拉我们去哈力力的居然是前一天带我们去吉萨高原的同一个司机。

哈力力市场南边马路的对面是爱资哈尔清真寺(al-Azhar Mosque)。它不但是开罗最古老的清真寺之一,也是穆斯林世界学习阿拉伯文学和伊斯兰教法典的中心。在我们参观的清真寺中,这是唯一的一个女性需要带头巾才允许进入的清真寺。相对来说,清真寺对男性的着装要求很低。

Entrance of Mosque of al-Azhar
爱资哈尔清真寺
Mosque of al-Azhar
爱资哈尔清真寺
Mosque of al-Azhar
爱资哈尔清真寺
Mosque of al-Azhar
爱资哈尔清真寺

著名的汗‧哈利利市场其实只有几条小街。街道两旁充斥着卖各种商品的小店,最常见的是衣服,地毯,铜器,香料以及纪念品。许多商店把货品堆在店门外,几乎把狭窄的街道完全堵住了。

Brass on Sale in Khan al-Khalili
汗‧哈利利市场的一角

穿过汗‧哈利利市场就是伊斯兰开罗法蒂玛(Fatimid)区。这里是世界文化遗产之一。漫步其中,就仿佛是在参观一座中世纪博物馆。清真寺比邻而建,到处是高耸的宣礼塔。这些清真寺大多初建于法蒂玛王朝,又于后代重建,其中不乏拆东墙补西墙的例子。清真寺中最令我印象深刻的是那些墙壁和窗户上雕刻精美花纹和镂空,加上阿拉伯的文字本身就很有装饰性,风格浑然一体。

Madrassa of Sultan Barquq, Islamic Cairo
伊斯兰开罗老城
Islamic Cairo
伊斯兰开罗老城
Islamic Cairo
伊斯兰开罗老城
Islamic Cairo
伊斯兰开罗老城
Islamic Cairo
伊斯兰开罗老城
Islamic Cairo
伊斯兰开罗老城
Islamic Cairo
伊斯兰开罗老城

参观完伊斯兰开罗,我们没有就近吃麦当劳,而是在爱资哈尔公园的Citadel View Restaurant吃了午餐。这实在是一个明智的决定,和公园周围清一色的灰色色调相比,这里就像一个小小的绿洲。餐馆从装潢到服务都相当到位,周围的风景也很漂亮。餐馆前方可以瞭望远处萨拉丁古堡上高耸的穆罕默德·阿里清真寺;后面可以俯视伊斯兰开罗的全景。

Bread at Citadel View Restaurant in Al-Azhar Park
Citadel View Restaurant,爱资哈尔公园
Citadel Overlook from Citadel View Restaurant in Al-Azhar Park
从爱资哈尔公园远望萨拉丁古堡
Islamic Cairo Panorama from Citadel View Restaurant in Al-Azhar Park
伊斯兰开罗的全景,爱资哈尔公园

当我们来到伊本·图伦清真寺(Ibn Tulun Mosque)时候,太阳已经西斜。只有一个旅游团在寺内参观,而且也很快就离开了。站在清真寺的内院,我仿佛感觉自己置身于星球大战的场景中。螺旋形的宣礼塔可以从外院走到。从塔的顶端可以遥望周围开罗的市区。

Mosque of Ibn Tulun
伊本·图伦清真寺的庭院和宣礼塔
City View from the Spiral Minaret at Mosque of Ibn Tulun
伊本·图伦清真寺边的城市建筑
Mosque of Ibn Tulun
伊本·图伦清真寺
Mosque of Ibn Tulun
伊本·图伦清真寺

很遗憾,我们没有去成萨拉丁古堡。明天我们就要离开开罗了。

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埃及 – 开罗

2010.10.4如果你是第一次到开罗,你想做的第一件事一定是,去看金字塔。

金字塔所在的地点叫吉萨高原。我们早上八点从酒店出发。在去吉萨高原的路上,趁出租车等红绿灯的功夫,一个身穿西装的人跳上我们的车。开始我们还以为他要拼车,谈了几句很快就明白,他是要向我们推销游金字塔的生意。这位老兄的英语说得相当不错,也非常的健谈,在拉生意的同时还给了我们介绍了不少当地的风俗和旅行的经验,其中包括如何拒绝像他这种随机拉客的人。他先把我们带到吉萨高原边一个小村子,我们这才想起来严辞拒绝,结果浪费了我们半个多小时的时间。也许我们的警惕性有点儿过高:讨好价,让他们带着、骑着骆驼转上一圈,也不失为一种选择。这种当地人牵着骆驼拉生意的在金字塔脚下到处都是,应该说人家的功夫做的更到家。我留意到他上车前和司机打了声招呼,如果你已经有了计划,不喜欢这样的随机应变,最好和司机事先说好,司机就不会让这些人上车了。

