台南 – 古迹

从明末荷兰占领时期直到清末的两百五十年间,台南一直是台湾的政治中心。在清朝时,有“一府二鹿三艋舺”之称,一府的府城指的就是台南。(二鹿指的是鹿港。想不到鹿港小镇居然是当时台湾的第二大城市。)

荷据时期,明政府只在乎占领澎湖,而把台湾岛放给荷兰人占领。荷兰人在靠近海边的地方修建堡垒,称为“热兰遮城”,就是现在的安平古堡。古堡附近的安平树屋的历史要短的多。19世纪末作为仓库修建,后来逐步废弃,被榕树入侵,形成今天屋中有树,树中有屋的样子。

安平树屋,台南
安平树屋,台南
安平树屋,台南
安平树屋,台南

赤崁楼就在我们住处的对面,这里原为荷兰人在安平的东部修建的城堡,后来年久失修,大部分已经倒毁。现在的赤崁楼是清末的时候,在原来的残迹上加盖了海神庙、文昌阁等阁楼而形成的一片建筑。

赤坎楼,台南
赤坎楼,台南
赤坎楼,台南
赤坎楼,台南
赤坎楼,台南
赤坎楼,台南
赤坎楼,台南
赤坎楼,台南

郑成功占领台湾后,为教化民众、培养人才,开始修建孔庙。先是用来祭祀,后来开始讲学,为台湾儒学奠定了基础,所以又被称为“全台首学”。孔庙内的明伦堂、大成殿都是正大光明、气象庄严的建筑。孔庙周围绿树成荫、红墙围绕,也是居民休闲的场所。

孔廟,台南
入德之门,孔廟,台南
孔廟,台南
文昌阁,孔廟,台南
孔廟,台南
明伦堂,孔廟,台南
孔廟,台南
大成殿北侧的崇圣祠,孔廟,台南
孔廟,台南
大成殿内的匾额,孔廟,台南
孔庙,台南
红瓦、红墙是台南孔廟的标志

延平郡王祠本来是清初当地民众为纪念延平王郑成功修建的小庙,到清朝中后期才翻建成祠堂。但是现在的建筑是1963年重建的,与原来的祠堂和日据时期的神社风格完全不同。

延平郡王祠,台南
延平郡王祠,台南
延平郡王祠,台南
延平郡王祠,台南
延平郡王祠,台南
延平郡王祠,台南
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台南 – 城市

这次台湾之行相当仓促,临行前几天才开始计划。这才了解到台湾近代的历史是从台南开始,是台湾最早的城市。来自台湾的同事告诉我,台湾的南北风格完全不同,台北商业化、快节奏,而台南保留了更多传统的文化与风情。于是我们决定就把这次台湾之旅的行程定在台南和台北,体会一下这两座从慢到快、从传统到现代、风格迥异的城市。

从桃园机场下飞机是凌晨,乘高铁两个小时左右就到了台南。台湾高铁连接南北主要城市,每二十分钟就有车发出,人也不是很多,非常方便。不过除了台北站就在市内外,其它车站都离市区很远。到达台南站的时候已近中午。车站有免费巴士送乘客进城。

台南高鐵站
台南高鐵站
台南
从高鐵站到台南市的免费巴士,这里已接近市区。

我们所住的旅馆是“赤樓古巷”,它所处的位置极佳,就在赤坎楼对面,除了安平区,其它地方都可以走路到达。旅馆是由旧楼房改建的民居,只有几间客房,按照日式房间布置,地上铺着榻榻米,于台湾五月闷热的天气里倒也十分合拍。台南有不少这样由旧屋改建的民居。

赤樓古巷,台南
赤樓古巷,台南

沿着赤坎楼前的民族街向西一直到金华路,是一片台南市中心北面的旅游区。赤坎楼旁边就是小吃铺林立。走过西门圆环,还有水仙宫市场、神农老街都值得一逛。值得一提的是神农老街,这并不是那种由旧街道改造、满是商业气息的所谓老街。神农街保存了很多清朝到日据时期的老宅,又有古迹、庙宇穿插其中。店家的进驻并没有改变老宅的外部风貌,这是将内部翻新,加上巧思和艺术的品味,变成文艺气息浓厚的手工艺商铺或是咖啡店。

神農老街,台南
神農老街,台南
神農老街,台南
神農老街,台南
神農老街,台南
神農老街,台南
神農老街,台南
神農老街,台南

要数台南最好玩的饮食购物街区,还属民生路到新天地小西门之间国华路的二段。小吃店鳞次栉比,有些有名气的店铺牛气的很,一天只买几十客,或是只开张一个小时,反而吸引游客排起长队,比如下面这家位于正兴街上的冰淇淋店。

正興街,台南
正興街,台南

蓝晒图文创园区位于星光三越商城对面,是一片人气旺盛的商圈。原来“文创”的意思就是充满文艺小资范儿的商店或作坊,每一家小店都打造的精致用心。面积不大,只有两三条小街的样子,适合傍晚的时候闲逛。

藍晒圖文創園區,台南
藍晒圖文創園區,台南
藍晒圖文創園區,台南
藍晒圖文創園區,辅导客人打制首饰的小店,台南

台南市区另一片值得游览的地方是台湾国立文学馆和孔庙周围的地带。从日据时期就存在的林百货到南面纪念郑成功的延平郡王祠,除了小商铺,这里还有不少古迹、庙宇以及纪念馆和博物馆。

莿桐花巷是正面对孔庙的一条小巷,路名是府中街,除了小吃小店外,整条街两侧种有刺桐树,绿树茵茵。外面是闷热的夏天,走进来就凉爽许多,和台南舒缓的风格相和。

莿桐花巷,台南
莿桐花巷,台南
莿桐花巷,台南
莿桐花巷,台南
莿桐花巷,台南
莿桐花巷,台南

有人说台南是台湾的京都,从精神和文化上也许有些类似,从市容上还有不小的差距。台南的大街上最常见的交通工具就是机车,对于普通人出行非常方便;但是大概排放要求不严,机油味很大,这算是我对台南最大的不满。商店的招牌多为窄条竖立的样子,这和日本的商店非常类似,但多少都有些破旧。小吃摊的卫生,如果按照美国的标准大概是不能开业的,但是实际上并没有造成什么问题。家庭式的商户没有扩大经营规模的压力,几十年都是不变的样子。这是一种低成本、慢节奏的生活形态,对于习惯于大城市节奏的我们,转换一下角度,这何尝不是另一种生存的方式呢?