金字塔,吉萨高原,斯芬克斯,法老的墓穴,这些想起来就会令人激动的名字,现在就在我们的眼前。不知道为什么,当我们站在金字塔的脚下,它们反而失去了那种神秘感。但是金字塔的巨大和雄伟仍然让人不由自主地感到敬畏。想到它的历史甚至让我感觉一丝困惑,难道它们真的在这里矗立了五千年吗?五千年前,埃及人就已经可以如此准确地计划和建造这样规模的建筑,那是何等的智慧与雄心。

The Great Pyramid
金字塔

站在吉萨高原,我们居然一下子找不到狮身人面像在什么地方。直到我们忽然看到远处有一处圆形的石像 – 那是斯芬克斯后脑勺。

The Sphinx‘ back of the head
狮身人面像的背影
The Sphinx and Pyramid of Menkaure
狮身人面像和哈夫拉金字塔

我们中午时分离开金字塔。经过在旅馆的短暂休整,我们准备下午去参观埃及博物馆。这并不在我原来的计划之中,不过来埃及的游客大多会去博物馆,而且很多埃及的文物都被转移到博物馆中,应该也值得一游。我们在博物馆门口请了一位导游。这些导游都自称是Egyptologist(埃及学学者),实际上只是背下展品的介绍,照本宣科。不过埃及博物馆中展示了超过十二万件的文物,如果你对埃及历史和文化并不精通,一件件看下来,也找不到重点。导游会帮助你讲解其中最有价值的一些,有提纲挈领的作用。

The Egyptian Museum
埃及博物馆

从埃及博物馆出来,我们的下一站是开罗的老城区,Coptic Cairo。这一片城区是开罗建城的时候就有了,那时的埃及还主要是信仰基督教。这一片来的人不多,周围还是有警察的巡逻保护。悬空教堂(hanging church)在下午四点就停止售票了,所以我们没有去成。也许我们应该先来老城,再去参观博物馆,博物馆会一直开到六点(大概也是四点停止售票)。

Coptic Cairo
开罗的老城区,Coptic Cairo
Coptic Cairo
开罗的老城区,Coptic Cairo
Coptic Cairo
开罗的老城区,Coptic Cairo
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埃及 – 出发

2010.10.2~3回头来看,这次旅行的行程确实有点儿紧张 – 我们在16天内转乘了13次飞机。不过如果不是这样,我们就不可能踏上两个大洲的土地,不可能在沙漠中野营,在尼罗河边徜徉,在爱琴海的悬崖上赏味日出日落。除了兴奋,能够一连造访两个历史悠久的文明古国,我们更觉得幸运。

我们10月2日中午从旧金山乘坐汉莎和美联航联运的航班出发。幸好因为是国际航线,在10个小时的飞行途中,美联航“慷慨”的提供了一次晚餐和一次点心。我们在法兰克福转机要等5个小时。机场餐馆的午餐相当不错,价钱按欧元计算也还合理,可是在机场欧元和美元的汇率太高,居然要1.68美元兑1欧元,实际上官方的汇率还不到1.3。

Frankfurt Airport
法兰克福机场的午餐
Lunch at Frankfurt Airport
法兰克福机场的午餐
Lunch at Frankfurt Airport
法兰克福机场的午餐

从法兰克福到开罗的航班起飞就晚点了,飞到开罗上空,我们的飞机又盘旋了良久才降落。落地的时候已是当地时间星期日的晚上九点多。还没有离开机场,我们已经开始感受埃及人的“好客”了。机场内“官方”的服务处告诉我们去旅馆要150埃及镑,而实际上出租车的价格只要50镑。刚刚走出机场,就有一个人走上来说他可以带我们去旅馆。因为一下子看不到白色或黑色的出租车,就这样,初来乍到、语言不通,我们就上了一辆黑车。一路上,司机又想方设法多要了我们一点儿钱,不过因为已经是晚上十点,也还说得过去。不管怎么说,我们终于安全抵达酒店。

我们的酒店是Zamalek的Safir Hotel。Zamalek是尼罗河中的一个岛,很多国家的大使馆都在这个岛上,但是周围的环境还远称不上“高尚”。酒店的房间是包间的形式,一个包间有两个房间和一个公用的客厅。我们住的是其中一个小房间,隔壁没人。从房间看尼罗河的风景很不错。刚刚住下,我就抓紧时间照了几张照片。

Overlook the Nile River from the Hotel Room
尼罗河的夜景

旅馆露天游泳池的环境非常舒服。徐徐的河风从尼罗河吹过来,仿佛开罗的燥热和喧闹都被隔绝到另一个世界。每星期日的晚上,游泳池边还会演奏埃及的传统音乐。

Live Music in Safir Hotel at Zamalek
旅馆泳池边埃及传统音乐的表演
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Japan – Kyoto – The Heart of Japan

Famous for its refined cuisine, crafts and gardens, Kyoto is considered by many Japanese as where their spiritual hearts reside. The city is not as vigorous as Tokyo or Osaka, the pace is slower and people are dressed less fashionable, but hundreds years of cultural deposition soon reveal their attractiveness once you slow down, lay back and start enjoying the city.

What is more fun than walking around this city wearing the traditional costume in the perfect weather. We saw a lot of families and groups of girls in Kimono at every tourists attraction. Geisha and Maiko are not uncommon either.

We spent two and half days in Kyoto before leaving for Beijing. We had a wonderful time and loved everything we experienced in Japan. The cultures are somewhat close but sometimes totally different from China. We will definitely come back to visit more places in the future.

Cars in Stack
Cars in Stack
Kyoto Station
Kyoto Station
Girls wearing Kimono at Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社)
Girls wearing Kimono at Yasaka Shrine(八坂神社)
Stone-Paved Roads between Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社) and Kiyomizu Temple (清水寺)
Stone-Paved Roads between Yasaka Shrine(八坂神社)and Kiyomizu Temple(清水寺)
Geisha
Stores in Three-Year Slope (三年坂)
Two-Year Slope (二年坂)
Two-Year Slope(二年坂)
Monk in Kiyomizu Temple (清水寺)
Monk in Kiyomizu Temple(清水寺)
Nishiki Market (锦市场)
Nishiki Market(锦市场)
Nishiki Market (锦市场)9
Nishiki Market(锦市场)
Nishiki Market (锦市场)
Nishiki Market(锦市场)
Kamo River (鸭川)
Kamo River(鸭川)
Nijo Castle  (二条城)
Nijo Castle(二条城)
Nijo Castle  (二条城)
Nijo Castle(二条城)
Kyoto Tower
Kyoto Tower
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Japan – Hakone

We spent one day at Hakone on our way from Tokyo to Kyoto. Hakone is famous for its hot springs. At Hakone-Yumoto (箱根湯本), hotels are built on the hill along the river, most of them have public bath houses using water from hot springs and provide exquisite Japanese cuisine, normally meal and breakfast are included in the room price (一泊两食).

After three-day intensive walking in Tokyo, we decided to slow down and spent the first afternoon in Hakone-Yumoto. At night, we stayed at Hotel Okada. Its facility is relatively new, the service is good, and the food is delicious, good-looking, in small dishes but more than we can eat. We chose the Japanese style room (和室) and slept on the tatami. It’s a new and relaxing experience.

The second day, we took the popular round-trip route to see Hakone area. Along the road, on Lake Ashi (芦ノ湖), Hakone Ropeway and from Owakudani (大涌谷), there are a couple of spots we could see the famous Mt. Fuji. There was a surreal feeling, similar to when we visited Syndey Opera House, something we had seen so many times on calendars from our childhoods, now we stood next to it.