台南
典型的台南中西区的街道
台南
位于中西区的电影院,海报风格很独特,台南
安平区,台南
从安平区回望台南市区
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Paris – Tuileries and The Louvre

2014.11.5今天Openstack只有多半天的日程,而星期三卢浮宫一直开放到晚上9点半,正好适合下午去参观。

因为事先买了参观票,结果还要到拉德芳斯(La Défense)去取。其实11月是旅游的淡季,直接在展馆买票也不会有太长的队。趁中午午饭的时间,我乘地铁到拉德芳斯。前一天刚刚来过,晚上非常冷清,中午的时候还是相当热闹。经过一场秋雨,天气又好了起来,蓝天白云,非常暖和。

Grande Arche, La Défense, Paris
拉德芳斯的新凯旋门
Grande Arche, La Défense, Paris
拉德芳斯的新凯旋门

从旅馆到卢浮宫要穿过杜乐丽花园。杜乐丽花园是凯瑟琳·美第奇皇后(与修建卢森堡公园的玛丽亚·美第奇同属美第奇家族)于1564年下令兴建的。公园长约500米,西至协和广场,东邻卢浮宫;宽300米,位于塞纳河与里沃利大街(Rue de Rivoli)之间。

Jardin des Tuileries, Paris
杜乐丽花园
Jardin des Tuileries, Paris
杜乐丽花园

杜乐丽花园从东到西由一道宽阔的步道贯穿,两边各有一个池塘。靠近协和广场一侧的池塘呈八边形,叫Bassin octogonal。周围摆满了铁椅,天气好的时候总是被游人坐满。东侧的池塘呈圆形,除了位于中轴线上的较大,两侧还各有一个小池塘。步道两侧间或摆放着很多古典雕塑,又有露天博物馆之称。

Jardin des Tuileries and the Pavillon de Flore, Paris
杜乐丽花园和卢浮宫西南端的花廊(Pavillon de Flore)
Pavillon de Marsan and Jardin du Carrousel of Jardin des Tuileries, Paris
卢浮宫西北端的Pavillon de Marsan和位于杜乐丽花园和卢浮宫之间的Carrousel花园(Jardin du Carrousel)

Carrousel广场连接着杜乐丽花园和卢浮宫。这里原来是凯瑟琳·美第奇建造的杜乐丽宫,几经破坏和重建,杜乐丽宫最终于巴黎公社后被拆除。原来一直封闭的卢浮宫西面露出峥嵘,成为巴黎中轴线的起点。实际上,卢浮宫并不完全在中轴线上,而是有六度左右的偏差,所以有方案在讨论重建杜乐丽宫的可能性。不但可以恢复城市景观的完美对称,而且为卢浮宫庞大的展品提供更多的空间。

The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, Paris
小凯旋门(The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel)上部浮雕的细节

再向前走就是卢浮宫前的拿破仑庭院。这里周围的建筑是被称为“新卢浮宫”的部分,建于19世纪;而“旧卢浮宫”围绕方形中庭(Cour Carrée)的主体建筑从中世纪和文艺复兴时期就存在了。拿破仑庭院中的玻璃金字塔就是卢浮宫博物馆的入口,虽然再熟悉不过,亲身经历仍然让人惊奇不已,堪称是古典和现代艺术结合的最大胆尝试。

Cour Napoléon et pyramid (Napoleon courtyard and pyramid), Paris
卢浮宫拿破仑庭院和玻璃金字塔(Cour Napoléon et pyramid)
Cour Napoléon et pyramid (Napoleon courtyard and pyramid), Paris
卢浮宫拿破仑庭院和玻璃金字塔(Cour Napoléon et pyramid)
Look through the Louvre Pyramid in Palais du Louvre, Paris
玻璃金字塔是卢浮宫博物馆的入口

从玻璃金字塔进去走下扶梯,就进入了卢浮宫博物馆。作为世界上最著名的博物馆,其展品的丰富和珍贵无需赘言,《蒙娜丽莎》画像被观众里三层外三层地围住的景象也是天天出现,几个小时的时间只能是走马观花。只能说印象比较深刻的是Richelieu馆里古巴比伦的《汉谟拉比法典》石碑和亚述古城杜尔舍鲁金(Khorsabad)的遗迹;Sully馆中古埃及的文物和中世纪卢浮宫的城壕遗迹;Denon馆内的莫里恩厅(Salle Mollien)包括《自由引导人民》和《梅杜莎之筏》在内的大幅浪漫主义绘画作品。可惜的是,走到后来相机没电了,莫里恩厅里的绘画都拍不下来。

Statue of the Ancient Egyptian God Bes, Musée du Louvre, Paris
古埃及贝斯神(God Bes)的雕像
Human-headed winged bull from the palace of Sargon II of Assyria, Cour Khorsabad of Musée du Louvre, Paris
亚述王萨尔贡二世时期《带翅膀的牛身人面雕像》,三千年前雕刻的优雅与自信让人叹为观止。
Sigismondo Pandolfo Malatesta, by Piero della Francesca, Musée du Louvre, Paris
Sigismondo Pandolfo Malatesta, by Piero della Francesca
Four Seasons Painting by Giuseppe Arcimboldo, Musée du Louvre, Paris
Four Seasons Painting by Giuseppe Arcimboldo