Stores in Hakone-Yumoto

Stores in Hakone-Yumoto (箱根湯本)
Stores in Hakone-Yumoto (箱根湯本)
Stores in Hakone-Yumoto (箱根湯本)
Stores in Hakone-Yumoto (箱根湯本)

A Japanese Garden in Hakone-Yumoto

A Japanese Garden in Hakone-Yumoto (箱根湯本)

A Japanese Style Room in Hotel Okada

A Japanese Style Room in Hotel Okada

Round-trip Route around Hakone

Round-trip Route around Hakone
Lake Ashi (芦ノ湖) and Mt. Fuji
Lake Ashi(芦ノ湖)and Mt. Fuji
Hakone Ropeway
Hakone Ropeway
Stores at Owakudani (大涌谷)
Black eggs – still white inside
Black eggs – still white inside.
Mt. Fuji from Owakudani (大涌谷)
Mt. Fuji from Owakudani(大涌谷)
Stream Vents in Owakudani (大涌谷)
Stream Vents in Owakudani(大涌谷)
Hakone Tozan Cablecar
Hakone Tozan Cablecar
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Japan – Tokyo – Lost in Translation

Japan is the first country we visit whose language we don’t understand. Luckily, almost all names of the places, subway stations, streets, stores and restaurants, are written in Chinese characters – Kanji (漢字). It makes our lives a lot of easier in this foreign city. We can instantly recognize and remember them, and most of time we can figure out what they mean. Had them written only in Japanese Characters or English, they would look all similar to us and would be much more difficult to remember.

Speaking is a different story. Although the characters are same as Chinese, the pronunciations are totally different. What is interesting is that our appearances are so easy to fit in, so people naturally start speaking Japanese to us, but we don’t know any sentence except “Excuse me” and “Thank you”; on the contrary, some westerns who live in Japan for many years and speak fluent Japanese, but they look so different so people always start talking to them in broken English. If we don’t have a map with us, asking direction is a big challenge; but once we write down the name in Kanji, then we have a common ground.

The Busiest Crossroad, from Starbucks in Shibuya (渋谷)
The busiest crossroad, from Starbucks in Shibuya(渋谷)
Adults in Suit Reading Anime
Adults in suit reading anime
Green Onion, $6 a bunch
Green onion, $6 a bunch
Tsukiji Fish Market (筑地市场)
Tsukiji fish market(筑地市场)
No Phone Call in the Subway
No phone call in the subway
Rainbow Bridge
Rainbow bridge
Ginza in the Rainy Night
Ginza(銀座)in the rainy night
Toyota showroom in Daiba (台場) - 草食男和森林女
Toyota showroom in Daiba(台場) – 草食男和森林女
Tokyo Tower
Tokyo Tower
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Japan – Tokyo – Culture Fusion

Tokyo is the most unique city in the world to showcase the fusion of east and west, tradition values and modern sensations. There is always a long line in front of Kabuki-za (歌舞伎座), people wash their hands before entering shrines and Statue of Hachiko (忠犬公像) is still a popular meeting place. Loyalty, honesty, discipline, perfectionism, these are still the values to be respected. On the other hand, the high rise in West Shinjuku (西新宿), the futuristic buildings in Daiba (台場), the nightlife in Kabukicho (歌舞伎町), the endless choices and customizations of consumer products and fashionable OL walking on the street all remind you that this is one of the most exciting cities in the world. While Kabuki, Tea Ceremony and Sumo are preserved, modern Japan has developed new cultural phenomenons, such as Anime, Cosplay and Video Games.

Although a lot of Japanese traditions are highly influenced by ancient China, they are better preserved and valued in Japan. The cultures are so rich and the country is relatively small. It makes Japan an ideal destination for tourists.

Sunrise in Ginza
Sunrise in Ginza
Yamaha Store in Ginza
Yamaha Ginza Store
 Kabuki-za (歌舞伎座)
Kabuki-za (歌舞伎座)
Ginza
Ginza
Ginza Window Display
Ginza Window Display
Hibiya Koen (日比谷公園)
Hibiya Koen (日比谷公園)
National Diet Building (国会議事堂)
National Diet Building (国会議事堂)
Nijubashi Bridge (皇居二重橋)
Nijubashi Bridge (皇居二重橋)
Imperial Palace (皇居)
Imperial Palace (皇居)
Statue of Hachiko (忠犬公像)
Statue of Hachiko (忠犬公像). Hachiko waited for his master at Shibuya subway station every day for 10 years after his master passed away.
Night Club for Women Only, Kabukicho (歌舞伎町)
Night Club for Women Only, Kabukicho (歌舞伎町)
East Shinjuku (東新宿)
East Shinjuku (東新宿)
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Buildin (都庁)
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building (都庁)
Daiba (台場) Skyline
Daiba (台場) Skyline
Fuji TV in Daiba (台場的富士电视台)
Fuji TV in Daiba (台場的富士电视台)
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Japan – Temples and Shrines

There are countless temples and shrines in Japan, especially in Kyoto. While temples are for Buddhists, shrines are the worship places for Japanese traditional Shinto (神道教).