参观完卢浮宫,由Carrousel广场北侧的拱门走出来,便如北京的皇城根儿,立刻从皇城的庄严转成市井的喧嚣。已经是晚上八、九点,这里还是人声鼎沸,路边的餐馆到没见到有特色的。我们还是回到旅馆附近,选择了一家越南风格菜式的餐馆,Au Coin des Gourmets。

Au Coin des Gourmets, Paris
Au Coin des Gourmets
Au Coin des Gourmets, Paris
Au Coin des Gourmets
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Paris – Montmartre

2014.11.4下午有OpenStack的会,上午还有游览的时间。从协和广场乘地铁12号线到Abbesses站下车,走一走就到了蒙马特高地(Montmartre)。蒙马特高地是位于巴黎市区北面约130米高的山地,从19世纪起就是艺术家们喜欢创作写生的地方。后来红磨坊开张、圣心教堂建成,蒙马特高地从磨坊风车的村庄摇身变成繁忙的都市,但其自由颓废、反传统的文化氛围却没有改变,一直吸引着各路艺术家在此出没聚集。

从Abbesses下了地铁,要走上长长的螺旋楼梯,大概就是上到了高地的半山腰。从地铁站出来,后面是一个小小的花园,里面有一面蓝色琉璃瓦装饰的高墙,似乎有几个游人在合影。我们旅游前的功课做的不到位,巴黎爱墙(Le mur des je t’aime)似乎非常有名,我们从未耳闻,在这里却不期相遇。“爱墙”的历史并不长,是2001年才建成的,整面墙上用250种文字311种字体写满了“我爱你”,自然是游览巴黎浪漫之都不可错过的一处名胜。

Le mur des je t'aime -  - 'I Love You' wall, Montmartre, Paris
爱墙(Le mur des je t’aime – – ‘I Love You’ wall),蒙马特高地

蒙马特的街道非常商业化,我们一路逛店购物,渐渐走到圣心教堂。圣心教堂建立的初心是意图实现法国大革命和巴黎公社后的宗教复兴。教堂从1873年表决通过,到1914年一战的时候建成。纯白色的建筑,又是位于山地的最高处,从教堂台阶的底端仰望,给人高山仰止的感觉。但多的是对平静和谐的赏味,少的是一份敬畏之心。不过这里也常有三三两两的盲流活动,做成捐款的样子骗钱偷窃,要远远躲开为好。

Sacré-Cœur, as seen from the base of the butte Montmartre, Paris
从蒙马特高地仰视圣心教堂

从教堂正面的台阶拾级而上,走到上层的平台,从这里回首,视野开阔,巴黎整座城市的风貌就在眼前展开。很多人坐在石阶上,一边听着街边艺人的演奏,一边远眺巴黎的市容。

Overlook paris from Sacré-Cœur's upper platform, Paris
从圣心教堂前的石阶平台远眺巴黎市容。
Sacré-Cœur, Paris
圣心教堂

圣心教堂内部面积很大,两侧和圣坛的后面都有小礼拜堂。参观时教堂里面正在做弥撒,只是远远的拍了一下全景。

The Chapel of Saint Vincent de Paul, Sacré-Cœur, Paris
圣德保罗(Saint Vincent de Paul)礼拜堂
The main dome, Sacré-Cœur, Paris
圣心教堂的圣坛和中央圆顶
The Chancel, Sacré-Cœur, Paris
正在进行弥撒的圣坛

我们从教堂左侧绕到后面,从那几个圆顶就可以看出来,圣心教堂是拜占庭式的建筑。终究是百年的历史,洁白的大理石也染上岁月的痕迹,有不少的黑斑。教堂的后面有个小花园,这里游人稀少。路的尽头有处长阶延伸到下面的街道,被称为是蒙马特的银河(Montmartre’s Milky Way)。我看过很多这道石阶在夜色灯影中的照片,是巴黎的美景之一。《Midnight in Paris》的男主人公Gil向Adriana讲述自己对巴黎不夜之城的迷恋,就是在这条小路拍摄的。

The rear view of Sacré-Cœur and the Campanile, Paris
圣心教堂的背面和钟楼
The Stairway on Rue de Chevalier de la Barre behind Sacré-Cœur, Paris
Rue de Chevalier de la Barre的石阶

沿着石砖铺地的小路向回走,离开圣心教堂只一个街区,就又恢复了蒙马特的商业氛围。一路上站满了为游人画像的画师,很多游客也愿意捧场。毕竟蒙马特高地是传说中很文艺的地方,走出过达利、莫奈、毕加索和梵高这样的画家。

Artists and tourists at Rue de Chevalier de la Barre near Sacré-Cœur, Montmartre, Paris
圣心教堂边为游客画像的画师

再向前走就是大名顶顶的小丘广场(Place du Tertre)。这个两三个篮球场大小的广场常被人称为蒙马特的心脏,现代艺术的圣地。20世纪初,几位著名的画家都曾在这里工作生活。现在,每天还有几十位画家在这里竖起画架和摊位,贩卖自己的作品。不过现在的小丘广场在我看来和一般的城市艺术节没有太大的不同,甚至有人说很多画作都不是摊位边站着的人画的,所以购买时还需谨慎。

Painters at Place du Tertre, Montmartre, Paris
小丘广场上的画家
Rue Norvins near Place du Tertre, Montmartre, Paris
小丘广场边的街道,Rue Norvins

蒙马特高地上好玩的地方还是很多,到处都是很有特色的酒馆、小店,转个弯儿又是达利的博物馆,是步行游览的天堂。最可爱的要数那些上山下山的长石阶,不管是铺满落叶或是积雪,都应该是非常浪漫的景致。

A restaurant sign on Rue Poulbot, Montmartre, Paris
Rue Poulbot街上的饭馆招牌
Restaurants at Montmartre, Paris
蒙马特高地一家小饭馆的门面
The Stairway on Rue Chappe viewed from Rue André Barsacq, Montmartre, Paris
Rue Chappe街的长石阶

因为下午要参加OpenStack的活动,我们在蒙马特只是抓紧时间,找了家饭馆吃了意大利面当午餐。红磨坊和几处名胜都没来的及去。

Restaurants at Montmartre, Paris
蒙马特高地街角上的餐馆

晚上开会回来,我们觉得正好可以去拉德芳斯(La Défense)看看。拉德芳斯是巴黎的商业新区,既提供了现代化商业活动的空间,又不破坏古城的传统风貌。新凯旋门位于凡尔赛宫、凯旋门和香榭丽舍大道延伸的中轴线上,古老和现代遥相呼应,是城市建设的典范。公共交通也很方便,从协和广场坐地铁一直到头就到了。这里主要是商业区,晚上没有安全问题。我们走上新凯旋门下高高的台阶,可惜眼前的广场上搭满了帐篷,不知道是否也是为节日准备的,照片上看起来没那么好看。

La Défense at night, Paris
拉德芳斯(La Défense)的夜景
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Los Cabos

2016.12.24~27Baja California,翻译成中文的意思是“下加利福尼亚”,是墨西哥与加州接壤的半岛。从地图上看,完全是加州向南的延伸,与墨西哥的主要领土只通过一条狭窄的区域相连。当然整个加利福尼亚当年曾是西班牙殖民地,1821年墨西哥独立后是墨西哥领土,分为Alta(上)和Baja(下)加利福尼亚。1848年,上加利福尼亚在美国墨西哥战争后成为美国的第31个州。

墨西哥的加利福尼亚半岛分南北两个州,我们去的Los Cabos位于半岛的最南端,主要包括两个城市,Cabo San Lucas、San José del Cabo。虽然比不上坎昆(Cancún)的风景、历史和旅游项目,但是离因为加州近,从湾区飞过去只用两个半小时,也是美国人常去的旅游景点。

从飞机场出来,如果不自己租车的话,只能乘出租,价格不菲。到我们住的旅馆要50美元,到略近一点儿的San José del Cabo也不会便宜多少。Los Cabos这一片旅游区的道路不复杂,路况也很好。本地人开车不如美国守规矩,但也不算出格儿,下次来可以考虑自驾。因为这里主要的产业就是面向美国人的旅游,美元可以流通,不用换成墨西哥比索。

沿着Los Cobos的海岸线有很多大酒店,全包(all-inclusive)的选择也不少。全包(all-inclusive)的酒店虽然方便,但是人多嘈杂,里面的餐馆质量其实都一般,因为已经付了钱又不想去外面吃,我们觉得不是很值得。所以这次我们特意挑选了一个靠近海边的小酒店,Casa Costa Azul,出了San José del Cabo市区不远。主人就住在旅馆里,旅馆的管理都是自己一家人来打理。旅馆就在沙滩旁边,在房间里就能看到大海、听到海浪的声音。出了房间就是沙滩,人也不多,我们每天早晚都在海边散步,是真正的度假的体验。

Casa Costa Azul, San José del Cabo
Casa Costa Azul, San José del Cabo

Casa Costa Azul旅馆的中间是一个小花园,主人每天都请人修理打扫。两层的白楼是吃饭的地方,早餐包括在房费里,午餐、晚餐要和老板娘当天预定,相比起来还是城里的饭馆更好。沙滩边是四层的旅馆,建得很漂亮,房间也很宽敞整洁。顶头的房间有阳台面向沙滩,但是从每个房间的阳台都可以看到大海。

Casa Costa Azul, San José del Cabo
Casa Costa Azul, San José del Cabo

Los Cabos已经位于北回归线以内,年末是旱季,完全不下雨。我们在的几天在当地人看来已经是很冷了,晚上坐在房间外也确实要披上夹衣,但还是比北加州暖和很多。即使早晨起来多云阴天,到中午的时候都会放晴,阳光灿烂无比。即使不出游,躺在沙滩边的躺椅或是吊床上,也是惬意的很。

Casa Costa Azul, San José del Cabo
Casa Costa Azul, San José del Cabo

这一段的海岸线很长,向东可以一直走到San José del Cabo的宾馆区,其实也就是三五公里,没有多远。半岛东面是加利福尼亚湾,这里大概是北美大陆西海岸不多的能看到日出的地方。

Beach near Costa Azul, San José del Cabo
Beach near Costa Azul, San José del Cabo
Beach near Costa Azul, San José del Cabo
Beach near Costa Azul, San José del Cabo

第二天中午准备去San José del Cabo。从旅馆到市中心大约10公里的距离,打车的话应该低于10美元。大概因为是圣诞节,叫的出租一直没到,旅馆老板亲自开车送了我们一趟。18世纪初,西班牙人开始在San José del Cabo附近定居建立传教所,几年后就被当地的印第安人焚毁。后来的教堂在美国墨西哥战争中曾被作为兵营,损毁严重。现在的教堂是1918年的风暴后重建的。

San José del Cabo市中心的广场叫Plaza Mijares,一侧是教堂,另一侧是高高飘扬的墨西哥国旗和一个纪念广场。美国墨西哥战争中,San José del Cabo一度被美国人占领,而墨西哥人进行了长达三个月的围城。这个广场就是以在战斗中牺牲的中尉Jose Antonio Mijares命名的。这次战斗在一定程度上让加利福尼亚半岛在战争后留在了墨西哥。

Church of San José del Cabo
Church of San José del Cabo

Cabo的旅游业从六、七十年代开始兴起,不过San José del Cabo还是保留了很多西班牙殖民时期的文化和传统。没有Cabo San Lucas的热闹喧哗,San José del Cabo的市中心不大,大约五、六个街区的样子,路边多是贩卖工艺品的小店和画廊,餐馆也不像Cabo San Lucas那么商业化,有不少质量都不错。

Jazmin's, San José del Cabo
Jazmin’s, San José del Cabo
Jazmin's, San José del Cabo
Jazmin’s, San José del Cabo