Shinto Shrines are marked by its symbolical gate, Torii (鸟居). The most famous, also the most photographed, shrine is Fushimi Inari Taisha (伏見稲荷大社) in Kyoto. Because Inari is a god of business, companies and individuals built thousands of Toriis dedicated to Inari. These thousands of gates in red color lines up one after another along the trails from the bottom to the top of the mountain. The scenery is really one of kind. There is no one single god in Shinto, anything in nature can be worshiped. Shrines normally have a small pool in front of their gate. People must wash their hands and mouth before entering the shrine.

A lot of temples and shrines look very new because the paint seems to be applied recently. At first, I felt the new paints were conflicting with the ancient building style. I later learnt that rebuilding temples and shrines is a tradition in preserving their sacrality.

Meiji Shrine (明治神宫,东京)
The shrine in the raining day is more peaceful and divine.

Meiji Shrine (明治神宫,东京)
Meiji Shrine (明治神宫,东京)
Meiji Shrine (明治神宫,东京)
Meiji Shrine (明治神宫,东京)
Meiji Shrine (明治神宫,东京)

Higashi Honganji Temple (東本願寺,京都)

Higashi Honganji Temple (東本願寺,京都)
Higashi Honganji Temple (東本願寺,京都)

Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社,京都)

Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社,京都)
Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社,京都)
Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社,京都)
Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社,京都)
Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社,京都)

Kiyomizu Temple (清水寺,京都)
Yasaka Shrine, Kiyomizu Temple and the shopping district in between are popular tourist attractions. It’s golden week in Japan. People are everywhere.

Kiyomizu Temple (清水寺,京都)
Kiyomizu Temple (清水寺,京都)
Kiyomizu Temple (清水寺,京都)

Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社)
Two railway stops south of Kyoto Station. I got there before 7AM at morning to avoid the crowd.

Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社)
Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社)
Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社)
Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社)

Kinkaku-ji Temple (金閣寺)
Another popular tourist attraction. Too many people to have a place to take pictures.

Kinkaku-ji Temple (金閣寺)
Kinkaku-ji Temple (金閣寺)

Ryoan-ji Temple (竜安寺)
The temple was almost closed when we got there. I had no time to appreciate the “ultimate expression of Zen Buddhism”.

Ryoan-ji Temple (竜安寺)
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Japan – Beautiful Food

Most Japanese food taste quite light, (except noodles, they are very salty), and simple. A small portion of salted vegetables (咸菜) or Sashimi can be put on top of rice to make a dish. In fact, the rice itself is an ingredient. It is fresh and fragrant so the whole dish is still rich and flavorful.

If to name one characteristic about Japanese cuisine, it must be their artistic plating. The dishes look so beautiful that you want to cherish them instead of eating them. If the content of the dish is simple, the preparation and cleaning must be time consuming because it takes many dishes to make a dinner. It is said that this is because in the past the resources is relatively scarce so Japanese have to make the food appealing to appetite. But I think pursuing the attractive presentation to the extreme is embedded in Japanese’s blood. The product packaging is always artful, the streets are always tidy and organized, even people are always dressed fashionably.

东京商店里的小店

东京商店里的小店

かに道樂,银座八丁目

かに道樂,银座八丁目
かに道樂,银座八丁目
かに道樂,银座八丁目
かに道樂,银座八丁目

箱根Hotel Okada的晚餐料理

箱根Hotel Okada的晚餐料理
箱根Hotel Okada的晚餐料理
箱根Hotel Okada的晚餐料理
箱根Hotel Okada的晚餐料理
箱根Hotel Okada的晚餐料理

祗园小石,京都

祗园小石,京都
祗园小石,京都

いづ重寿司,京都

いづ重寿司,京都
いづ重寿司,京都
いづ重寿司,京都
いづ重寿司,京都
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