我们下午打车到海边的旅馆区和新市区的商店转了一圈,傍晚时做市内的公共汽车又回到老城。因为是圣诞节,很多商店画廊都不开门营业。我们在广场边的餐馆(The View)吃了晚饭。餐馆位于二层的露台上,可以一览教堂广场的全貌。

Christmas tree in Mijares Square, San José del Cabo
Christmas tree in Mijares Square, San José del Cabo

Cabo San Lucas距离San José del Cabo大约30公里,打车一般要20多美元。两座城市间有大巴车往来,途中好像没有站牌,当地人知道在什么地方等车,对于一般游客总有些不知所措。我们第三天中午去Cabo San Lucas,还是叫的出租车。

和San José del Cabo相比,Cabo San Lucas是个实实在在的party town,是度春假的年轻人享受沙滩和夜生活的好地方。城市的大街上还看不出来,和一般的墨西哥城市没什么区别,但是在环绕港口的一圈,从购物城到酒吧、餐馆,几乎完全是美国港口集市的样子。

Cabo San Lucas
Cabo San Lucas
Cabo San Lucas
Cabo San Lucas

Cabo San Lucas的一处名胜就是位于半岛顶端、伸入海中像象鼻山一样的礁石。我们沿着港口绕过去,一直走到路的尽头,才发现从这个方向走不到、也看不到拱门。这里出了港口的范围,没有了商业化的建筑,是本地人休闲的地方。

Cannery Beach, Cabo San Lucas
Cannery Beach, Cabo San Lucas

最后一天,我们中午启程,回到加州的San Jose。Los Cabos一行,没有紧张的行程,轻松愉快,乘飞机也只需两个半小时,是个短途休假充电的好选择。

Skull in Los Cabos Airport
Skull in Los Cabos Airport
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Paris – Place de la Concorde and Opéra

2014.11.3早晨早早起来,天空乌云密布,看来一场雨是难免了。顾不上吃早饭,我先去外面转上一圈。街道上还很安静,转角处就是圣母蒙召升天教堂(Église Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption)。教堂很小,门口放满鲜花和蜡烛,门开着,里面还没有人。小广场对面的时装店已是灯火通明,但显然还没有开门,灯也许是彻夜开着的。

Église Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption, Paris
圣母蒙召升天教堂(Église Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption)的门口
Shops near Place Maurice Barrès, Paris
教堂门口小广场(Place Maurice Barrès)对面的时装店

走过康朋街(Rue Cambon),就是杜乐丽花园协和广场。协和广场在法国大革命的时候叫做革命广场(Place de la Révolution),路易十六,拉瓦锡,丹东和罗伯斯庇尔都先后在这里被送上断头台。大革命后,这里被改名为协和广场,大概有和那段血腥历史划清界限的意思。广场中央是埃及总督赠送的方尖塔,后面还会提到。方尖塔的南北两侧各有一座喷泉。两座喷泉的形式相同,外围都是六尊手捧金鱼的雕像,金鱼喷出的水柱汇聚在喷泉中央两层的圆台上。圆台的下方各有四座坐像:北面的河神喷泉(La Fontaine des Fleuves)是象征河流与收获的神像;南面的海神喷泉(La Fontaine des Mers)是象征海洋和渔业的神像。喷泉的装饰精细,而阴沉的天气让镜头中雕刻的细节更加清晰。

La Fontaine des Fleuves at Place de la Concorde with Jardin des Tuileries in the background, Paris
协和广场上的河神喷泉和背景是杜乐丽花园的西门
La Fontaine des Mers, Place de la Concorde, Paris
协和广场上的海神喷泉中的坐像

从杜乐丽花园的一侧走回旅馆。杜乐丽花园中陈列着很多雕像,多为古典作品,但也有这样的现代雕塑。

Many Small Cubes by Sou Fujimoto in the Tuileries Garden, Paris
杜乐丽花园中日本雕塑家Sou Fujimoto的作品,Many Small Cubes

上午的时间是参观橘园美术馆(Musée de l’Orangerie)。橘园美术馆就在杜乐丽花园西南角,靠近塞纳河。大概因为不是周末,人不是很多,完全不用提前买票。

Musée de l'Orangerie, Paris
橘园美术馆

橘园美术馆面积不大,也比不上卢浮宫、奥赛博物馆的名气,但是藏品却是相当专精。其中最有名的肯定是莫奈的巨幅《睡莲》。《睡莲》共八幅,分展在两个展厅。这也是《Midnight in Paris》里,“the pedantic one”大肆炫耀的地方之一。展出《睡莲》的展厅不允许拍照,下面的图片来自Internet。

musc3a9e-de-le28099orangerie
橘园美术馆的《睡莲》(图片来自Internet)

橘园美术馆地下一层的展厅也有展出很多名作,其中不乏雷诺瓦、塞尚、毕加索、马蒂斯等大家的作品。

A painting by Paul Cézanne, Musée de l'Orangerie, Paris
塞尚的《Le Rocher Rouge》,橘园美术馆
A painting by Henri Matisse, Musée de l'Orangerie, Paris
马蒂斯的《Les Trois Sœurs》,橘园美术馆

走出橘园美术馆,更觉得秋风瑟瑟,寒意袭人。杜乐丽花园西门两侧各有一座飞马的雕像,但这只是复制品,原件保存在卢浮宫内。正对杜乐丽花园、位于协和广场中央的方尖塔是1831年埃及总督赠送给当时的法国国王路易·菲利普的礼物。这位埃及总督真是出手不凡,这座方尖塔的历史可以追溯到三千多年前的拉美西斯二世时期,原来就矗立于卢克索神庙门前,怪不得我们去卢克索神庙参观的时候,门口只剩下一座方尖塔。

The statue of Renommée riding Pegasus at the west entrance of the Tuileries Garden and the Luxor Obelisk at the Place de la Concorde, Paris
杜乐丽花园西门左侧的雕塑,《Renommée riding Pegasus》,和协和广场中央的方尖塔
Luxor Temple
卢克索神庙入口处独立的方尖塔
La Seine at la Marne by Nicolas Coustou at Tuileries Garden, Paris
塞纳河与马恩河(La Seine et la Marne),Nicolas Coustou,杜乐丽花园

中午在家门口的Ladurée吃了午餐,他家的大号马卡龙也很棒。

Macarons in Laduree at Rue Royale, Paris
皇家街(Rue Royale)上的Ladurée

在旅馆休息的时候,下了一阵雨。再出来的时候是下午三点多,我们准备向北走,去歌剧院的方向。圣母蒙召升天教堂前的小广场雨后积了一层水,反射着建筑的倒影,在黑白照片里看起来别有一番韵味。

Place Maurice Barrès in the early morning rain, Paris
雨后的教堂前小广场

皇家街的北端是玛德莲教堂(Église de la Madeleine)。教堂供奉的Mary Magdalene是圣经故事和流行文化中颇有故事性的人物。教堂的外观就像一座古罗马的神殿,内部雕梁画柱,有很多镀金的装饰,相当华丽。教堂有三个圆形的穹顶,顶部开有天窗。和其它教堂不同的是,玛德莲教堂没有马赛克花窗,自然采光只有这三个圆孔,所以颇为昏暗。

Interior of the Église de la Madeleine, Paris
玛德莲教堂的内饰
The statue by Charles Marochetti on the altar of the Église de la Madeleine, Paris
玛德莲教堂的圣台上,Mary Magdalene被天使托举着升天的雕像,是Charles Marochetti的作品
Reliefs on the bronze doors  of the Église de la Madeleine deplicting the Ten Commandments, Paris
玛德莲教堂的青铜大门上是讲述摩西十诫的浮雕,这一幅是拿单谴责大卫(Nathan Confronts David)的故事
Overlook Place de la Concorde through Rue Royale from L'église de la Madeleine, Paris
从玛德莲教堂的台阶上向南望,穿过皇家街,远处是协和广场的方尖塔和塞纳河另一侧的波旁宫(Palais Bourbon),还可以看到荣军院的金顶
Boulevard des Capucines, Claude Monet, 1873-74

“梧桐更兼细雨,到黄昏、点点滴滴。”

连接玛德莲教堂和歌剧院的嘉布遣大道(Boulevard des Capucines)是巴黎第二区和第九区的分界线。道路算不上宽阔,两侧是成排的法国梧桐和古式建筑里的现代商户。这里是巴黎的中心,嘉布遣大道也是巴黎核心的大道之一,莫奈有一副同名的印象派作品就是描绘这条大街的景象。

Boulevard des Capucines, Paris
嘉布遣大道

巴黎歌剧院(Palais Garnier)前有个小广场,是地铁路上交通汇聚的地方。因为周围是商业区,行人相当多。我只带了一个定焦的小相机,怎么也没法把歌剧院的正立面全部照下来。巴黎歌剧院是巴洛克式的建筑,自从建成就是世界上最好的歌剧院之一。因为《歌剧魅影》的情节就是在这里展开,也让巴黎歌剧院的名气更大。我们到的时候因为晚上有演出,没有开放参观,但是歌剧院的奢华从门厅就可见一斑,色彩鲜艳的红色布帏,闪闪发光的镀金装饰,布满绘画雕刻的巨柱拱顶,一派辉煌景象。

The façade of the Palais Garnier opera house, Paris
巴黎歌剧院的正立面
Statues at the eastern wall of the Palais Garnier opera house, Paris
巴黎歌剧院东立面的雕塑

绕过歌剧院,离老佛爷越来越近。路边一间巴黎典型的古典建筑里居然是一家苹果商店,而且门口的招牌旗子是纯黑色底上白色的苹果标志,看起来有一种诡异的感觉。

Street view near Galeries Lafayette, Paris
老佛爷百货商店旁的街道

老佛爷和春天百货的名气虽然大,其实和一般的大型百货店也没什么区别,但是里面拜占庭式的建筑风格和装潢确实绚丽夺目。到处可以听到看到说华语的顾客和导购服务。从外面有些阴冷的环境走进来,店里面人太多,又非常的闷热,让我们感觉很不舒服。我们只是在顶层的餐厅吃了一顿还可以入口的中餐。

Galeries Lafayette interior, Paris
老佛爷百货店(Galeries Lafayette)

出了老佛爷,雨终于下了起来,一路从旅馆里就带着的雨伞也终于派上了用场。穿过旺多姆广场(Place Vendôme)的时候,好几家酒店和中央的青铜柱都在修缮。巴黎的这些古典建筑在修缮时,都是用和建筑颜色图案相仿的布幔遮掩住,并不露出脚手架,不仔细看还不一定看得出来。昏黄的灯光反射在水中,把石板路映照得晶莹发亮;丝丝的细雨绵绵而落,而巴黎的风物也在秋雨中更加的细腻优雅。

Palais Garnier (Opéra) in the rain, Paris
雨中巴黎歌剧院的一角
Place Vendôme in the rain, Paris
雨中的旺多姆广场
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Seattle – Olympic National Park

We checked out from the hotel in the downtown and set off to Olympic Nation Park in the morning. We planned two full days for it, which we thought it would be enough, but as we went to the west end of the park, it’s almost 5-hour driving from the city. We actually spent a lot of time on the road.

We took I-5 south then turned to WA-16 all the way to the north through Kitsap Peninsula. Another option is to take the ferry to Bainbridge Island, the distance would be much shorter but the time required is about the same. While we were driving on the road until we got to Port Angeles, the majestic Mt. Rainier was always in our sight.

WA-16 became WA-3. At the end of WA-3, we were supposed to make a left turn to the Hood Canal Bridge, but we missed it. We then reached a hard 90-degree right turn. Through the morning fog, I noticed the tree-lined street on my left was so lovely. We stopped and found ourselves at Port Gamble. Port Gamble was found by William Talbot and his partners in 1850’s, they form the Puget Mill Company to ship the lumber from Oregon forest to California. They built the down and houses in Maine style, where their home state is.

We stopped by the little museum and walked around the streets. Sometimes, derailing from the planned route can result in a surprisingly wonderful experience. Our founding of Port Gamble is another proof.

Port Gamble, Washington
Port Gamble, Washington
Port Gamble, Washington
Port Gamble, Washington

It took us another 20 minutes to realize we made a wrong turn. We turned back and crossed the Hood Canal Bridge. The view over Hood Canal was nice and Mt. Rainier was at our back now. For the most part, both sides of the highway are covered by the dense jungles. As we closed to Port Angeles, we saw the Discovery Bay and Sequim Bay behind the woods. We arrived at Port Angeles at 1pm and we had the lunch at McDonald’s.

Last time we came to Olympic Nation Park, it’s 10 years ago in April. We tried to get to Hurricane Ridge but were stopped by snow. This time we were here at the height of summer in the early afternoon, even at 1-mile above the sea level, it’s very warm and the sun was harsh. The air was clear, we could see Victoria Island about 30 miles away. We had a hike along the Cirque Rim Trail and eventually got as far as to the Sunrise Point.

Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park, Washington
From Cirque Rim Trail, overlook Strait of Juan de Fuca and Victora at the Canadian side, Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park
Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park, Washington
Hiking on Cirque Rim Trail, Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park
Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park, Washington
Olympic Mountains, Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park

Returned to Port Angeles, we kept on driving to the west, the Pacifica Coast side of the park. Although the map might tell you that it only takes one and half hours, you should plan for longer time. The road, for the most part, running on the north of the park. There are several small branches that allow visitors to explore the valleys. We planned to do that on our way back, so we only made a brief stop at Lake Crescent.

Lake Crescent, Washington
Lake Crescent, Olympic National Park

We arrived in Forks at 5:30pm. We checked into Miller Tree Inn B&B. We are not Twilight movie fans, so before coming here, we had no idea that Forks is actually where the story took place in the novels. Since the novels became the best sellers and movies were release later, tourist traffic to this small town has been greatly multiplied, although the movies were mostly filmed in Oregon. Because the house of Miller Tree Inn bears some similarities to the house described in the novels, it’s also called “Cullen House”.

Forks, Washington
Miller Tree Inn B&B at Forks

My plan for the rest of the day was to photograph Rialto Beach‘s famous sea stacks at sunset. The sky looked very promising at Forks, but Forks is 15-mile away from the coast. As we got closer and closer to the beach, the fog got thicker. When we were actually on the spot, the beach was entirely shrouded in the gray and ominous fog. Sea stacks were bare to be seen. It’s no way I could get those picture with sea stacks immersed in the golden color, but the bad weather offered me another opportunity: How to capture the gloomy feeling? The stark difference in color between the white waves of the angry sea and dark cobbles on the beach was also inspiring. I ended up having some very interesting shots but very different from what I had expected.

Rialto Beach, Washington
Rialto Beach
Rialto Beach, Washington
Rialto Beach
Rialto Beach, Washington
Rialto Beach

As we were on our way back to the town after 7pm, the sky got clear again. Weather by the sea is totally unpredictable, especially in the summer. Maybe because Twilight fever has somewhat retreated now, Forks is a quiet town at night, almost no people on the street. We had the dinner at Blakeslees Bar and Grille.

We stayed in Ella’s Suite of Miller Tree Inn. Before the sunrise, we heard some strange noises coming from the surrounding ranch. The next day morning, as we were having breakfast at Miller Tree Inn, (the host cooks breakfast for all guests), the owner said some Elks coming down from the hill and one youth got stuck by the fence. What other creatures could come out from the forest and hills? It’s the Twilight Zone after all.

Forks, Washington
Forks
Forks, Washington
Forks

After playing the seek-and-hide game with the owner’s tabby cat for a bit, we checked out the B&B at 9am. The distance between Forks to Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center is 30 miles. It will take about an hour to get there because of the winding road, once you leave highway 101 in the park. Hoh Rain Forest is one of the largest temperate rainforests in America. Two short trails loop through the forest near the visitor center. The view of the rain forest was fascinating. I wish we could spend more time there.

Hoh Rain Forest, Olympic National Park, Washington
Hoh Rain Forest, Olympic National Park
Hoh Rain Forest, Olympic National Park, Washington
Hoh Rain Forest, Olympic National Park
Hoh Rain Forest, Olympic National Park, Washington
Hoh Rain Forest, Olympic National Park

It took us more than 5 hours to drive all the way back to the airport. We skipped all the interesting spots by the road and only made a brief stop at Port Angeles for lunch. Given the distance from the city, you should plan to stay two nights in order to explore the Pacific side of the Olympic National Park.

Hoh River, Olympic National Park, Washington
Hoh River, Olympic National Park
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Seattle – City

2016.8.13We have been to Seattle several times. This time, we just wanted to take one-day off and have an easy trip, spending one day at the city and the rest days at Olympic National Park. We arrived on Friday night and checked into Sheraton in the downtown. Many people walking on the downtown street at almost midnight. It’s pretty safe around here.

I had a morning walk to the Public Market. There were less tourists before 8am. Locals come to shop as well. After I came back with my wife at 10am, it’s so crowded in the public market, we could barely move.

Flowers in the Public Market, Seattle
Flowers in the Public Market.
Public Market, Seattle
Most people there were just watching this famous fish store. I wonder how many were actually buying.
First Starbucks, Seattle
There were probably around hundred people waiting outside of this first Starbucks cafe, which opened in 1971, at the other end of the Public Market.

All restaurants around Public Market were crowded. Anyone with some specialty had a long waiting line. We finally found a restaurant with open seats in a small alley, named Emmett Watson’s Oyster Bar. They intentionally made the restaurant a down-to-earth style. Their food was just OK.

Pike Place Chowder was the restaurant we planned to dine in, but the waiting line was still quite long even after we finish our lunch. We walked back to our hotel and felt having the appetite again. Pike Place Chowder has another site on the top floor of the shopping center just around the corner. We ordered their sampler with 4 different chowders. Probably because we were not hungry, we were not super impressed.

Pike Place Chowder, Seattle
Pike Place Chowder, Seattle

After having a short break at the hotel, we set off to explore the opposite side of the downtown. We walked along Pike St. over highway I-5 overpass. There are some trendy stores and apartment buildings in this area, and much less crowded.

We first stopped at Starbucks Reserve Roastery & Tasting Room around the corner between Pike St. and Melrose Ave. If you are a coffee lover, you got to be here. Space is huge, with cool decor and awesome atmosphere. The coffee and drink options are plenty and unique, which cannot be found in any other Starbucks stores. I had our best one and half hours in the city.

Starbucks Reserve Roastery & Tasting Room, Seattle
Starbucks Reserve Roastery & Tasting Room, Seattle

We had some walk around and had dinner at Terra Plata. I like their contemporary arrangement. Food is nice and looks good too. A little pricey though.

Terra Plata, Seattle
Terra Plata, Seattle

We walked back to the downtown center and spent some time in Barnes & Noble, then we continued walking down to the Public Market. Most stores are closed there. There are homeless people hanging around.

Public Market, Seattle
Public Market at night, Seattle
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Half Moon Bay Excursion

2016.9.4~5We haven’t had long trips for more than a year because of busy work schedule, instead, we have been doing short excursions to local attractions that we oversight before. During the last Labor Day weekend, we went to Half Moon Bay and stayed one night there.

Oceano Hotel and SpaWe checked into Oceano Hotel and Spa at 3pm. We fell in love with the hotel once we stepped into the lobby. The lavishly furnished lobby lounge has a high glass ceiling and furniture throughout the hotel retains the distressed look but in fact well maintained. Our room is on the third floor. It’s spacious and has a balcony with panoramic views of the harbor.

The hotel and Sam’s Chowder House that we went to a couple of months ago sit on the opposite side of the harbor. We had a short walk to the restaurant. We stopped at the Harbor Village at the back of the hotel but found that only a handful stores were open. On our way back, we bought a cup of chowder and a beer at Barbara’s Fishtrap right across the street. We took a rest and enjoyed the view on our balcony.

Pumpkin field by highway 1 near Half Moon BayOur activity before the dinner was going to see tide pool at Moss Beach, which is only two and a half miles to the north. The low tide is at 6:40pm. On our to the beach, we saw a beautiful pumpkin field by highway 1. Weren’t they matured too early well before the Thanksgiving?

Fitzgerald Marine Reserve was established by the State of California to protect flora and fauna around the Moss Beach. We parked our car at Lake Street, walked along the bluff trail to the Cypress Ave. Fitzgerald Marine Reserve is mostly covered by dense Cypress trees. Even without the tide pool, hiking in the forest and along the bluff is a nice experience.

Fitzgerald Marine Reserve
Sunset on Moss Beach

Going down two flights of stairs, we got to the beach. The tide pool on this side is a bit of small and we had to walk 30 feet over thick seaweeds. Somehow I had an unearthly feeling whiling plodding forward in the seaweeds by the beach. Sea anemones and hermit crabs were everywhere, several larger crabs could be spotted too, but didn’t see any starfish.

Sunset on Moss Beach
Sunset on Moss Beach
Sunset on Moss Beach
Sunset on Moss Beach

Wearing flip flops or wet boots is recommended. We didn’t. Standing on the slippery rocks, surrounded by seaweeds, we witnessed one of the clearest and complete sunset we’ve ever seen.

La Costanera RestaurantLa Costanera RestaurantDriving north for another 2 miles, we had our dinner at La Costanera. The location is perfect for this Peruvian restaurant. Their dishes have the Peruvian look but lack the charm and passion that real Peruvian food brings.

La Costanera is right next to the three-quarter-mile-long Montara Beach. It’s 10 o’clock after our dinner. We walked down to the beach. There were still two groups of people around their campfires under the cliff, but beach were all ours.

Half Moon Bay HarborHalf Moon Bay Harbor

The next morning, we get up early, before the crowd comes, we had a walk around the harbor. This is an advantage of living by the sea. The air was cool and soft. All we heard were seagulls cawing, seals barking and gannets diving into the water for fish.

We had the breakfast at Ketch Joanne. Their plates come with big portions.

After the big breakfast, it’s time to have some exercises. Driving north for 5 miles, only a couple of minutes north to the La Costanera restaurant, we park the car on the east side of highway 1 across Gray Whale Cove State Beach. Montara Mountain, positioned between Montara and Pacifica, offers various options of hiking trails, from easy ones along the coastal lines to more challenging one to reach the mountain summit.

The trail rose quickly to about 200 ft onto the coastal ridge. We took the easy Gray Whale Cove Trail to the south. The trail is almost flat and winding along the coast. There are a series of bluffs providing breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean. We turned back at Montara Mountain Peak Trail junction, climb the Montara Mountain for half a mile and eventually descended to Gray Whale Cove State Beach through a steep slope of the mountain.

Montara Beach
Montara Beach
Overlook Gray Whale Cove State Beach from Montara Mountain
Overlook Gray Whale Cove State Beach from Montara Mountain

We checked out from the hotel at noon. At the summit on Route 92, we turned right to Skyline Blvd. This is the first time that we drove on this road. While running along the ridge of the mountain, at this section, I saw no vista point that allows us to have a clear view of the San Francisco Bay. The annual Kings Mountain Art Fair was holding among the redwoods every Labor Day weekend. It’s some place we can visit next time.

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